I have asked this question before, a couple of years ago; but here it goes again. I would like to move the main sheet traveler from the bridge deck of my O'day 28 to the coach roof. For anyone who has a bridge deck traveler you know the reasons why; to name a couple: One, so I can enclose the boat with a full enclosure and not have a gap of any kind for rain and bugs to get into the cockpit and two. to get the sheet out of the cockpit and out of the way of crew and guests. I have seen such a modification once in Tawas Michigan and it looked good, but I've lost track of the boat so I can't copy it even if it is possible. If ANYONE has done this to any O'day regardless of model I would like to hear from you and learn from your experience. Also if anyone knows of any structural reasons why it shouldn't be done I'd like to know that too. My boat isn't a blue water boat, I don't race her and I don't (often) put big loads on the traveler so I'm hoping that the coach roof with a little internal bracing may be adaptable to the alteration. Let me know what you think, ladies and gents. You all have always been a great source of information and ideas. Regards, Mike
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Head banger...
I was thinking of doing that to my O27 but found that the traveler on the coach roof would be in the way when passing through the companionway and I'd be bumping my head all the time, or it would have to be so far forward (to keep from hitting your head) that it would put too much stress on the boom. maybe it will work for the 28 but I decided to leave mine alone, I have end boom sheeting so it is really in the way but I have learned to live with it. Good luck D.
I was thinking of doing that to my O27 but found that the traveler on the coach roof would be in the way when passing through the companionway and I'd be bumping my head all the time, or it would have to be so far forward (to keep from hitting your head) that it would put too much stress on the boom. maybe it will work for the 28 but I decided to leave mine alone, I have end boom sheeting so it is really in the way but I have learned to live with it. Good luck D.
Check Yatchworld.com
Mike, The O'28 came with the coach roof traveler from around '82 or'83. Check out yachtworld.com and look at the O'day 28's for sale. You can see from the pictures how to do it. PM
Mike, The O'28 came with the coach roof traveler from around '82 or'83. Check out yachtworld.com and look at the O'day 28's for sale. You can see from the pictures how to do it. PM
Paul and D
Paul and D- Thanks for your ideas and the link at Yacht World. I'll check it out. Maybe I can contact an owner there. Mike
Paul and D- Thanks for your ideas and the link at Yacht World. I'll check it out. Maybe I can contact an owner there. Mike
Conversion of main Sheet Travler
I just did mine. Got all the parts needed to do this from Garhauer. They have the bridge and the Travler at a very good price. Here is the link. http://garhauermarine.com/index.cfm You need to measure between the Hand rails on the coach roof. Deduct 2" for that measurement. Better yet call them at 909-985-9993. You will need to ask for Guido. Remember they are on the west coast, time difference. He comes in at 9:30 their time. Best to call him around that time. They are very helpful and great to deal with.
I just did mine. Got all the parts needed to do this from Garhauer. They have the bridge and the Travler at a very good price. Here is the link. http://garhauermarine.com/index.cfm You need to measure between the Hand rails on the coach roof. Deduct 2" for that measurement. Better yet call them at 909-985-9993. You will need to ask for Guido. Remember they are on the west coast, time difference. He comes in at 9:30 their time. Best to call him around that time. They are very helpful and great to deal with.
JoeD, thanks
JoeD- That is just the info I have been looking for. Did you have to put some kind of bracing/support in the salon ceiling where the fasteners for the risers come through? Thanks for the link, phone number and names. Fair winds to you, Mike
JoeD- That is just the info I have been looking for. Did you have to put some kind of bracing/support in the salon ceiling where the fasteners for the risers come through? Thanks for the link, phone number and names. Fair winds to you, Mike
Backing
The Travler Bridge has backing plates. I just did the normal thing. Over bored the holes and filled with West System and filler. Then redrilled the holes for the correct size bolts. Worked out just fine. The Travler is over built. When you talk with Guido he will tell you which Travler and Bridge you need for your 28. Mine is a 27 Oday. They are very close to being the same size for this purpose. It really frees up the cockpit. Good luck with your project. Garhauer has about a three week lead time.
The Travler Bridge has backing plates. I just did the normal thing. Over bored the holes and filled with West System and filler. Then redrilled the holes for the correct size bolts. Worked out just fine. The Travler is over built. When you talk with Guido he will tell you which Travler and Bridge you need for your 28. Mine is a 27 Oday. They are very close to being the same size for this purpose. It really frees up the cockpit. Good luck with your project. Garhauer has about a three week lead time.
