MPPT vs. Shunting Solar Controller

Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
I get asked quite a bit to describe the difference between an MPPT (multi-point power tracking) solar controller and non MPPT controllers.

Basically all 12V nominal solar panels run voltages of 16 - 18V+. With a PWM or shunting controller the excess voltage goes to waste when the panel voltage is stepped down to a safe charging voltage. An MPPT controller can convert this excess voltage to current so there is less waste and more efficient charging..

To show how this works I decided to use my bench top power supply to simulate a solar panel yet provide consistency in output for an A/B scenario. I set the power supply at 17.4V and 4A or the rough equivalent to a 70W solar panel. I then fed the power supply through a switch to choose which solar controller got the power. I used a battery bank that had been depleted to "bulk" for the 4-5A of current it would see.

The video below shows the results. Basically the MPPT controller had an output of roughly 22% - 24% more than the simple shunting controller. There is no magic just an A/B switch and two different solar controllers...

Hope this helps give some clarity...

 
Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
Nice explanation. Technology has advanced further for home solar applications.
I used a product from SolarEdge that is not only MPPT, but also allows for multiple panels to be connected in series while keeping the voltage relative constant ~300vDC. These controllers also report individual signature performance for it's connected panel through the same DC buss. This allows for comprehensive performance monitoring of the array.
My system is 5KV which I can monitor from any internet connection.
The power company is now cutting me checks. I can also sell solar credits on an open market, (like a stock market). In Maryland these credits are calculated, not net metered (as long as your system is under 20KV). I will receive ~7 credits per year, each credit is worth ~$230. The system should pay for it's self in around 5yrs. I did the install, except the AC line tap.
 

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Sumner

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Jan 31, 2009
5,254
Macgregor & Endeavour 26S and 37 Utah's Canyon Country
MS that is a great video, thanks. Do you also now have that on your site and if the question comes up some other place do you mind if we link to it giving you credit?

Mike if you have the room for more panels then a PWM controller might save you some money that can then go into more panels. If limited in room or you have higher demands then I feel the extra spent on the MPPT is well worth it especially if you expense it over the life of one of these controllers. We use them on both boats and also have about as large of an array as possible on both boats.

Sum

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Jul 1, 2009
221
Catalina 310 Sydney-Pittwater
Basically all 12V nominal solar panels run voltages of 16 - 18V+. With a PWM or shunting controller the excess voltage goes to waste when the panel voltage is stepped down to a safe charging voltage”.


Could someone, please, put my non-electrical mind at rest. I am installing a 10 Watt solar panel for the purpose of trickle charging/topping up only.
As I have a bank of 2 sealed 12V 150A batteries, I understand, that I don’t need a regulator (reason I purchased this panel). However, following MS’ article, I notice that one of the purposes of the regulators’/shunts’ functions are to maintain a certain voltage.
When I measured my panel after purchase in about 27C sunlight, it produced slightly over 20V. What would be the ‘safe charging’ voltage be for my bank? I notice that my alternator charges at about 14.5V. Do I need a regulator after all?
These panels are also sold as being portable, ie. to be just clipped on to the batteries and lying on the cockpit seat.
 
Jan 4, 2010
1,037
Farr 30 San Francisco
Those panels are going to put about 800mA into your battery on a good sunny day 10W/16V.
Your battery bank is 300Ahr so that is less than C/300 half the time and C/infinite half the time.

I think that falls with a safe limit, but you might want to check the battery makers web site for advice. A simple PWM would fix even that problem.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
A report by Morningstar, comparing MPPT and PWM (not to be confused with plain shunt type) controllers:

http://www.morningstarcorp.com/en/support/item.cfm?ItemId=426

The benefits of MPPT increase with larger solar systems, with smaller systems, not so much.
That applies to the Morningstar controllers. The Genasun controllers are specifically designed for arrays below 150W. The largest MPPT controller they make is the GV-10 (in the video) which maxes out at 150W..... I have many installed on 30W to 80W panels all getting a decent boost. In the "real world" these boosts average closer to 5-15% because panel voltage will not always be at max.....
 
Apr 22, 2011
865
Hunter 27 Pecan Grove, Oriental, NC
Albanach, as JohnShannon stated, your 10w panel does not need a controller for your 300 AH batteries. Although you might measure 18 volts at the panel, your batteries will never see that. The batteries act as voltage controllers themselves and bring the panel voltage to safe levels.

