Hunter 31 (1984) under construction and I have a few more questions. You guys have been a huge help so far. Thanks. Rob I want to replace the bushing/bearing (cutlass?) in front of the prop. It has a little slop. Both prop nuts are off. How do I get the prop off and bearing out? Do I pull the shaft? Is the bushing pressed in? Where do I find a replacment? The stuffing box seemed to wok well on sea trial last year. Is there any maintenance I should do on it while the boat is out of the water? Has anybody found a replacment for the base on the table? New seacocks...plastic or metal? What gauge wire would you use for a steaming/deck light? Where can I find a new mast plug?
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Might help!
I am a new to me H31 owner as well. The cutlass bearing on mine is also sloppy. From what I can see by looking at it there are two set screws on the port side of the hanger. I think the shaft has to come out. West marine sells them for about 75 or 80. Please anyone correct if I'm wrong. Feel free to email me so we can chat. gr8_2_av8@hotmail.com
I am a new to me H31 owner as well. The cutlass bearing on mine is also sloppy. From what I can see by looking at it there are two set screws on the port side of the hanger. I think the shaft has to come out. West marine sells them for about 75 or 80. Please anyone correct if I'm wrong. Feel free to email me so we can chat. gr8_2_av8@hotmail.com
D
Daryl
H31 Followup
I change the cutlass bearing on my h34 myself. It can be a difficult task without the right tools. A few professionals have a tool that can press the bearing out of the strut with the shaft in place. You'll also need a prop puller to remove the prop. Many do it yourself types end up removing the shaft and running a hack saw blade through the bearing from the insode to get it out. To pull the shaft you need to remove the rudder or take the strut off the hull. You also need to take the coupling off the shaft at the transmission. Almost any marine supply joint can get the cutlass bearing if you tell them the size. If you are into that stuff I'd change the flax in the stuffing box and replace it with teflon type. It's 3/16" flax. If you have the original Hunter gate valve replace them with bronze ball seacock valves. I'd avoid the plastic ones. When I rewired my mast I used 12 gauge wire for the anchor light and 14 gauge for the steaming light. The plug inside the base of the mast is a common source of problems and I added a buss bar inside the boat and made all my connections there. No help on your table question, Have fun!
I change the cutlass bearing on my h34 myself. It can be a difficult task without the right tools. A few professionals have a tool that can press the bearing out of the strut with the shaft in place. You'll also need a prop puller to remove the prop. Many do it yourself types end up removing the shaft and running a hack saw blade through the bearing from the insode to get it out. To pull the shaft you need to remove the rudder or take the strut off the hull. You also need to take the coupling off the shaft at the transmission. Almost any marine supply joint can get the cutlass bearing if you tell them the size. If you are into that stuff I'd change the flax in the stuffing box and replace it with teflon type. It's 3/16" flax. If you have the original Hunter gate valve replace them with bronze ball seacock valves. I'd avoid the plastic ones. When I rewired my mast I used 12 gauge wire for the anchor light and 14 gauge for the steaming light. The plug inside the base of the mast is a common source of problems and I added a buss bar inside the boat and made all my connections there. No help on your table question, Have fun!
Stuff box and cutlass at opposite ends.
The stuffing box is just behind the transmission. These are the two nylon nuts. They normally contain a flax material that is wrapped around the shaft (about 3 rings). Then the nut that you unscrew holds the packing in place, which in turn keeps the water from leaking into the boat. This is basically like an old fashion faucet. There are newer and better materials that you should look at (check out your W/M Catalog). Another option is a Shaft Seal. They cost about $200 but never need adjusting. The cutlass bearing is in the strut (on the prop end of the shaft). You would be better off having a yard do this for you. They have a tool that will press the bearing out of the strut. You may expect about 2 hours in labor if you had them do the stuffing box and the cutlass. The bearing is about $60. If you try to remove the bearing and mess up the strut you are looking at another $200 for a replacment. All of these items can be handled yourself. You just need to decide what it is worth to save $100-150 <maybe>
The stuffing box is just behind the transmission. These are the two nylon nuts. They normally contain a flax material that is wrapped around the shaft (about 3 rings). Then the nut that you unscrew holds the packing in place, which in turn keeps the water from leaking into the boat. This is basically like an old fashion faucet. There are newer and better materials that you should look at (check out your W/M Catalog). Another option is a Shaft Seal. They cost about $200 but never need adjusting. The cutlass bearing is in the strut (on the prop end of the shaft). You would be better off having a yard do this for you. They have a tool that will press the bearing out of the strut. You may expect about 2 hours in labor if you had them do the stuffing box and the cutlass. The bearing is about $60. If you try to remove the bearing and mess up the strut you are looking at another $200 for a replacment. All of these items can be handled yourself. You just need to decide what it is worth to save $100-150 <maybe>
S
Steve deForest
Same issues
My Hunter 31 is in need of cutlass bearing replacement as well. I am tempted to try the work myself but will most likely have someone do it for me. Our local mechanic suggested moving the engine and pulling the shaft inside the boat to get it out of the strut. He says that this is really not a big deal and the fact that I already have engine alignment issues, I might go with him. I'll let you know how it goes. As far as the pedestal base, I went to our local RV motorhome dealer and he ordered the exact replacement for the base as well as the pedestal. Hope this will help.
My Hunter 31 is in need of cutlass bearing replacement as well. I am tempted to try the work myself but will most likely have someone do it for me. Our local mechanic suggested moving the engine and pulling the shaft inside the boat to get it out of the strut. He says that this is really not a big deal and the fact that I already have engine alignment issues, I might go with him. I'll let you know how it goes. As far as the pedestal base, I went to our local RV motorhome dealer and he ordered the exact replacement for the base as well as the pedestal. Hope this will help.
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