Mooring lines

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Jun 7, 2004
944
Birch Bay Washington
For more stretch, try this

per Brion Toss, you can weave, serve, or whatever the proper term is to put a length of bungee cord inside of the three strands of your dock line. It makes it really stretch nicely and does not weaken the line. It probably is a good idea to put a few stitches through the bungee and wrap the line around the area at the ends of the bungeed area. I do not know a way to do this to braided line since I have never tried it but it should work too.
 
Jun 5, 1997
659
Coleman scanoe Irwin (ID)
knots, splices, braids and plaits

This is a complex, challenging thread which forced me to do a fair amount of research in order to verify that my understanding of this important problem was not based on poorly remembered facts or preconceived notions. Here is a brief summary of my newly updated understanding of some of the key issues involved. Non-constrictor type knots such as the figure eight and the bowline, especially when tied "on a bight" as mentioned by the original poster, indeed appear to be the best knot choices to preserve dock line or anchor rode strength. These rather bulky knots keep the bending radius of the rope as large as possible (compared to the rope's own radius) and avoid severe pinching. The fact that this becomes easier to achieve a better ratio between rope diameter and bending radius if the line is relatively would seem to provide one of the main arguments for using "double braid" nylon (i.e. a nylon braid mantle over a nylon braid core). Since double braid has about 25 % higher breaking strength than 3-strand of the same diameter it may allow one to size down one or two steps. On top of that, double braid has higher chafe resistance and far less tendency to kink and form spontaneous knots when being paid out than 3-strand. Multi-plait nylon (8-strand) rope shares some of these desirable characteristics but provides only marginally higher strength compared with 3-strand. However, it is much easier to splice than double braid. The "solid braid" mentioned by the original poster falls into the same category with regard to handling and breaking strength as "multi-plait" but has lower stretch and is hard or impossible to splice according to several sources. The "low stretch" reputation of some nylon kernmantle braids derives from the fact that they have straight fiber instead of braided kerns (cores). Moreover, these types of braids are said to be very sensitive to bending and pinching. A special version of that type of braid, viz. with relatively short core fibers, is still being used in "dynamic" climbing ropes which are built to be discarded after one or more hard falls and are totally unsuitable as docklines or anchor rodes. Although a proper splice around a comparatively large thimble is generally recognized to produce less strength loss than a knot, this advantage can only be maintained if the other end of the dockline or anchor rode is tied off around a relatively large diameter bollard, cleat or samson post without any sharp bending or severe pinching. Moreover, any chocks, fairleads or toerails the line touches in between need to meet the same requirements. If this cannot be realized one might as well save oneself the trouble or cost of splicing docklines and just use proper knots and hitches on both ends. Have fun! Flying Dutchman
 
Oct 25, 2005
735
Catalina 30 Banderas Bay, Mexico
Bungee in 3-strand ...

I've tried the bungee in 3-strand and bungee in braid. It didn't work well for me. The bungee in 3-strand was ok for about 6 months. Once the strands chafed the bungee cover the bungee strands started to break and the dock lines looked like baggy-wrinkle with the rubber strands sticking out like a bad haircut. The nature of braided line causes the diameter to reduce under load. This squeezes the bungee inside rather than stretch it. The lines look like well fed snakes with the bungee inside and they don't stretch much. I suppose the system could work with 3-strand if you played with relative sizes until you got it right, but the rope would still chafe the bungee core every time the load changed. I've gone back to good old Nylon 3-strand for me permanent dock lines (spliced to my dock) and Nylon double braid for the lines that stay on the boat.
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,982
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
And then

there's the easier way to buy one of those rubber thingies with loops at the end, tie the dockline to them and you're done. Stu
 
Sep 21, 2005
297
Catalina 22 Henderson Bay, NY
Rode question

I was just reading about yale nylon brait line. Has anyone tryed this for anchor rode? It sounds as though it has some nice habits. Dale
 
Jun 15, 2005
9
- - Lake Whitney, TX USA
Thanks to all posters

Ross, It's inexpensive solid braid (Lehigh) - I'm not sure if it is nylon - I'll need to return to the place I bought it to know more. I've tried some inexpensive 1/2" laid dock lines, but had trouble with chafing almost immediately, which led me to believe that 5/8" or better was necessary. This certainly has been a lively and informative discussion. I now have plenty of resources at my disposal. Thanks to all posters for offering information.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Drake 57 thanks for

comming back. Now I know the type or rope you're talking about. Good old hardware store solid braid. with that you form the loop that you want with a tail about a foot long. Get out a palm and needle and seize the throat of the loop and then take long(about 1 inch) stitches down the length of the tail seize the end of the tail to the standing part and stitch back uo the tail following your first line of stitches but filling in the gaps. take two or three stitches close together and knot the twine close to the rope. This is much neater than a knot and will be stronger.
 
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