Moving a H37c

[Val]

I’m getting ready to go and prep my new H37c for trucking here to SD.She is an ’85, well actually built in ’84. I have a lot of work to do and only 5 days to get it done.Seems pretty daunting. These may seem obvious/dumb questions, but I did not have much time on the boat at the survey and very little time to complete the derigging.I think she has a CDI furler,but do not know the model. I have looked at the CDI site, and think the furler has a halyard in the extrusion? Does it require some sort of extention line to be attached to lower the sail? Looks like I can access the turnbuckle below the open drum on this model, so it may not matter. The archives say there are 2 bolts holding the mast, one at the base and one at the deck level. Where exactly are these located and how easy are they to access? I have some pictures, but have not seen those bolts. Does the bolted collar have to be removed? I have been told by the trucking co. I need to remove the halyards. Has anyone used parachute cord for messenger lines? Is it easier to run these with the mast up or down. Seems like there might be more things to get caught on when horizontal.Need to drain both water and fuel tanks, (25+ gals of diesel). Shouldn't be a problem if I offer to give it away especially considering the price today.Oh yeah, someone mentioned using some good duct tape that leaves less or no residue, where can I get this tape? Home Depot and Lowes just have the regular stuff which I will be using to wrap the mast.If anyone has any tips or thing to watch out for, I would love to hear them. Any tools I will need etc, etc. I will only be able to take a few tools with me.I hope they don't get confiscated.Have many other questions about replacing gate valves with ball valves, engine alignment, stuffing box hose, but I'll save those for later.ThanksVal

 

[Richard Bryer]

Some answers

I had my H34 trucked from Chicago to Toronto. here are some of the things I learned:I had Larson in Chicago do the derigging and prep work. This also involved winterizing as it was November.Mine has a CDI furler- old - and does require a messenger line but that is really only important when yu are putting the mast back up.Dont know about the mast base on yours- mine has no boltsMy trucking company- ATL - shipped with halyards in, didnt seem to be a problem.Mine also came with some diesel in the tank- I later removed it as I wasnt sure whether they conditioned it or what so I started fresh. I would empty all tanks if you have the time as that is the safer course.Sure would advise getting tape that leaves no residue- I spent a bunch of time trying to get reisdue off the mast from tape that had been there all winter.Other stuff- make sure everything is labeled and anything stored in the cabin is tied down so it cant chafe. Take off any vents/dorades etc as the wind can blow them off.Take a digital camera and take close ups of the rigging, the furler base, any thing else you think might be a problem putting back together.Have fun with your new boat!

 

[Tim Welsh]

Hauling Hunter 34

I didn't use a Trucking Company I hauled it myself so some of the rules don't apply. (removing halyards, diesel, derigging mast etc,) I still kept it under 13'6" I use the zip ties that cops use as handcuffs. (I'm sure Fred Ficarra can tell you where to get those) haha. I buy them from a local nut and bolt supplier. Fastenal is the company I use. No duct tape was used in the process. Removing your mast probably doesn't require removing any bolts at the base. (I could be wrong though) When I drained the water I just turned on the sink faucets and shower till they were empty. Anyway good luck...Tim Welsh H34 AKA Cabo Wabo

 

[Tim Welsh]

P.S. Ileft the furler and sail intact with themast

nm

 

[Alan Johnson16689]

Split Drum on CDI

I have an '85 H37C and it came with a CDI. You need a messenger line attached to the intregal halyard to lower the sail. Split the drum and you will be able to get to the turnbuckle or loosen the aft stay to gain some slack and pull the pin at the end of the turnbuckle where it attaches to the stemhead fitting. My 85 has two bolts, one bolt thru the collar on the deck and an additional bolt located under the table. I've heard some horror tales of the base corrosion to mast problems, be ready to PERSUADE it off. To drain the water tanks, disconnect the supply vales to the y valve in the bilge or disconnect the hoses at the point they connect to the tank(easily accessible). With diesel, use a manual pump thru the tank guage hole. I used a brass bodied pump often used to change oil. Pump it into 5 gal. pails and offer it to other boaters or add it to you oil burner tank, it will burn ok. Hope this helps.

