Most improved

[Brian]

to date?

Installed a new hot water heater last year. This year, new lazy jacks, 2nd reef line, new head sail and de-rusting my keel.Who knows what else I will find to do this summer.

 

[Art Mancino]

Best Improvement

Went from a 2 blade prop to a three blade prop. My boat can now get out of its own way in reverse and move at a respectable speed going against a current.

 

[Brent Eyster]

Navpod and Raytheon instruments

The best improvement I made was deep-sixing the old Signet Marine instruments and replacing everything with Raytheon heads mounted in a Navpod at the helm and an AutoHelm. The instruments let me see at a glance what was happening, despite any weather, despite how many people I had in the cockpit, despite the lighting, etc. The AutoHelm I nicknamed "Captain Otto". He graciously took the wheel, allowing me to singlehand my vessel with complete ease.Second best improvement? A complete rewire, Lewmar ac/dc panel, Blue Seas switch, dedicated starting battery...but that's another story.

 

[Gary magnuson]

Remote Outboard Controls

When entering or leaving the slip, it seemed to be a controlled crash with the 15HP Johnson OB AUX without any inboard controls. The act of turning aft and reaching out under the stern rail to disengage the engine or adjust the throttle without moving the tiller has been impossible. Without any luck finding a suitable off the shelf throttle control, I fabricated my own and fastened it to the stern rail for easy access without having to take my focus off the docking process. Domestic tranquility has returned.

 

[Bayard Gross]

Two items for C-22

First, my version of a barney post which consists of a couple of pieces of that marine grade 3/4" plastic mounted to the foward wall of the cockpit directly behind the keel winch and topped with a small Harken swivel cam base cam cleat with a Ronstan block. This moves the main sheet forward, which with a tiller extension permits more of my waist ballast foward when single handling.For those with a "headknocker" on a C-22 (which is a Harken block and cam on a pivoting base) you could replace the "headknocker" with a block on the boom. Then move the "headknocker" to the cockpit wall behind the keel winch with some additional support from a large metal backing plate inside on the wall right aft of the keel winch and a block of good wood or plastic on the outside.Second, my backstay adjuster, which so easily powers up both main and headsail with just one line. The standard C-22 stays place some bend into the mast which flattens the main. The backstay adjuster is the best way to get more power out of the main yet still let one flatten it.

 

[H. Nels]

Added a tri-radial sail for those light wind days and a Max-Prop for the no wind days.

 

[Randal Orton]

O/B thermometer

I bought a $16 radioshack indoor/outdoor thermometer and snuck the long outdoor thermocouple lead inside the cowling (being careful to secure it away from moving parts) and now can monitor engine block temp at a glance. After awhile, you come to know what's normal for your o/b. Any read over 110 inside the cowling and I throttle back. Last thanksgiving I jammed it into the turkey for meat temperature. Came out nice and clean . . .

 

[Randal Orton]

Teak protection

Rather than shell out for custom canvas covers for the teak cabin top rails on top of my Cal 25, I bought two 6' lengths of PVC (white plastic) rain gutters at Home Depot, cut to right length, flipped them over and - voila! - instant, indestructible, water and sun-proof covers. Haven't varnished since (2 yrs). Total cost, less than $12. Also installed a breakwater in front of the forward hatch rim using scrap teak and 5200 to glue it to the deck. Keeps the jib sheets and waves from getting under the hatch, and adds a bit of functional varnished teak on an otherwise barren plastic deck. Lastly, I retabbed the main bulkheads with F/G mat + 3 plys roving and epoxy resin. No more creaks, increased confidence in structural integrity of boat.

 

[Bill Trent]

Raising & Lowering the mast

My Hunter 23 is a 1986 model. When we bought the boat a book explaining "how to raise the mast" came with the boat. The description of raising the mast involves two people. Up here in Ontario, mast raising cranes are standard. In Florida they are not. So, after examining the newer models of Hunters at the St Pete's Boat show, I set up the boat so I can raise the mast by myself. First I enquired the cost of the hardware from Hunter to convert the boat to raise the mast similar to the newer Hunters. There was one part of the hardware I didn't care for and that was the two U shaped pieces that receive the supporting legs. If you are like me, you like to sail barefoot, I could see me kicking the U shaped pieces and gashing my foot. So, instead I put U bolts through the deck, no sharp edges, on either side of the mast. I loop the main halyard around the mast and attach the side guy cables to the U bolts and to the main halyard and pull the halyard up under the tangs just below the spreaders. I made the cables from old shrouds and use turnbuckles to tention the cables. This stops the mast from swaying while raising or lowering. I made a "gin pole" out of a piece of galvanized fence post and notched it with a hacksaw so the notch slips under the plate at the bottom of the mast. I attach the jib halyard to an eye on the end of the "gin pole" and the blocks that make up the main sheets. to another eye on the "gin pole" and the blocks to the bar at the bow that is imbedded in the fiberglass. To stop the "gin Pole" from moving off centre line again rope guys are established from the eye end of the "gin pole" to the U bolts where the cables are attached. I use this system on the trailer or in the water. If the mast is guyed it shouldn't go anywhere. Anyway, that is how I do it.

