Moving Boat with Sheared Shaft Strut

[tomgrigsby]

My 1979 H30 has a sheared shaft strut (sound of weeping here). It sheared off clean at the hull. The yard I'd like to take the boat to is about 20 miles away. Any considerations for protecting the shaft etc. from additional damage. My plan is to sail close and then get towed in. I'm thinking don't let the shaft freewheel. Anyone done this before? Thoughts and recommendations would be appreciated.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

A Shaky Endeavour at Best ..................

My main concern would be that the fixed prop (in gear) would start oscillating with any kind of flow around it.

Having said that, is there any way of removing the prop before setting sail ? This would eliminate any worry of oscillation. If you're not still on the hard (and presuming your water is rather cold) any chance of having a diver remove the prop before leaving ?

 

[tomgrigsby]

My main concern would be that the fixed prop (in gear) would start oscillating with any kind of flow around it.

Having said that, is there any way of removing the prop before setting sail ? This would eliminate any worry of oscillation. If you're not still on the hard (and presuming your water is rather cold) any chance of having a diver remove the prop before leaving ?

I wondered about that too. Yes, there is a diver at my marina and he probably could pull the prop (and strut for that matter). That's a good idea. It would be cheaper than having the through hull and shaft seal fail underway and sink the boat.

 

[Deadline]

I'd pull just the prop unless you're prepared to bing the hole if he pulls the shaft. At least with the shaft in place it won't sink the boat.

 

[Allan12210]

Run a line under the boat an tie it off on each side.

 

[kloudie1]

I like Allan's idea. but don't pull it up higher than the strut supported it because that will bend it more.
I had the same problem a couple of years ago and towed the boat at about 6 knots for 10 miles with the transmission in reverse to lock the shaft. I did have the proper plug (bung) in hand in case the shaft came out. The shaft had a 3" out of true bend in it from when it failed under power; the strut blade was still attached to the shaft I was able to reclaim (straighten) the shaft at a machine shop but I needed a new coupling half and of course a new strut and prop. I have packing and not a seal; the packing did not leak ..
EDIT:
Prop had slung a blade and the unbalance broke the strut. Electrolysis attack.

 

[LANCE ON CLOUD NINE]

while pulling the prop, you could have the diver wedge in a support between the shaft and hull to stabilize and lend support. Something like a plastic milk crate might work and would let water pass through. You could notch it to better hold the shaft. Use a hacksaw and remove the handle from crate and let shaft lay in the hand hold openings. slide it until snug and then secure it around and under boat with a truckers ratchet strap passing through the crate. good luck.

 

[Ted]

As others have said, make sure the shaft doesn't fall out. You can place a couple of hose clamps on the shaft inside the hull and attach a length of line to them. Tie the line off forward of the hose clamps to prevent the shaft from falling out in the event the coupling shaft screws fail.

 

[fstbttms]

As others have said, make sure the shaft doesn't fall out. You can place a couple of hose clamps on the shaft inside the hull and attach a length of line to them.

I think putting a zinc on the inboard side of the shaft would provide more positive holding power.

 

[JVB]

How about just clamping Vise-Grip pliers on the shaft inside the hull ?

 

[woodster]

How about just clamping Vise-Grip pliers on the shaft inside the hull ?

that would more than likely scar the shaft and that may not be a good thing ...if this was my problem i would take the shaft coupling off and remove the shaft ...then put a short pieace of stock the same dia ( a wooden dowel will work just fine).... as the shaft back in the stuffing box and tighten the nut back up till it didnt leak and then tighten it up a little more to insure it stayed in the stuffing box and be on my way ....chances are that the shaft is bent and needs strighting or replaceing any way at least have it check for true.....

regards

woody

woody

 

[tomgrigsby]

Thanks for all the tips and recommendations. I would be very hesitant to pull the shaft with the boat in the water. Truth be told, it will take a fight to separate the coupling even after the bolts are removed. I attempted an engine alignment last year but couldn't get the shaft coupling to separate after pulling all four bolts and nuts. I think it was just rusted together but I didn't get back to it again (more weeping).
I think plan A will be to run a strap under the shaft to keep it from excessive movement. It is a 1" shaft that extends about 32 inches externally. Plan B will be to have a diver pull the prop and remains of the strut. I'll discuss with the diver to see how much this will cost and his anticipation of difficulty. It will probably become plan A if he thinks he can get the prop off without too much difficulty.

