Peggie - In September we are taking our Catalina 320 from Buffalo,NY to Florida. Are there any precautions I need to take to make the change from fresh water to salt water? Thanks Chuck
MSD and salt water
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Some suggestions...
I would replumbing the intake line to tee into the head sink drain line instead of the existing thru-hull. This will allow you to flush all the salt water out of the whole system before it can sit, stagnate and stink, by simply filling the sink with water after you've closed the thru-hull and flushing the toilet...because the thru-hull is closed, the toilet will pull the water from the sink...flushing out the whole system--head intake, pump, channel in the rim of the bowl and the discharge line. Pouring water down the bowl only flushes out the discharge...it's stagnant sea water trapped in the intake that creates odors. If you plan to cruise the islands and/or spend time offshore beyond the "3 mile limit" (6-12 miles in parts of the Gulf off FL), you'll prob'ly want to put a y-valve in the head discharge line that will allow you to flush directly overboard at sea. If you're moving the boat permanently, unless you're moving it to the Keys, I'd also consider adding a Lectra/San. The Keys are the only "no discharge" waters (except for a few small harbors) on the whole east coast south of RI...and Destin Harbor the only other NDZ in the whole Gulf. The discharge of treated wasted from a CG certified Type I MSD is legal everywhere else. Why carry sewage aboard and have to deal with tank maintenance, finding a working pumpout etc if you can send each flush overboard legally AND with NO harm to the environment? As for the toilet itself, without knowing the age of your boat, "original" isn't much help in knowing how old it is...or even for certain what make/model it is. You'll have a much longer sailing season in FL than you've had in NY, which means the toilet will get a lot more use...so depending on its age and make, it may be wise to replace it...or--depending on how long it's been since it was serviced and properly lubricated (if ever), at least do that much. Salt water is a lot harder on toilets than fresh, because salt is gritty which means it can scratch the inside of the pump cylinder and wear out the seals and o-rings much faster if the pump isn't kept very well lubricated as PREVENTIVE maintenance. Or, if you've been looking for an excuse to upgrade to the "pushbutton convenience" of an electric toilet, you'll have an excellent reason to replace your raw water manual with an electric toilet designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water.
I would replumbing the intake line to tee into the head sink drain line instead of the existing thru-hull. This will allow you to flush all the salt water out of the whole system before it can sit, stagnate and stink, by simply filling the sink with water after you've closed the thru-hull and flushing the toilet...because the thru-hull is closed, the toilet will pull the water from the sink...flushing out the whole system--head intake, pump, channel in the rim of the bowl and the discharge line. Pouring water down the bowl only flushes out the discharge...it's stagnant sea water trapped in the intake that creates odors. If you plan to cruise the islands and/or spend time offshore beyond the "3 mile limit" (6-12 miles in parts of the Gulf off FL), you'll prob'ly want to put a y-valve in the head discharge line that will allow you to flush directly overboard at sea. If you're moving the boat permanently, unless you're moving it to the Keys, I'd also consider adding a Lectra/San. The Keys are the only "no discharge" waters (except for a few small harbors) on the whole east coast south of RI...and Destin Harbor the only other NDZ in the whole Gulf. The discharge of treated wasted from a CG certified Type I MSD is legal everywhere else. Why carry sewage aboard and have to deal with tank maintenance, finding a working pumpout etc if you can send each flush overboard legally AND with NO harm to the environment? As for the toilet itself, without knowing the age of your boat, "original" isn't much help in knowing how old it is...or even for certain what make/model it is. You'll have a much longer sailing season in FL than you've had in NY, which means the toilet will get a lot more use...so depending on its age and make, it may be wise to replace it...or--depending on how long it's been since it was serviced and properly lubricated (if ever), at least do that much. Salt water is a lot harder on toilets than fresh, because salt is gritty which means it can scratch the inside of the pump cylinder and wear out the seals and o-rings much faster if the pump isn't kept very well lubricated as PREVENTIVE maintenance. Or, if you've been looking for an excuse to upgrade to the "pushbutton convenience" of an electric toilet, you'll have an excellent reason to replace your raw water manual with an electric toilet designed to use onboard pressurized fresh water.
Peggy, thanks for this info
I had previously just poured a kettle full of fresh water into the bowl... My holding tank system is 99% complete (which went flawlessly thanks to all of the info on this board!) so I will T into the sink drain as well to allow for fresh water rinses... Do I need a valve to shut off the line from sink drain to head intake when not in use? Thanks David
I had previously just poured a kettle full of fresh water into the bowl... My holding tank system is 99% complete (which went flawlessly thanks to all of the info on this board!) so I will T into the sink drain as well to allow for fresh water rinses... Do I need a valve to shut off the line from sink drain to head intake when not in use? Thanks David
You do need...
Some way to close off the sink drain while flushing the toilet...otherwise, the toilet will pull air through the sink, preventing the pump from priming. That can be just a plug in the sink...or a shutoff valve in the drain line. Go with the one that's easiest, 'cuz since it's very unlikely that the sink and the toilet will both be in use at the same time, anything you do that's easily accessible isn't like to be an inconvenience.
Some way to close off the sink drain while flushing the toilet...otherwise, the toilet will pull air through the sink, preventing the pump from priming. That can be just a plug in the sink...or a shutoff valve in the drain line. Go with the one that's easiest, 'cuz since it's very unlikely that the sink and the toilet will both be in use at the same time, anything you do that's easily accessible isn't like to be an inconvenience.
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