JoeD
Joe- Thanks again for further information on the traveler move. I intend to call the folks at Garhauer today and set up getting the unit sent to me. It's good to know that there is a backing plate for the fasteners. What Westsystems product do I need to fill the deck laminate? I know the process but I don't know which of the many Westsystems products I should use. thanks Mike
Joe- Thanks again for further information on the traveler move. I intend to call the folks at Garhauer today and set up getting the unit sent to me. It's good to know that there is a backing plate for the fasteners. What Westsystems product do I need to fill the deck laminate? I know the process but I don't know which of the many Westsystems products I should use. thanks Mike
West System "kit"
A few years back I bought a West System Epoxy Repair Kit at West Marine. In addition to some epoxy, it included two types of filler, gloves, mixing sticks and some other stuff. If my memory is correct you want to use the silica filler (structural) rather than the microballoons (sandable).
A few years back I bought a West System Epoxy Repair Kit at West Marine. In addition to some epoxy, it included two types of filler, gloves, mixing sticks and some other stuff. If my memory is correct you want to use the silica filler (structural) rather than the microballoons (sandable).
Epoxy
Mike, I used West #105 Expoxy Resin and #206 Hardner. 206 Is a slow cure hardner and #406 Colloidal Silica for the filler. You want to mix to a peanut butter thickness, then fill your holes. I would let it cure for 24 hours, they say 8 hours is ok but it depends on temp. You will need at least a quart of resin. When you measure you boat make sure to leave about 1 1/2 to 2" clearence over your sliding hatch. My measurements were 54 1/2 " wide and the legs for the bridge were 7 1/2" high. Yours will be very close to that.
Mike, I used West #105 Expoxy Resin and #206 Hardner. 206 Is a slow cure hardner and #406 Colloidal Silica for the filler. You want to mix to a peanut butter thickness, then fill your holes. I would let it cure for 24 hours, they say 8 hours is ok but it depends on temp. You will need at least a quart of resin. When you measure you boat make sure to leave about 1 1/2 to 2" clearence over your sliding hatch. My measurements were 54 1/2 " wide and the legs for the bridge were 7 1/2" high. Yours will be very close to that.
JoeD did you
gouge out the balsa core so that there would be a place for the resin/hardner/filler to flow to? I have seen a method where a bent finishing nail was used to clean out some of the balsa core to provide a space for the filler to lay in so that there could be no water intrusion. I talked to Guido yesterday and he recommends 4100 to seal the deck so that water doesn't intrude in to the cabin. Sounds right to me 'cause 5200 won't come off if the traveler ever needs to be removed. I am grateful for the advice you have offered so far. Thanks, Mike
gouge out the balsa core so that there would be a place for the resin/hardner/filler to flow to? I have seen a method where a bent finishing nail was used to clean out some of the balsa core to provide a space for the filler to lay in so that there could be no water intrusion. I talked to Guido yesterday and he recommends 4100 to seal the deck so that water doesn't intrude in to the cabin. Sounds right to me 'cause 5200 won't come off if the traveler ever needs to be removed. I am grateful for the advice you have offered so far. Thanks, Mike
Removing Core Material
Mike, I did that with an Allen wrench that I had sharpened. It grips better in a drill. I wsed Boat Life polysulfied. 3M 4200 is about the same. Guess just use the Boat Life because it has worked great for me over the years. The best book you can get a hold of would be ( Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair) by Don Casey. Many helpful tips in there for the work you will be doing. There is a product called Anti Bond for removing any old caulking. It works great on 5200. West marine has it Item # 1174804 cost $11.99. If you ever tried to remove something with 5200 on it this makes it easy.
Mike, I did that with an Allen wrench that I had sharpened. It grips better in a drill. I wsed Boat Life polysulfied. 3M 4200 is about the same. Guess just use the Boat Life because it has worked great for me over the years. The best book you can get a hold of would be ( Sailboat Hull & Deck Repair) by Don Casey. Many helpful tips in there for the work you will be doing. There is a product called Anti Bond for removing any old caulking. It works great on 5200. West marine has it Item # 1174804 cost $11.99. If you ever tried to remove something with 5200 on it this makes it easy.
filling holes in cored deck
when filling holes with epoxy, it seems like a good idea to tape the bottom of the hole shut, fill with unthickened epoxy then remove tape and catch liquid epoxy in a container. Then before it has cured, fill with your thickened epoxy and proceed. The idea being that the unthickened epoxy will better saturate the core and seal it but still remain sticky to bond with the thickened. my 2¢. gene
when filling holes with epoxy, it seems like a good idea to tape the bottom of the hole shut, fill with unthickened epoxy then remove tape and catch liquid epoxy in a container. Then before it has cured, fill with your thickened epoxy and proceed. The idea being that the unthickened epoxy will better saturate the core and seal it but still remain sticky to bond with the thickened. my 2¢. gene
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