 

[CalebD]

Just went through this exercise with my boat on the hard. Still not easy by any means.
Even pulling the prop requires a prop puller which uses wrenches, bolts and a bit of time to tighten it up enough for the prop to want to come off. Even with our shaft cut in half, the back half of the shaft in a vise and the prop puller fully tensioned it took a few good hits with a small sledge to persuade it to come off.
I'm heading to the prop shop tomorrow with the 2 halves of our shaft, our prop and coupling to get a new shaft and coupling and everything 'fitted' and faced.

I think your plan A would be easier and cheaper. I'd just worry that a strap would add more pressure to your shaft while you are sailing. What about using elastic bungee type cord to just secure the strut and put the tranny in any gear but neutral?

 

[tomgrigsby]

Just went through this exercise with my boat on the hard. Still not easy by any means.
Even pulling the prop requires a prop puller which uses wrenches, bolts and a bit of time to tighten it up enough for the prop to want to come off. Even with our shaft cut in half, the back half of the shaft in a vise and the prop puller fully tensioned it took a few good hits with a small sledge to persuade it to come off.
I'm heading to the prop shop tomorrow with the 2 halves of our shaft, our prop and coupling to get a new shaft and coupling and everything 'fitted' and faced.

I think your plan A would be easier and cheaper. I'd just worry that a strap would add more pressure to your shaft while you are sailing. What about using elastic bungee type cord to just secure the strut and put the tranny in any gear but neutral?

I was afraid of that. Trying to pull the prop in the water might open a can of worms. A couple of bungees and the tranny locked (or a shaft lock) is about the best I'm going to get, I think.

 

[Bill Roosa]

I suggest a block of wood glued to the hull (polysulfide life caulk sets underwater) and with a V cut in the other end to act as a replacement strut. You could secure it with a strap on the wood block or a larger one going up the hull to the gunnels. Use big Vice-grip pliers and some wood blocks to keep from marring the shaft to lock the shaft in place.

 

[WayneH]

Tom,

Your transmission may be (and probably is) different than my transmission. My hydraulic transmission only operates when the engine is running to supply power. (or it's broke)

I found this out while trying to set my two bladed prop to the vertical position during a long sail. Prop is spinning like crazy and putting the transmission in gear with the engine off did nothing to slow it down. I nearly rubbed a hole in my gloves trying to stop the prop from spinning.

Now I think I'll calculate some gear ratios and install an alternator on the shaft to charge the batteries under sail instead of wasting all that energy.

 

[PrincessoftheLake]

A couple of years ago we were crossing western Lake Superior from the Apostle Islands to Silver Bay Marina and just as we entered the marina the shaft strut sheared off. Luckily we had lots of folks to help us with lines and got us pulled into a slip. There was a dive boat next to us and one of the guys went in, diagnosed our problem and then helped us tie the shaft in place using a line tied around the shaft and brought up over the side and tied to the rails. The next morning we got towed out by dinghy and once out of the marina we were able to raise sails and got most of the way back to our marina which was about 50 miles. We got towed in the last little ways because the wind died but we made it. I also want you to know I feel your pain. Much wailing and gnashing of teeth (and a few unladylike swear words) when it happened to me.

 

[crew2447]

We had exactly this problem and ran the boat with motor about 30 miles. That was a mistake. We ended up with a bent shaft, bent coupler, and a bent transmission output shaft. Total repair came to about $5000. Avoid motoring with the shaft strut broken.

 

[tomgrigsby]

We had exactly this problem and ran the boat with motor about 30 miles. That was a mistake. We ended up with a bent shaft, bent coupler, and a bent transmission output shaft. Total repair came to about $5000. Avoid motoring with the shaft strut broken.

I hear you and won't do that,Thanks. I'm hoping mine didn't bend when it let go. Might already be too late.:cry: