My mooring is laying on the ground at Lee's Park and will be put in the water later this month. I went over to inspect and was surprised to see significant corrosion for about a 2 foot length of chain in the middle. The corrosion has worn at least half the diameter of the links so I won't go another year in that condition. We were told to get 15' of 3/8" chain but the mooring sits in water that is about half that depth. We have a concrete block (about 2,000 lbs) and it sits on a sand bottom and doesn't settle in the mud. The depth is only about 8' so about half the chain normally rests on the bottom. I'm guessing the corrosion is occurring about where the chain normally rests on the bottom but is lifted slightly for small waves. I suppose because that is where most of the friction would be working when boats create little waves during calm conditions, which is most of the time. I was surprised to see this much corrosion since the chain has only been in use for 3 seasons. Obviously, we are in fresh water and there is no stray current, as there is no power on any of the docks anywhere near this marina. Is this normal? I was thinking about cutting out the section with the worst corrosion and splicing the new ends together with a galvanized shackle. I'm not cheap, but there is plenty of chain left and I am a little pragmatic!
- Status
The wear you see is perfectly normal
The wear occurs due to wave action and in tidal water the action of the tides. I agree that cutting out the bad part and attaching with a high quality American-made shackle would be a reasonable solution. Stay away from the Chinese shackle junk. Don't forget to secure the shackle pin with 2-3 SEPARATE loops of monel seizing wire in a figure-eight configuration. Do not use wire ties for this task. Inspect again next year. Save your pocket change for a new mooring chain. Edited to add 'separate' above.
The wear occurs due to wave action and in tidal water the action of the tides. I agree that cutting out the bad part and attaching with a high quality American-made shackle would be a reasonable solution. Stay away from the Chinese shackle junk. Don't forget to secure the shackle pin with 2-3 SEPARATE loops of monel seizing wire in a figure-eight configuration. Do not use wire ties for this task. Inspect again next year. Save your pocket change for a new mooring chain. Edited to add 'separate' above.
It does sound like you sanded away the chain on the bottom
You might try putting a float on the chain this time about 1/3rd of the way up. It will be under water and will get a slime and growth on it, unless You paint it, but it should keep your chain from wearing away in the future. Remember though, a small float, only enough to buoy the chain, as it deducts from your mooring weight.
You might try putting a float on the chain this time about 1/3rd of the way up. It will be under water and will get a slime and growth on it, unless You paint it, but it should keep your chain from wearing away in the future. Remember though, a small float, only enough to buoy the chain, as it deducts from your mooring weight.
I agree with Rich S.
When I used to own a mooring, it always would wear right at the point it rested in the mud. (Maybe it was the wave action. But it was only used on weekends.) Why? I don't know, but if I knew, I could retire on the royalties.
When I used to own a mooring, it always would wear right at the point it rested in the mud. (Maybe it was the wave action. But it was only used on weekends.) Why? I don't know, but if I knew, I could retire on the royalties.
Why does it wear? The reason is......
in tidal waters the chain moves up and down twice a day. The links rub against each other causing the removal of the galvanizing and the wear. Wave action adds to the up-and-down motion just like the tides create. The rest of the chain is either just hanging in the water or lying in or on the bottom surface and those portions of the chain are not subject to the same link-against-link motion. The life of the chain can be extended by removing it from the mooring buoy and attaching a line that is longer than the depth of the water at higher high tide to a light-weight winter mooring stake. This allows the entire chain to drop onto the bottom and the light-weight stake causes less motion of the chain over the winter. Thus during the off-season the chain wear is minimized. This wear is one reason why towns require that moorings be inspected on a regular schedule. I seem to remember that Bristol, RI requires inspection either every 2 or 3 years.
in tidal waters the chain moves up and down twice a day. The links rub against each other causing the removal of the galvanizing and the wear. Wave action adds to the up-and-down motion just like the tides create. The rest of the chain is either just hanging in the water or lying in or on the bottom surface and those portions of the chain are not subject to the same link-against-link motion. The life of the chain can be extended by removing it from the mooring buoy and attaching a line that is longer than the depth of the water at higher high tide to a light-weight winter mooring stake. This allows the entire chain to drop onto the bottom and the light-weight stake causes less motion of the chain over the winter. Thus during the off-season the chain wear is minimized. This wear is one reason why towns require that moorings be inspected on a regular schedule. I seem to remember that Bristol, RI requires inspection either every 2 or 3 years.
Not galvanized chain ...
The explanation for the wear sounds right. I didn't buy galvanized chain, considering it is submerged all the time. When I replace it, I think I'll give that a try. The marina called me this morning to see if I want a heavier block for my anchor. It seems that too many moorings have been dragging in recent years (mostly Catalina 22's and similar sized boats) during the higher winds. They made a much larger block (than their normal size) for our boat 3 years ago and we haven't dragged the anchor. Ours is about 3' x 2' x 2' concrete block which weighs probably just under a ton, which could be a little light considering the bottom is sand and the block doesn't settle in. But it seems that they have made some that are larger, but the funny thing is that the manager doesn't think he has equipment that can lift their new blocks!
The explanation for the wear sounds right. I didn't buy galvanized chain, considering it is submerged all the time. When I replace it, I think I'll give that a try. The marina called me this morning to see if I want a heavier block for my anchor. It seems that too many moorings have been dragging in recent years (mostly Catalina 22's and similar sized boats) during the higher winds. They made a much larger block (than their normal size) for our boat 3 years ago and we haven't dragged the anchor. Ours is about 3' x 2' x 2' concrete block which weighs probably just under a ton, which could be a little light considering the bottom is sand and the block doesn't settle in. But it seems that they have made some that are larger, but the funny thing is that the manager doesn't think he has equipment that can lift their new blocks!
Scott, If they offer you a bigger block take it
But if you can try to keep the one you have and chain the two together. The state of WA has used double blocks for their moorings in state parks with good success for some time now ,of course they are much bigger blocks. In some parks they are now going to install those screw type anchors to see how they work. from all i've heard they are great. Joe S
But if you can try to keep the one you have and chain the two together. The state of WA has used double blocks for their moorings in state parks with good success for some time now ,of course they are much bigger blocks. In some parks they are now going to install those screw type anchors to see how they work. from all i've heard they are great. Joe S
- Status