Try this test: Hook the panel up to your fully charged batteries while in full sun. Check the battery voltage with a multimeter. What you are looking for is a good float voltage for your type of batteries. If you see around 13.5 volts, that is ideal... anything over 14 volts is too high and you should consider a controller. Anything less than 13 volts means you are undercharging the batteries and they will need additional charging more frequently.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Albanach, as JohnShannon stated, your 10w panel does not need a controller for your 300 AH batteries. Although you might measure 18 volts at the panel, your batteries will never see that. The batteries act as voltage controllers themselves and bring the panel voltage to safe levels.

Try this test: Hook the panel up to your fully charged batteries while in full sun. Check the battery voltage with a multimeter. What you are looking for is a good float voltage for your type of batteries. If you see around 13.5 volts, that is ideal... anything over 14 volts is too high and you should consider a controller. Anything less than 13 volts means you are undercharging the batteries and they will need additional charging more frequently.
As a point of reference I have two group 27 batteries on my bench right now, the same batts in the video, and at 100% full and 14.4 volts they are accepting about 0.2A to maintain 14.4V... With .85A available there is still a possibility of over charging them, if they ever get full with no loads...
 
Jan 4, 2010
1,037
Farr 30 San Francisco
I goofed on the math, full sun with 10W at Vmpp of 17V is a current of 588mA so maybe 600mA at battery voltages.

Trojan site shows charge profiles. The profiles show 16.5V and 1 to 2% trickle current (3-6A) in your case. So your 10W panel would be under that, and should be permissible.

Do you have any house loads? Gas detector?
What do the batteries cost?
What does this cost? Sunforce solar charge controller 7A at Home Depot for $17?
Not marine rated yaddah yaddah


Maine has the data, however of 6 years good results with his setup, I am trying to make my setup look more like his setup.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
What is the price difference in the two types of controllers?
The Flex Charge is about $60.00 and the Genasun ranges from about $124.00 for up to 50W panel to $167.00 for a 150W panel.

This however is a small part of the story. For a more fair comparison you'd need to compare a PWM controller with three stages to the MPPT controller. The price difference becomes even smaller.

A shunting controller is not one I would recommend.

The Flex Charge controllers are inexpensive and among the best of the shunting controllers but still not good for many reasons. Flex Charge does makes very reliable products. That being said, your total time to "full charge" will be compromised with this type of controller. I would still suggest a PWM or MPPT controller.

Please be careful with shunting controllers. These devices begin switching on/off once the bank hits absorption voltage and they can really cut your "time to full" by days, not minutes.

In the case of some of the el-cheapo Sunforce controllers, often sold at West Marine, they switch OFF at around 14.2 volts and they do not switch back on again until the battery bank voltage falls back to 13.0V. This may be fine for off grid where you often have a load that sucks the bank back to 13.0V very quickly, but, with a boat on a mooring, with no loads, it can take a healthy bank a LONG time to drop the surface charge back to 13.0V.

I have some customers banks of AGM & deep cycle wet cells that will hang out at over 13.0V for over an hour. That is an hour of lost charging time waiting for a cheap shunting controller to switch back on and provide maybe 60 seconds of charging before raising the bank to 14.2V and then shutting off again. Sometimes these cheap controllers will never restore the bank to full, no matter how big the array, in the time you need them to.

Below is a video of one of the "better quality" shunting controllers, a Flex Charge PV-7. It shuts OFF at about 14.4v and does not come back on until the bank voltage has dropped to about 13.6V. The first video is showing the "current" but you can see it turn on and off. I applied a load of 0.1A just so it would go to -0.1A when OFF for the video. When you get close to full your OFF time can be as much as 10-20+ times longer than your on time with some cheap controllers.

This second video is showing the voltage behavior.

In this case the "ON" time is about 5-6 seconds and the OFF time close to a minute to get the bank back down to 13.6v before it can turn back on again. This bank still had 20 Ah's to go and it would take 5-7+ days for this bank to eventually get "full" from an 80-85% state of charge with 5-6 seconds on and 60 seconds off, remove the 0.1A load and it takes this even longer..

It should be noted that before I took these videos the banks were charged to full using a shore charger until they were accepting less than .5% of C (capacity) at 13.6 volts. At this point, after being on float for two days, the battery monitor was re-calibrated manually to full. I then applied loads and removed approx 30 Ah's from the bank. I then monitored the time it took to replace the 30Ah's removed.

Contrast that Flex Charge controller, or a Sunforce, with a quality PWM or MPPT like the Genasun's and the difference in the last 5-15% of charge, and the time it takes, can be quite dramatic.

