Motor Mounts

py26129 · Sep 25, 2015

Since this is prior to a purchase, I would price the motor mount replacement and any other repairs you feel are necessary with the local yard, and deduct that from the offer.

To answer your question about replacing motor mounts, it depends on how handy you are. A friend of mine did his last year, in an afternoon, including the alignment but he's a mechanical wizard and it would take me a lot longer than thant.

Cheers

Matt

Jackdaw · Sep 25, 2015

Sorry, but I always kinda chuckle when someone describes 27 year old original sails as 'usable'.

There not usable. The boat has no sails.

Don S/V ILLusion · Sep 25, 2015

Just a suggestion - motor mounts like many other components are not specific to a specific type or brand boat but rather are related to the motor itself in this case so consequently, you would be better served asking generic questions in the general forums. Many people who can give you advice may not read the C30 forum unless they view all forums.

Stu Jackson · Sep 25, 2015

M25 engine info

Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too

http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine

Critical Upgrades http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5078.0.html

jimmcgee · Oct 1, 2015

Your to-do list isn't bad. You can get by with the old electronics for a season or two, same with the old sails if you're not looking to sail fast

The masthead sheave is available from Garhauer. If you drop the mast to inspect the rig you can check the condition of the pulley. If it's questionable a new one will set you back around $50. While the mast is down replace all your bulbs.

The sensitivity of the autopilot is adjustable. If it's hunting or steering a sine wave it may just need to be tweaked. If it's a Raymarine or Simrad wheel pilot you can find the manuals online.

You can find details on replacing the water pump on the C34 site that Stu linked above (it's a great site).

The motor mounts and exhaust elbow aren't bad to do if you like working on engines. Here are a couple of tricks that can help.

Soak everything down repeatedly with PB Blaster for a couple of weeks before you start and tap the nuts and bolts lightly with a hammer each time.

Replace all four mounts. Don't even think about doing just one.

Don't use the stock Universal mounts. Use Vetus K75 mounts. They made a HUGE difference on our boat. It was like we swapped in a new engine that ran a LOT smoother than the old one.

Remove the drawers from the galley above the engine. You'll find a small access panel under the bottom drawer. Remove it, this allows the engine to be raised enough to clear the mounts. Next remove the nuts connecting the prop shaft to the transmission. Finally remove the exhaust elbow to get clearance to lift the engine. You'll probably have to cut the old hose connecting the exhaust to the muffler with a hacksaw to get it off.

Two guys makes the job easier. The engine can be levered up with a big pry bar to do the front mounts. When you pull the old mount insert a block of wood. Set the initial height on the new mount by placing it next to the old one. Assuming the engine is properly aligned this will get you in the ballpark and make the alignment with the new mounts easier.

When you look at the rear mounts you'll notice a bolt hole in the mounting bracket forward of the mount. There's not a lot of room to try and lever the motor up with a pry bar. The trick is to insert a bolt through this hole and thread a nut up onto the bolt until it's touching the underside of the mounting bracket. Slip a fender washer under the end of the bolt to protect the fiberglass on your stringers. Hold the nut with a wrench and start cranking the bolt down with a 3/4" ratchet. As you crank down you'll raise the engine up enough to clear the bolt on the motor mount. Do the same for the port side rear mount.

I was very careful about setting the new mounts to the same height as the old ones. I set up a small board on the counter, leveled it and put a small torpedo level across the bolts for the new and old mount until they were dead on. When the new mounts were installed I had almost no adjustment to align the engine. Your Universal manual will walk you through the alignment.

When putting it all back together you'll need an exhaust gasket. Get the model number from the top of your engine and go here (Westerbeke Universal Parts) to find the part number and gasket for your model.

Don't replace the stock exhaust hose. Instead order a hump hose from Catalina Direct. It will reduce the vibration transmitted to your water lift muffler and prevent the inlet from cracking. Double check whether you have the 2" ID or 1 5/8" ID before ordering.

The pictures should help make this all make sense

If you take your time it's not a bad job.

I hope this helps,
Jim

FastOlson · Oct 1, 2015

That '88 boat probably has the 23 hp M25XP Universal. Real good engine. We have a bit over 2000 hours on our '88 engine.
The mounts are about ten years beyond their replacement date. Others have already given you great advice about the rest of the list.
Note that it is common - amazingly common - for sellers to Defer Most Maintenance and then illogically expect the buyer to pay them as though they had actually done the work and spent the money. (!)
Subtract the expected expenditure to fix what has been ignored from what a "turn key" model would cost and offer that much.
Yes, there are lots of boats out there for sale that this simple formula would produce a negative $ number... i.e. the seller needs to pay the buyer rather than the other way around.

So buy the boat if this is The One, but go in with open eyes and the knowledge that you will spend a significant % of the purchase price within the first year to catch up the maintenance.

Fair winds,
Loren

Stu Jackson · Oct 1, 2015

Exhaust riser replacement

Exhaust riser replacement:

Exhaust Riser Removal Tips & Tricks: The hardest thing to do is get that bottom nut off the stud (even after soaking with PBBlaster; carefully mask the transmission to avoid any PBB getting on the seals). We had gone through this “bottom nut” difficulty in 2003 and again in 2008. I had given it a lot of thought and came up with this: While Morgan held a 9/16” box end wrench on the nut from below, I took a huge long one inch combo box/open end wrench from above and he held the open jaw of it on the end of the lower wrench while I hit it with a big hammer. Bingo! The nut came right off. Instead of trying to work that nut off from below, use two people and as much leverage as you can manage to work it off. Sockets and ratchets won’t work on that nut because of the configuration of the exhaust riser and the connection to the manifold. That long wrench & hammer worked, right away.

jimmcgee · Oct 5, 2015

Damifudo said:
Thanks for the great advise. Right now I am learning about Hurricane preparedness when it comes to sail boats. Who would have thunk not two hours after I took procession that I would be facing this horrible weather in Maryland. Live and Learn the more you live the more you learn. Do the new style mounts line up with the existing holes into the stringers?

I am thinking I will probably replace the entire exhaust riser from the Flange to the muffler.

There was no problem with alignment when I installed the Vetus mounts in my 1995.

We dodged the bullet on this storm. There's some good info here from BoatUS on preparing your boat for a storm
http://www.boatus.com/hurricanes/assets/pdf/HurricaneWarning.pdf