Recently purchased a 2003 326. Survey indicated small amount of moisture in rudder. He indicated it was not a huge problem now, but recommended drilling a small hole in base of rudder to let water drain out before I drop in the spring. Before dropping he said to insert threaded insert into hole than screw in machine screw. Of course all will be sealed with sealant. Has anyone heard of doing this.
Moisture in rudder question
- Thread starter bigsick
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Allowing the water to drain and thereby dry is certainly your first priority and doing it so as to allow future drain access seems reasonable. I would also suggest you consider how and why water entered the rudder and eliminating the cause as a more important step given the fact that over time the reinforcing webbing welds holding the rudder to the rudder shaft can rust, weaken and eventually fail. In other words, you don't want this to be a regular event.
Your rudder is foam filled. And from what I have seen from open rudders(including my own) there is also a lot of void. I drilled mine every winter after layup. I drilled a row of 1/4" holes about six inches above the bottom, both sides. The rudder is solid at the bottom so you have to go higher to hit foam. I drill with an upward slant. Then before spring splash I mix some thickened epoxy to fill the holes. I have to tape over the holes or the epoxy will run out before it hardens.
The rudder will absorb some water but the main point of ingress is at the entry of the rudder stock into the rudder. Check that and epoxy that joint if it looks suspect.
P.S. just read Don's post(he beat me) and want to comment on the innards. I recently had mine completely rebuilt but using the original post and welded panels. They were like new(1979). I attribute this to having been in fresh water until 2007. The rebuild was to replace the foam inside a new waterproof skin.
The rudder will absorb some water but the main point of ingress is at the entry of the rudder stock into the rudder. Check that and epoxy that joint if it looks suspect.
P.S. just read Don's post(he beat me) and want to comment on the innards. I recently had mine completely rebuilt but using the original post and welded panels. They were like new(1979). I attribute this to having been in fresh water until 2007. The rebuild was to replace the foam inside a new waterproof skin.
Common Problem
This is fairly common in Foss Foam rudders. Egress is from the stock entry point as pointed out in an earlier post. The drilling of holes is necessary at haulout, especially in colder climes. This helps to drain the water to prevent freezing and expansion. Thickened epoxy works well in the spring. Keeping on top of it will work for a period of time. If you are in saltwater I would keep an eye out for internal corrosion.
This is fairly common in Foss Foam rudders. Egress is from the stock entry point as pointed out in an earlier post. The drilling of holes is necessary at haulout, especially in colder climes. This helps to drain the water to prevent freezing and expansion. Thickened epoxy works well in the spring. Keeping on top of it will work for a period of time. If you are in saltwater I would keep an eye out for internal corrosion.
Rudder drain
Thank you all for input. How deep should holes be, how far up from bottom should I drill, how many on each side of rudder?
Thank you all for input. How deep should holes be, how far up from bottom should I drill, how many on each side of rudder?
Probably six holes in a row and four to six inches up from the bottom. If you hit something solid at four inches then move up. The depth should account for the upward angle. The width of the rudder obvously changes from fore to aft. You want to go through to the other side. If you come out the other side it won't hurt anything. I made a row on each side. I am going to guess that you will see very little drainage from a 2003 rudder.
I also drill holes all the way through my rudder when hauling out every two years. As a side note, my Hunter manual states that a light colored bottom paint is to be used on these foam filled rudders. If not, expansion from exposure to sunlight might cause the rudder to split. I use Blue VC17. To prevent problems I cover mine with an old white bedsheet and tie it secure. Never have had a problem with this method.
Jeff, do you drill holes straight through or at an angle. What do you fill holes with in the spring. How high and how many holes do you drill. Thank you for your help.
I concur with all the above. I drill 2 1/4" diameter holes at the base my rudder on my 1985 Hunter 28.5 every fall after I pull it. It usually drips small amounts of water. I use two part epoxy putty to fill the holes again in spring. Previous owner had the rudder split on him and had to be rebuilt, so its cheap insurance.
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