Last summer I replaced both a Sunforce and a Flex Charge shunting controller with Genasun MPPT controllers. On one boat "FULL" was cut from averaging 7-8 days to about 2 days and on the other boat "FULL" was cut from roughly 5-6 days to about 1.5 days. Same boat, panels, wiring, batteries, just a much better quality controller that does not turn ON/OFF like a shunter will. A lot of the controllers you buy from "discount" solar houses & eBay sellers are "shunters".

If you stick with Morningstar, starting at the Pro-Star series, Blue Sky, Outback, Genasun and a couple other reputable controller manufacturers, you'll be doing well. I've found the eBay stuff can very often be a scam, so be careful.

I have replaced a number of eBay, "so called", MPPT controllers that were not MPPT at all. The were complete scams. The harsh reality is that behind the "MPPT" sticker and box was nothing more than a simple shunting ON/OFF controller. MPPT & PWM controllers do not shut off for long periods of time like shunters do. The average Joe does not know how they should work so these eBay scammers often get away with it.

The Genasun MPPT's are a very good value for smaller for panels. Under 150W, that is pretty much all I install now. When I have a larger array I generally use Blue Sky or Morningstar MPPT controllers though I still use some Morningstar PWM controllers too. I find the Morningstar PWM controllers to be one of the most reliable.

Please be careful with "cheap" controllers as you often get what you pay for, and how much did the batteries cost..?.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Today I was in the barn and still had the controllers set up. I decided to try some differing voltages and currents to see if the MPPT still boosted even at low voltages close to battery charging voltage. "PS" means power supply....

PS Set @ 14.5V & 1.1A = 1.4A to battery / +22%

PS Set @ 15.5V & 1.9A = 2.3A to battery +18%

PS Set @ 16.5V & 2.5A = 2.9A to battery +14%

PS Set @ 17.5V & 3.5A = 4.6A to battery +24%

PS Set @ 20V & 3.5A = 5.1A to battery +32%

PS Set @ 23V & 3.5A = 5.7A to battery +39%

Interesting.........
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,894
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
WOAH.. Neat info.. now the question is what's with the 16V point?? Must be at a cusp or something in the switching/control voltages/currents.. That is good info, Maine.
 

walt

.
Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
On the last set of measurement, something does look very odd. If you held the battery voltage constant, even with the changes in current at each data point, you would see the percent current out/ current in increase linearly with input voltage. But we don’t see that at - the measurement at 14.4 returns a higher percent than both 15.5 and 16.5. The only way to explain this would be the battery voltage changing for each test.

FYI, nice way to simulate a solar panel with a current limited power supply. In the initial video, the power supply for the MPPT controller was set at 17.4 volts and 4 amps. But when the shunt controller was used, the power supply went into current limiting at 4 amps and the power supply voltage would have been the same as the battery and this was 14 volts in the video. This says the battery was close to 14 volts.

In the video, the power in to the MPPT controller was 4a * 17.4v = 69.6 watts. The power delivered to the battery was 5.1a * 14v = 71.4. I.e., the power in is about the same as the power out to the battery which is what you would expect for an efficient Mppt controller.

For the second test with an input voltage of 14.5 volts and a current of 1.1 amps, the input power is 15.95 watts.

However, if the battery voltage was the same as in the video (14 volts), the output power to the battery is 1.4 amps * 14 volt = 19.6 watts.

Well, mppt doesn’t create power, it just preserves it. So for the 14.5 volt reading, the battery voltage must have been lower than in the video.

Assuming the Genasun is 100% efficient, and the readings at 14.5 were accurate, we can calculate that the battery voltage for this test was 11.39 volts.. - which would be very odd, we would have to assume the battery was highly discharged since the test in the video??

But can’t argue with the numbers and power in = power out for a 100% efficient MPPT controller

14.5 volts * 1.1 amps = X * 1.4 amps
X = 11.39 volts

Was the battery really at 11.39 volts?
 
Jun 6, 2006
6,990
currently boatless wishing Harrington Harbor North, MD
hey MS
So is the power supply replacing the solar panels in this experiment?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
On the last set of measurement, something does look very odd. If you held the battery voltage constant, even with the changes in current at each data point, you would see the percent current out/ current in increase linearly with input voltage. But we don’t see that at - the measurement at 14.4 returns a higher percent than both 15.5 and 16.5. The only way to explain this would be the battery voltage changing for each test.

