Since there are no bow cleats, chocks or mooring bit on the H23, what does one do to secure the mooring pennant to the boat on a Hunter 23? There is the anchor rode connection in the anchor well, do I use that? And what do you use for chafing protection? A photo would be most helpfull. Thanks in advance. John
Mooring Pennant configurations
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Since there are no bow cleats, chocks or mooring bit on the H23, what does one do to secure the mooring pennant to the boat on a Hunter 23? There is the anchor rode connection in the anchor well, do I use that? And what do you use for chafing protection? A photo would be most helpfull. Thanks in advance. John
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Here is an idea..
attach a 5/8" line to the bow eye then secure it to the mooring pennent(about 4 feet). Run a second backup line from the mooring pennent to the bow cleat (slacked). This way you can prevent chafe on deck and have a back up should it break. Use a boathook to grab the pennent and untie as needed. Just a thought, as I do not moor my boat, but I do use the bow eye in my slip.
attach a 5/8" line to the bow eye then secure it to the mooring pennent(about 4 feet). Run a second backup line from the mooring pennent to the bow cleat (slacked). This way you can prevent chafe on deck and have a back up should it break. Use a boathook to grab the pennent and untie as needed. Just a thought, as I do not moor my boat, but I do use the bow eye in my slip.
Here is an idea..
attach a 5/8" line to the bow eye then secure it to the mooring pennent(about 4 feet). Run a second backup line from the mooring pennent to the bow cleat (slacked). This way you can prevent chafe on deck and have a back up should it break. Use a boathook to grab the pennent and untie as needed. Just a thought, as I do not moor my boat, but I do use the bow eye in my slip.
attach a 5/8" line to the bow eye then secure it to the mooring pennent(about 4 feet). Run a second backup line from the mooring pennent to the bow cleat (slacked). This way you can prevent chafe on deck and have a back up should it break. Use a boathook to grab the pennent and untie as needed. Just a thought, as I do not moor my boat, but I do use the bow eye in my slip.
Install a Cleat...
...on your boat. I think there should be one. Just be sure to use either a backing plate or large washers when you install it. And if anybody rafts with you or shares a mooring, let them take the pennant. I wouldn't trust the cleat with anything bigger than your boat on the mooring. What do you do when you anchor?
...on your boat. I think there should be one. Just be sure to use either a backing plate or large washers when you install it. And if anybody rafts with you or shares a mooring, let them take the pennant. I wouldn't trust the cleat with anything bigger than your boat on the mooring. What do you do when you anchor?
Install a Cleat...
...on your boat. I think there should be one. Just be sure to use either a backing plate or large washers when you install it. And if anybody rafts with you or shares a mooring, let them take the pennant. I wouldn't trust the cleat with anything bigger than your boat on the mooring. What do you do when you anchor?
...on your boat. I think there should be one. Just be sure to use either a backing plate or large washers when you install it. And if anybody rafts with you or shares a mooring, let them take the pennant. I wouldn't trust the cleat with anything bigger than your boat on the mooring. What do you do when you anchor?
cleat
I put a cleat on my bow between the anchor locker and hatch for my dock lines. it will work~
I put a cleat on my bow between the anchor locker and hatch for my dock lines. it will work~
Bow cleat here also, but...
I have a large metal cleat through-bolted to the center of the foredeck just aft of the anchor locker on my H23. I thought it was standard. I guess not. Why not make a mooring bridle? Slide some vinyl tubing (or some other form of chafe protection) over a length of 3/8 inch dockline. This line must be long enough to be made fast on the bow cleat on the port side and go all the way around the bow to be made fast on the starboard side. Slide an anchor shackle over the dockline (pick a size that will slde freely on the chafe-protected line). Tie a 6 to 8 ft length of of 3/8-inch anchor line to the bolt of the anchor shackle. Secure the ends of the chafe-protected dockline to your bow cleats to form a bridle. The shackle should slide freely on the chafe protection. To make up to the mooring, tie off the free end of the anchor line on the shackle to the eye on the mooring pennant. If you have to slip the mooring in a real hurry, undo either end of the bridle from the deck. The bridle will remain attached to the boat on the opposite cleat and the shackle will still be tied to the eye of your mooring pennant. Come to think of it, you could probably just run the bridle through the eye of the pennant... Peter H23 "Raven"
I have a large metal cleat through-bolted to the center of the foredeck just aft of the anchor locker on my H23. I thought it was standard. I guess not. Why not make a mooring bridle? Slide some vinyl tubing (or some other form of chafe protection) over a length of 3/8 inch dockline. This line must be long enough to be made fast on the bow cleat on the port side and go all the way around the bow to be made fast on the starboard side. Slide an anchor shackle over the dockline (pick a size that will slde freely on the chafe-protected line). Tie a 6 to 8 ft length of of 3/8-inch anchor line to the bolt of the anchor shackle. Secure the ends of the chafe-protected dockline to your bow cleats to form a bridle. The shackle should slide freely on the chafe protection. To make up to the mooring, tie off the free end of the anchor line on the shackle to the eye on the mooring pennant. If you have to slip the mooring in a real hurry, undo either end of the bridle from the deck. The bridle will remain attached to the boat on the opposite cleat and the shackle will still be tied to the eye of your mooring pennant. Come to think of it, you could probably just run the bridle through the eye of the pennant... Peter H23 "Raven"
Chocks
Thanks Peter and everyone. One last question Peter, do you have chocks on each side of the bow to keep the lines from the bow pulpit? John
Thanks Peter and everyone. One last question Peter, do you have chocks on each side of the bow to keep the lines from the bow pulpit? John
Hi Chief
No I don't, and I have to admit that's an excellent question. I rarely moor out, so cafe is not a concern for me. However, I can see that anyone leaving their boat on a mooring would want to do something about that. Hmmmm.... Peter H23 "Raven"
No I don't, and I have to admit that's an excellent question. I rarely moor out, so cafe is not a concern for me. However, I can see that anyone leaving their boat on a mooring would want to do something about that. Hmmmm.... Peter H23 "Raven"
I hate...
...having to pull a pennant on deck that is covered with all kinds of growth. To eliminate this problem I rigged a short length of line that runs from the deck cleat through the mooring pennant loop and back to the cleat. To leave the mooring I simply release one end of the short line and the mooring pennant never has to come on-board. If you don't want to install a poorly backed deck cleat you can always use the mast base. It is exceedingly strong and can easily handle any load the boat can deliver. This is a great technique for tying up during severe storms or hurricanes.
...having to pull a pennant on deck that is covered with all kinds of growth. To eliminate this problem I rigged a short length of line that runs from the deck cleat through the mooring pennant loop and back to the cleat. To leave the mooring I simply release one end of the short line and the mooring pennant never has to come on-board. If you don't want to install a poorly backed deck cleat you can always use the mast base. It is exceedingly strong and can easily handle any load the boat can deliver. This is a great technique for tying up during severe storms or hurricanes.
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