Hi John, It is hard to see what is really going on in the pictures here, but a few thoughts. The head from the picture looks pretty good from what I can see. Check the head in two ways when you get back to the boat. Take a 5’-0” straight edge and place it under the head of the bulk head. See if you have a drop in it first. Then check for stress cracks on the cabin right by the ends of the head (wood support) at each end up where the fiberglass radius starts on the cabin . Check also on the bulk head where it is bolted through the hull flange into the bulk head. See if the bulk head is loose against the hull. What might be going on is the bulk head itself is moving inward at the floor at the doorposts. Which would keep pressure in the center of the head and not letting it drop. But it would bow the rest of the bulk head aft or forward. It is really hard to keep a radius tight (as in the bulk head sides against the fiberglass hull) if the live load is pushing down ward from the mast. I have been studying this for 6 months now on how to keep things from flexing or moving out of the radius points. Unless you support the bulk head 360 degrees. Something as simple as a spreader installed between the bottom of the doorposts. The stress cracks are mostly caused from the fiberglass flexing under loads. In this flexing the glass itself breaks, leaving the resin in tack for a short period of time. More flexing… the resin cracks. So if you find stress cracks by the bulk head , you have to much movement. So what can you do you ask? Well a lot in fact. Let me share what I am doing and maybe that will help. I am pulling all the factory bulk head systems totally out. I size a new head piece, new side panels and stronger door posts. All very easy to do, as you have the existing pieces to help for a pattern. In trying to find a good fix for this problem, I went to the higher end fiberglass sail boat sites. In there design they tightly fit their bulk heads to the hull and the cabin. Then bolt the bulk heads in with epoxy, but here is the key. They layup 3 layers of fiberglass mat all the way around the bulk head at the inside corners of all surfaces. What this just did, was take a bulk head 3/8” - 1/2” - 3/4” plywood and made the bulk head 6” to 8” at the load point or foot print where it sits on the hull on all surfaces. They also fiberglassed the bulk head panel complete as well. John, I am just finishing the cockpit bulk head using their system and it is believability strong. It is day and night from what it was like before I started. Remember our boats are only 27 feet long, things would be different if we had larger boats…much larger boats. I hope to be totally done with the cockpit bulk head this week end and I will send you the pictures. Knowing that the mast bulk head will be built the same way. Don’t worry John, it is all do able, there are so many guys who have reinforced their bulk heads in this group that the information is great. Ric has some great pictures of his redo, as others do as well. I am sure we can help you with this little problem. Larry Sent from Windows MailFrom: n4lbl alan.schulman@... [AlbinVega]Sent: Monday, August 25, 2014 9:40 AMTo: n4lbl alan.schulman@... [AlbinVega]
Hi Larry & all.See Album: Breakaway Bulkheads Album: Breakaway Bulkheads Breakaway Bulkheads Up DirectView SideView-2 SideView Generated by album
from MarginalHacks
on Mon Aug 25 17:31:57 2014 View on jkcray.maths.ul.ie Preview by Yahoo for 3 slightly blurry photos of starboard bulkhead.You\'ll need to download & rotate as appropriate.The vertical batten was fitted with the intention of stiffening he bulkhead but I think it is so light that it has very little effect.The photo DirectView suggests that the top of the vertical batten (and indeed the "doorpost" at inboard side of bulkhead is distorted to starboard/outboard at top.I didn\'t see this on visual inspection - I used a phone camera so maybe lens distortion.I check carefully when I go to boat again.John V1447 Breakaway