 

[Bill Trent]

Repowering

The Hunter 23 came equiped with a 5 HP outboard motor. We wore the motor out on an 850 mile trip around the south part of Florida. I think a piece from the bottom of the skirt of the piston broke off and jammed between the piston and the cylander wall. So, We replaced the 5 HP with a 9 HP 4 stroke. Advantages, quieter, great fuel milage and more powerful at lower RPMs. Problems, the 4 stroke is much heavier than the 2 stroke. We tried to attach the motor to the outboard bracket that came with the boat. It was obvious the motor was to heavy and it wouldn't be to long before the bolts supporting the outboard bracket would pull through the hull, also the outboard bracket wasn't wide enough to receive the motor. So, I used three quarter plywood glued together with 5200 and cut the now inch and a half plywood to fit inside the transom. I glued the plywood to the transom using 5200 glue. The transom is slightly concaved inside the hull. So using the holes that the old outboard bracket was attached to the transom and large washers, I bolted the piece of plywood so it made contact with the fibergalss transom. I went to a local machine shop and had a new outboard bracket made of quarter inch aluminum. The end where the motor sits is doubled to accommidate the bracket from the motor. As at the beginning of this item, I mentioned the motor was very heavy. Putting the motor on the outboard bracket in the water is a difficult job. So, in another article I mention a "gin pole" made from a galvanized fence post. I use this to hoist the motor up high enough so that I can lift it on to the outboard bracket. I clamp the "gin pole" vertically to the side of the outboard bracket and use the main sheets to raise the motor high enough so I can then lower the motor on to the outboard bracket. Otherwise find someone to help you.

 

[BILL ROBB]

Did a little woodwork

My budget was extremely limited this past year but I couldn't help feeling depressed if I didn't do something for my "mistress." This turned out to be a simple project to add a louvered teak door & frame to the traditional triangle-shaped hole in the forecastle - the very front of the boat. I noticed that my opening was almost exactly 15" wide - which just happens to be the size of a commercially available louvered teak door & frame. I bought one on sale for $50 - spent one fun afternoon squaring off the opening and installing it and - wow! - instant "class!"

 

[John H380 1999]

New dodger and bimini

We junked the Hunter stock bimini and added a new dodger and bimini.

 

[Scott Mathey]

Improvements

So far the best improvments have been a roller furling for the jib sail and I have also added two gel cell batteries w/solar charger. One of the batteries is for the boat lighting & electronic needs and the other is for running a few accessoeies, a wet/dry vacuum, pump with a hose to rinse off the deck, C D player, VHF recharge. Have a good new year.

 

[tomD]

Definitely the 1st mate.

My best friend was 1st mate, problem was he was most certain he was captain and commodore. Now he's ashore and my wife is 1st mate. We debate the tacking and sailplan decisions at the end of the day instead of on the fly. Huge improvement.

 

[gary Jensen]

ecliptical luff

Boat is a 1998 Cattalina 380....It really has everything....My best addition was the ecliptical foam luff I had sewen into the jib. The boat had both a furled main and a furled jib. I had infinite reefing...AT MY FINGERTIPS! I could furl both sails very easily from the cockpit while underway with the autopilot on..It just dosn't get any better...

 

[Gary]

Rudder Post Grease Fitting

Since we purchased our C-30 a couple of years ago we have had many projects including additon of a roller furler and 135 genoa,new standing and running rigging, a rigid boom vang, holding tank, two new hatches, stereo, cockpit speakers,ice box thermometer,and many others I can't think of right now but the BEST project that had more bang for the buck than any other only cost about $3.00. We had expereienced what I felt was stiff steering. Never having had a sailboat with a wheel before I was not sure if the friction was normal until I felt my neighbors wheel. Determined to improve our steering I checked the brake, cable tension,etc. but could not find anything glaringly wrong. I then decided to add a grease fitting to the rudder post. I purchased a fitting and machined a small spacer to keep the end of the fitting from hitting the rudder post when inserted. Due to the very thin rudder post tube I could not tap the hole but had to hold the fitting in place with a hose clamp that I punched a hole in to allow the fitting to pass through. I pumped in several ounces of grease while working the wheel back and forth and to my glee the wheel began to spin easily. It's the best $3.00 and 1 hour spent on the boat so far. Even the autopilot works easier now.

 

[Scott]

Head Conversion

The head on Short Run our Coronado 28 was orginally a direct discharge, hence was abandoned by the previous owners. We rebuilt the head and installed a holding tank. Now we have all the comforts of home... This may sound trivial however the women folk really appreciate this simple comfort. So I'd have to put that high on our list of improvements.

 

[M.Miller]

Bimini

I added a bimini last summer and what a difference it makes here in ther Texas heat!

 

[Gerry White]

Trickle, trickle, little charger

The trickle charger on my Hughes 38 used to burnthe batteries dry. I cut it off and tried driving 40 miles round trip once weekly and charging. A friend of mine installed a kitchen timer in the 110 line to charger. It is set for 2 hours daily charging. Now I only go to her when I want. Also I installed eggshell foam toppers (Walmart) under all bunk mattresses, sleeps much better.

 

[Bill]

Gary Magnuson

Great idea(throttle control) and it looks really nice....any additional pictures to see the hookup to the motor......?