 

[Val]

Gaffers Tape

Thanks for all the great responses. This great site was part of the reason I purchased my h37c, of course the 37c's great design had a little to do with it. I did some reseach on tape and found that Gaffer's tape used by stage and lighting people is just like duct tape but leaves no residue. I found some at a local lighting store. A little pricey, but should save some work later on. Very sticky stuff.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Tape and bolts.

Good advise so far. Don't look to far for tape though. Lowes and Home Depot have real duct tape, the chrome-looking stuff with the peel off back. Sticks well and leaves almost no residue. What is left comes off easily. This is NOT the gray duck tape which leaves a mess..The mast bolts do have to come out. A big hammer, a bigger drift punch, and wrenches will be required. The one in the bilge is probably corroded. The partners at the deck can stay. You will want to cover that hole.I have done halyards both ways, nothing in the mast but halyards. Any small cheap rope will work for messengers. There are four sheaves up there. Before you restep you can replace worn halyards and add additional if they are not there. Also a good time to check/replace wiring which runs in an extrusion behind the sail track. Have fun!

 

[Val]

No corrosion on mast

Thanks Ed,luckily the mast has no visible corrosion so hopefully I won't need a sledge hammer.My list of things to do to both the mast and the boat while in the yard is already large.Strut bearing needs replacing and engine needs alignment.Replacing the gate valves is near the topI wanted to ask you about replacing the engine intake gate valve with a ball valve. Is that just a unscrew the old and screw on the new?Not much space in that area.Thanks

 

[dprior]

High winds

I agree with everything posted so far. I have an 84 H37C which I bought in Houston in 84 and then trucked to Seattle in 95. I did not take the halyards out. They were duct taped to the mast for the trip.I have two bolts in the mast. One is at the partners which is no problem. The other holds up the table in the main cabin. Nothing in the bilge.The only thing I will add is to duct tape every possible opening where the high wind can get in. The amount of dust and road grime that will get in is hard to believe. Imagine a 70 mile an hour wind offshore and that is what you will get on the highway. Tape off the weather boards and the dorades as well as the mast hole and all the through hulls. Remember the forward sink through hull which does not have a valve. Also tape off the air vents for the fuel tank, holding tank and water tanks. Walk around the boat and imagine the wind. Use lots of tape!!!I did not leave the tape on after the trip so I did not have any trouble taking it off.I made the easiest trip possible. I was living in Nigeria and the boat was in Corpus Christi. I phoned a company in Seattle area (Associated Boat movers). They had just made a delivery to Houston so they had a truck in the area. I told them my slip number, told them to pick up the boat a deliver it in Seattle. I arrived back a few weeks later and the boat was there. Other than dirt inside there was no problems at all. You just lay $100 bills end to end from the start port to the finish port and it slides right along.The re-rigging was an experience as I did not see the take down. I recommend that while the mast is down you replace everything. Anchor light, radio antenna, steaming light, all the wiring and look carefully at the sheaves for the halyards. It may be the last time you see them.Fair winds.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Gate valves.

There's more room in that bilge for valve work than first meets the eye Val. Originally I had a ball valve directly on the thru-hull. Then the elbow, a very short nipple, and then a 'T' valve. With the T-valve I could supply either the engine or the A/C unit.Ball-valves and thru-hulls do not match up well. I wanted a seacock. But no one makes a seacock for a 1/2" thru=hull. So I replaced the thru-hull with a 3/4" and added a seacock. The T-valve still sits on top. Getting all of that tight and having the right swing angles for the handles is no easy task.Mine is a '79. Maybe your thru-hull is 3/4". In that case screw on a real seacock.

 

[Val]

Thruhull location

My engine intake thru hull is under the engine pan/liner and has a 90 elbow on it and the gate valve. I guess where there's a will there's a way.I want to install seacocks as well, but may have to wait for the next haulout to plan it better.Just trying to figure out if putting a ball valve on the 90 elbow (temporarily) is better than leaving the gate valve.Thanks

 

[Ed Schenck]

Ball-valve.

The BRONZE ball-valve will attach two ways, to the elbow or vertically to the thru-hull. To the elbow gives you more latitude for handle position. In other words you can make it leak free and still open/close it.But vertically(directly) on the thru-hull is safer. There is no "lever" formed where it could be stepped on or otherwise compromised. And there are two less threaded connections. When you shut it off to go home you will feel better.