Moving my new boat

[Cowpokee]

The next nice weekend we have I will be moving my newly purchased 1983 Goman Express 30 to its new home. I intend on dropping the mast Saturday morning, hauling it to my house to do some minor repairs, then on to the lake Sunday to step the mast and relaunch her. Thinking ahead, I bought a new mast boot - just in case - since I'm sure the current boot is the original. I also bought new aluminum halyard sheeves to replace the probably worn original plastic sheeves.
I have 4 cans of VC 17 for the bottom, and an LED anchor light to replace the burned out one.

This boat has only been in fresh water and will continue to be, but I wonder about replacing the zincs. Will this be necessary? If so, are they sized specifically for this boat or do I just get generic sized pieces?

Having never moved a boat this size I am wondering what other parts should I have on hand that probably would need replacing?

She was raced hard in her younger years so I plan on a complete rigging inspection while the mast is down as well as cutlass bearing, folding prop, etc.

My goal is to minimize time out of water as much as possible by having usually replaced parts on hand before the move.

 

[dlochner]

Congratulations on your new boat!

You'll need to replace the zincs with sacrificial anodes that will work in freshwater, i.e., aluminum or magnesium. Here's a photo of 2 anodes from a freshwater boat, zinc, aluminum, and magnesium from left to right. The zinc and aluminum are after 1 season, the magnesium after 2 seasons.


They all started the same size, for a 1" prop shaft. Remember the operative word in sacrificial anode is sacrifice. If it isn't eroding, then its not working.

A tip for using VC 17 that makes it go further. Get a water bottle with a "sports cap" the kind that will let you squeeze out a stream of water. Don't buy a fancy one, just get a bottle of water with a sports cap for a buck or so. Drink the water and dry the bottle. Fill the bottle with VC 17 and then squeeze out enough for one roller load at a time. Doing this reduces the evaporation rate

 

[Cowpokee]

Here's a photo of 2 anodes from a freshwater boat, zinc, aluminum, and magnesium from left to right. The zinc and aluminum are after 1 season, the magnesium after 2 seasons.

Is that a standard spacing of the attachment screws?


Fill the bottle with VC 17 and then squeeze out enough for one roller load at a time.

Would I squeeze it directly onto the roller?

 

[quadrille38]

Yup squeeze directly on roller. Not too heavy as it dries quickly. I actually use a plastic condiment bottle that I bought for a couple bucks at the grocery store.

And you really don't need to clean the brush or roller when you are done. Next time you need to paint just start applying paint to roller or brush. It will soften right back up and away you for.

 

[dlochner]

Here's a photo of 2 anodes from a freshwater boat, zinc, aluminum, and magnesium from left to right. The zinc and aluminum are after 1 season, the magnesium after 2 seasons.

Is that a standard spacing of the attachment screws?

Yes. The anode size is determined by the shaft size. These mount on the prop shaft. A good source is Boatzincs.com

Fill the bottle with VC 17 and then squeeze out enough for one roller load at a time.

Would I squeeze it directly onto the roller?

Yes. I had a roller pan that I would put the roller in, squeeze the bottle and use the pan to catch the drips as they fall off the roller. You'll work out your own system pretty quickly. Don't bother cleaning the roller pan, use it again next year. Also use a metal roller pan.

 

[SFS]

Congrats on the boat. That is an ambitious list of work to get done overnight. Good luck.

 

[chris mac]

Check the in mast wiring while it's down too. Lights and vhf. Much easier than while it's standing.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Cowpokee;
Are you at Steele Creek Marina and is it Triton Yacht Sales with their hydraulic trailer going to do the work. If so, are you dealing with Paul Wells? I am a retired sailboat dealer who launched so many boats in that lake paticuraly Steele Creek as American Marine & Sail Supply from Zebulon. Yes you do need a zinc on your prop shaft. Experience teaches me. If it is Paul Wells, you are in excellent hands and he is very professional. He sells, services and hauls boats for a living. I have used him extensively over the years and if you have any questions, he is the appropriate person to ask. I am not sure if you are using the new owner for this so I do not know him at all. I understand he is respected. The ramp on the backside is long enough to retrieve and launch. Also I have a feeling of the crane service that will come out to lift the crane off and back on.

Please advise who is doing the work for you.
Crazy Dave Condon

 

[Justin_NSA]

You plan on doing all of this over a weekend??

 

[Cowpokee]

Cowpokee;
Are you at Steele Creek Marina

No Dave, I am on Kerr Reservoir in Oklahoma. You must be thinking of Kerr Lake in North Carolina.

 

[Cowpokee]

You plan on doing all of this over a weekend??

OK, you guys are forcing me to rethink my abilities. My previous experience has only been with trailer sailors. What am I missing? Same thing only bigger right? I recognize I'll have to rent a crane to lift the mast. (Should I do this before I get the boat on the trailer or after like I've done with my Mac 26S?) Also not having used this trailer/boat combination there will be extra time getting the trailer adjusted to the boat. (I've seen this done before and it means going for a swim under the boat to check the fit) Also, hauling a 10' wide load 100 miles over windy, twisting mountain roads won't go as fast as my Mac did. I was planning on getting an early start, so I was expecting to have the boat home shortly after lunchtime. Since I'll have to rent another crane to step the mast, maybe I should schedule it for the following weekend instead?

 

[dlochner]

OK, you guys are forcing me to rethink my abilities. My previous experience has only been with trailer sailors. What am I missing? Same thing only bigger right? I recognize I'll have to rent a crane to lift the mast. (Should I do this before I get the boat on the trailer or after like I've done with my Mac 26S?) Also not having used this trailer/boat combination there will be extra time getting the trailer adjusted to the boat. (I've seen this done before and it means going for a swim under the boat to check the fit) Also, hauling a 10' wide load 100 miles over windy, twisting mountain roads won't go as fast as my Mac did. I was planning on getting an early start, so I was expecting to have the boat home shortly after lunchtime. Since I'll have to rent another crane to step the mast, maybe I should schedule it for the following weekend instead?

The first rule of DIY boating is that all jobs take longer and cost more than initially planned.

Give yourself extra time. Whether you can step the mast on your new boat depends to a great extent on the weight of the mast and how it is stepped, keel stepped, deck stepped or tabernacle. It is likely too heavy to simply muscle it up. You'd have to build a gin pole on the boat to pick up the mast, it can be done, a crane is easier.

 

[Justin_NSA]

You're evolving just like I did. I went from a 26S to the 30' Hunter and the complexity was exponential. Fortunately our club crane has it's own dock, so we step/unstep masts with the boat in the water. And we have a property manager that has done this hundreds of times and knows how to lift it without damage or casualties. We also have a mast pole in the boat yard but I don't trust it with the size of mine.
Personally, I think it would be easier to work with the mast in the water. Just from the point that it's easier for your help to get on and off the boat easier. If you have access to a sturdy mast pole it might save on crane rentals though. Please enlist someone who knows how the handle a heavy stick. Once the standing rigging is loose, all sorts of things can go wrong!

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

did not know there were two kerr lakes. sorruy