FYI, nice way to simulate a solar panel with a current limited power supply. In the initial video, the power supply for the MPPT controller was set at 17.4 volts and 4 amps. But when the shunt controller was used, the power supply went into current limiting at 4 amps and the power supply voltage would have been the same as the battery and this was 14 volts in the video. This says the battery was close to 14 volts.

In the video, the power in to the MPPT controller was 4a * 17.4v = 69.6 watts. The power delivered to the battery was 5.1a * 14v = 71.4. I.e., the power in is about the same as the power out to the battery which is what you would expect or an efficient Mppt controller.

For the second test with an input voltage of 14.5 volts and a current of 1.1 amps, the input power is 15.95 watts.

However, if the battery voltage was the same as in the video (14 volts), the output power to the battery is 1.4 amps * 14 volt = 19.6 watts.

Well, mppt doesn’t create power, it just preserves it. So for the 14.5 volt reading, the battery voltage must have been lower than in the video.

Assuming the Genasun is 100% efficient, and the readings at 14.5 were accurate, we can calculate that the battery voltage for this test was 11.39 volts.. - which would be very odd, we would have to assume the battery was highly discharged since the test in the video??

But can’t argue with the numbers and power in = power out for a 100% efficient MPPT controller

14.5 volts * 1.1 amps = X * 1.4 amps
X = 11.39 volts

Was the battery really at 11.39 volts?
Walt,

The battery voltage was not the same as it was during the video but nowhere close to 11.3V. The battery bank was fully recharged then I hit it three times with a 350A load to suck some juice out, enough to not have the battery limiting the acceptance.

In each case the battery voltage would be slightly different as the current output was different. I did not record the battery voltages just the input voltage and current and output current. In hindsight I should have. I may make another video leaving the current the same but changing only the voltage and adding battery voltage. I tried to simulate what I have seen panels do in the real world in low light by adjusting the current and voltage together.....

I thought what I saw was odd that is why I said "interesting"... I suspect it may not mean much as I did not really give the controller much time to find the best power point and level out in-between adjustments.
 
Jan 4, 2010
1,037
Farr 30 San Francisco
Your setup will have a more abrupt transition between CC and CV the VI characteristic of the power supply is more or less square, an actual solar panel will have a gentler transition between Isc and Voc. So all this means is it is possible that the MPPT stuff in the controller can have some difficulty finding the MPP.

All great information, and you can also see the benefit of MPPT increases as the voltage mismatch between the panel and battery increases.
 

walt

.
Jun 1, 2007
3,511
Macgregor 26S Hobie TI Ridgway Colorado
Regarding the current limit power supply to simulate a solar panel (which I think is clever), MS can correct me if wrong but the power supply was first setup with a voltage at 17.4 and then the current limit was adjusted to be 4 amps. This means that the supply will put out 17.4 volts as long as the load current is below 4 amps. If the load increases past the 4 amp point, the power supply voltage will begin to drop in order to limit the current.

If you look at the video in the first post, at about 2.36 minutes in, you can see the mppt controller search algorithm in action and it actually looks like it works nicely. When the switch is flipped connecting the current limited power supply to the controller solar input, the current first starts at zero but then quickly ramps up. If you look to the left side of the supply, you can see the current limit display light come on but the controller is still able to cause an overshoot in the current just for a fraction of a second before the power supply stabilized at 4 amps - and the current limit light stays on. The controller did a nice job as it put the power supply in current limit but just barely as it allowed the maximum voltage the supply was set at. The controller did find the maximum power output from the supply, found it quickly and seemed to hold it stable. I can’t see anything wrong with this setup..

I pulled this from the Genasun web site
--------------------------------------
The MPPT benefit is:
10% additional power in the summer. (Hot panels have a Vmp closer to battery Voltage.)
30% additional power in the winter (Cold panels have a higher Vmp.)
50% in partial shading (Partial shade causes a dramatic increase in Vmp. We have consistently seen 50-60% increase in energy harvest from partially shaded panels.)
--------------------------------------
What I wanted to point out is the 10% additional power in the summer from the manufactures web site and this is what we are likely to see for a sailboat application (not the great numbers from this experiment). If you’re using a panel when it’s warm and sunny out, the panel is maybe 15% efficient for electricity but they are much more efficient for collecting heat (nice dark color). Sometime just feel how hot a panel gets. The maximum power point is temperature dependent and drops with temp - mostly due to voltage drop.

The 50% increase in partial shading condition is interesting however.. but I wonder if this occurs when the power output is very low to begin with and 50% increase of a low number is still a low number??
 
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