Mounting handrails to cabin top

Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
I have reached an age where I think handrails on top of my cabin would be a good idea. My question is how are they usually attached? Do you drill up from inside the cabin and attach with screws or are they generally through bolted and plugged from the top? I have looked at some and can't find any evidence of plugs on the handrail. I think through bolts would be stronger but if I put a big screw in each "leg" of the handrail from inside the cabin it seems like it would be strong enough. I have seen some fasteners that look like half lag bolts and half machine screws. I was thinking of drilling and installing the lag screw end in the "legs" of the handrail then drill down and use acorn nuts inside the cabin. Thanks.
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
My handrails on my Hunter 30 are just screwed in from the top with bronze wood screws and into the plywood core and then plugged. Your hanger bolt idea sounds good if you can find them in bronze or stainless and cap them off with acorn nuts. I am replacing my old teak hand rails that are 10 foot long with my homemade pvc hand rails. I will install them the same the old teak ones were. It was plenty strong just using wood screws from the top. Your top my not be thick enough.
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Hi Kito. I don't think the core is thick enough to just screw down into it. I didn't know those were called hanger bolts but you bring up a good point in that I have never seen them in anything other then steel. I have until spring to mount these so I will try to find some in brass or SS. If you say it was strong enough going from the top down it should be strong enough going from inside the cabin up. Thanks.
 
Jul 12, 2011
1,165
Leopard 40 Jupiter, Florida
There is no "age" young enough that having an extra hand-hold on a sailboat is wasted!

If you're picking them out, select stainless or imitation wood - no need to buy an annual maintenance project. Considering the size of your boat (same as mine), I would make sure you have generous backing plates or even a full-length "bar" (1/8 inch plate) under all of the bolts. The maximum stress on that handhold will come when you really need it and all of your weight is depending on it. A large fender washer may not be enough.
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I checked Ebay and there are tons of stainless hanger bolts listed. There is actually some 316 stainless but are metric. I try to use 316 SS if at all possible. I reck'n any 300 series SS would be fine for your application though.
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Thanks for the feedback guys. I also found SS hanger bolts at Mcmaster-Carr. I will definitely take into account that my full weight may be on these. I am going to test them before I trust them. Thanks again.
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,926
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
I'd thru-bolt them and plug the holes in the top of the handrails after. Hanger-bolts are still just a wood-screw into the teak plastic handrails, after seeing my Dad slip off the deck when he stepped on a jib-sheet and the thru-bolted handrail that he grabbed held firm as he grabbed it... I'd never attach a critical safety item with screws. One thought, the stainless-steel rails usually have the bolts built-in, I prefer the warm look of teak (and teak is often less $$ than the SS or Starboard versions), but the clean look of the stain-less rails along with the bolts being integral might make that choice worth considering. Teak is NOT hard to maintain, and actually.. requires just being kept clean to avoid problems. Applying varnish or other clear finish sure looks GREAT, but then does become an upkeep task. Raw teak will weather to a salty, grey color and the natural oils will protect it. A periodic cleaning with a soft scrub brush should remove any dirt without eroding the surface. We kept ours oiled (use teak oil and apply with a rag or small "chip-brush"), but even in Southeastern New England that oiling became a nearly every 2-weeks task. Teak cleaners/bleaches actually do more harm than good, as they chemically remove wood each time, we found a light sanding with fine paper or bronze wool worked best (about 1-2 times per year).
The ones from CATALINA DIRECT, made for the Cat-22, "might" fit, but calling them would get you a yes/no and price. However, I'd check at WEST or other marine outlets for something "off-the-shelf", since the Catalina ones are "semi-custom" (even if ordered for a Catalina) and so may be $$. I like that they are made to attach using machine screws (bolts) from below, the rails have threads cut in the bottoms of the legs (plugs welded into the tubing).
 
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Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Hi Sunbird. Good to hear from you again. After much soul searching I think I agree with you and what a couple of others have said. Through bolt and plug. I have a plug cutter and it wouldn't be all that difficult to do. I have about 6000 board feet of 1.250 by 15' well seasoned white oak left over from a very expensive fencing job. I have used a lot of white oak in the past for outdoor projects and I know it to be a very durable and hard wood. It's what folks used to use before the days of salt treated wood for decks and bridges and it will hold up for many years with nothing on it at all. I have made some railings by cutting a series of 3.5" holes down the center of a board and cutting between alternating holes with a jig saw. I then ripped it down the center which left me with two 7 foot railings. I want the strength of oak with a minimum of maintenance. White oak ages to a nice silver gray which to me is more appealing then SS. Thanks for all the feedback and talking me out of using screws. I often sail alone and even though I wear a self inflating life vest I do not want to be floating around like a turd in a punch bowl watching my ride sail away without me.