1991 Hunter 30. The previous owner installed 1 Starting battery and 3 house batteries in the aft port lazarette. Just by looking at the water line marks it looks like the boat was tilted to port and aft, because of all this extra weight. The batteries were dry, so even adding distilled water did not fix them, they are history. I want to install two new 6v golfcart batteries (225 Ah each) and move them under the port settie and leave just the starting battery in the original location. QUESTION: Can I run the (-)bus wire and the ( ) bus wire to the aft port locker where the original batteries used to live and where the main switch is, and connect them to and - combiner terminals? Is the big, fat battery cable the correct one to use, to run from "down below" in the cabin to the aft port cockpit locker? Thank you for the comments and sorry if it is a question of "limited intelligence".
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You could
You don't say where you main panel is in relation to all this (I'm not familiar to your layout) but why not just put an on-off house battery switch near where you want to put your house bank? If your panel is on the port side it would shorten the cable run and probably make the switch more accessible. Give the starting battery it's own switch and put a combiner circuit between the two banks for charging. Be sure to install proper battery boxes.
You don't say where you main panel is in relation to all this (I'm not familiar to your layout) but why not just put an on-off house battery switch near where you want to put your house bank? If your panel is on the port side it would shorten the cable run and probably make the switch more accessible. Give the starting battery it's own switch and put a combiner circuit between the two banks for charging. Be sure to install proper battery boxes.
Increase cable size
If you increase the distance the wire has to run, then you should increase the wire size to carry the current. I am installing a system, right now, with two 6-volt Trojan T-105 batteries . I think they have 225 or so amp hours. Cost is only $55 each. I am using #4 wire for the main run from the batteries to my buss/ switch panel, which is about 20 feet of distance. This may be slight overkill (#6 would probably be okay). You can find tables that show you wire size needed for various current draws over various distances. West Marine catalog even has one.
If you increase the distance the wire has to run, then you should increase the wire size to carry the current. I am installing a system, right now, with two 6-volt Trojan T-105 batteries . I think they have 225 or so amp hours. Cost is only $55 each. I am using #4 wire for the main run from the batteries to my buss/ switch panel, which is about 20 feet of distance. This may be slight overkill (#6 would probably be okay). You can find tables that show you wire size needed for various current draws over various distances. West Marine catalog even has one.
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Andre K, 1991 Hunter 30
THe main panel
The main panel is on the port side as well, so basically majority of the wires are on the port side. Rick, Are you suggesting that I do not have to run the bus cables all the way to the aft port cockpit locker where all of the wires were aryginally placed? just run it to the main panel? I forgot to mention that my charger/inverter is under the nav table (just next to the main panel) and all of the wires from it run back to the previously mentioned port aft locker. I heard from many sailors on this forum that each bank should have its own on/off switch and than the combiner for charging. Rick do you have a diagram of your instalation? (Your boat looks great!!! I have seen your web-site before) Thanks
The main panel is on the port side as well, so basically majority of the wires are on the port side. Rick, Are you suggesting that I do not have to run the bus cables all the way to the aft port cockpit locker where all of the wires were aryginally placed? just run it to the main panel? I forgot to mention that my charger/inverter is under the nav table (just next to the main panel) and all of the wires from it run back to the previously mentioned port aft locker. I heard from many sailors on this forum that each bank should have its own on/off switch and than the combiner for charging. Rick do you have a diagram of your instalation? (Your boat looks great!!! I have seen your web-site before) Thanks
Yup, that's what I'm sayin'
Think about it. You've got your new battery location sitting right next to your panel where the current needs to end up. Why would you send a wire run all the way back to the lazarette just to turn it around and come back? I'd build your new house circuit from scratch. It's really not difficult. If you haven't pulled your panel yet you'll see where the old house cable connects. Just remove it and put your new one on. Of course you'll have your new on-off switch between the battery and panel mounted somewhere convenient. If your charger has two outputs (many do) it's a no brainer to run one to your new bank. If you can run two charger outputs then a combiner is unnecessary. With this arrangement I'd put an on/off switch between your start and new house banks (use your old house bank wiring) so you can combine the two banks to start the diesel if your starter battery craps out for some reason. This switch would stay off all other times. I do have a schematic for my setup but I can't send it right now (sssshhhh, I'm at work.) I'll try to post it tonight or tomorrow. It's modeled after the diagram in the West Marine catalogue 'advisor' section in the battery area. Thanks for the compliments. Unfortunately Anthem is a mess right now. I'm in the middle of two major installations (CNG to LPG conversion and a solar panel install) so we're living in a long term construction zone.
Think about it. You've got your new battery location sitting right next to your panel where the current needs to end up. Why would you send a wire run all the way back to the lazarette just to turn it around and come back? I'd build your new house circuit from scratch. It's really not difficult. If you haven't pulled your panel yet you'll see where the old house cable connects. Just remove it and put your new one on. Of course you'll have your new on-off switch between the battery and panel mounted somewhere convenient. If your charger has two outputs (many do) it's a no brainer to run one to your new bank. If you can run two charger outputs then a combiner is unnecessary. With this arrangement I'd put an on/off switch between your start and new house banks (use your old house bank wiring) so you can combine the two banks to start the diesel if your starter battery craps out for some reason. This switch would stay off all other times. I do have a schematic for my setup but I can't send it right now (sssshhhh, I'm at work.) I'll try to post it tonight or tomorrow. It's modeled after the diagram in the West Marine catalogue 'advisor' section in the battery area. Thanks for the compliments. Unfortunately Anthem is a mess right now. I'm in the middle of two major installations (CNG to LPG conversion and a solar panel install) so we're living in a long term construction zone.
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Andre K, 1991 Hunter 30
Will wait for the diagram
Good point Rick! I ordered WM catalog and will check their schematics, bu I will also wait for your diagram . Thank you for your help. Also I am going to paint may boat the same color scheme as yours. Its awsome!
Good point Rick! I ordered WM catalog and will check their schematics, bu I will also wait for your diagram . Thank you for your help. Also I am going to paint may boat the same color scheme as yours. Its awsome!
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