We just love the roominess of the H26 cockpit except when we anchor or dock we keep running into the tiller handle. Ours is the aluminium tiller with a couple of curves and we have a safety rail across the back that does not allow us to lift it out of the way. I saw one post a while back where the guy cut the tiller in 2 then inserted a wood dowel I can't find it now? Is there a better solution that you folks may suggest or do safety issues override messing with the tiller? Thanks Phil...
Modifying the tiller to expand cockpit use
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RickW
Hey Rick - I see you've now met my sailing buddy, Phil! One of the first things I did was replace his tiller bolt with one with a longer shoulder, so that's done already. Phil is also going to make a rudder lock like yours, as I did last year. Don't you risk dropping the tiller bolt and wing nut when you remove and replace the tiller in a bouncy boat? ...RickM...
Hey Rick - I see you've now met my sailing buddy, Phil! One of the first things I did was replace his tiller bolt with one with a longer shoulder, so that's done already. Phil is also going to make a rudder lock like yours, as I did last year. Don't you risk dropping the tiller bolt and wing nut when you remove and replace the tiller in a bouncy boat? ...RickM...
Yep
That was why I drilled an additional hole in the rudder plates and put a spare. Make sure it is out of the way of the rudder when it pivots. I also drilled a hole in the bolt and inserted a split ring to keep it from falling off. It might be easy to just throw a spare in the boat but I wanted to make sure I could find it when I needed it.
That was why I drilled an additional hole in the rudder plates and put a spare. Make sure it is out of the way of the rudder when it pivots. I also drilled a hole in the bolt and inserted a split ring to keep it from falling off. It might be easy to just throw a spare in the boat but I wanted to make sure I could find it when I needed it.
Robert Fliegal did it with his 260.
I sailed it, no issues, BUT the rudder of the 26 can be overpowered easily (especially when it creeps up) SO not sure if it would hold up as well on a 26. He used hardwood and it takes up the entire diameter of the tiller. It felt just as solid as the origional but his was intended to free up space when using an auto-pilot. The Idea of a wing nut sounds interesting, how do you secure the rudder from moving. alan
I sailed it, no issues, BUT the rudder of the 26 can be overpowered easily (especially when it creeps up) SO not sure if it would hold up as well on a 26. He used hardwood and it takes up the entire diameter of the tiller. It felt just as solid as the origional but his was intended to free up space when using an auto-pilot. The Idea of a wing nut sounds interesting, how do you secure the rudder from moving. alan
Use carriage bolts
When the four bolts that go through the SS flange into the aluminum tiller began to get loose, I noticed the threads in the square aluminum tiller head were stripping out. So, I drilled out the threads and replaced the four bolts with two SS carriage bolts that go clear through the head and end with wing nuts (see photo.) I had to square the holes on one side of the SS flange with a file so the carriage bolts fit in tight and do not turn, but the whole process was fast and simple. I can now remove the aluminum tiller without having to fuss with the retract lines or worry about losing the bolts. It does make for lots more room in the cockpit. I just have to figure where to store the loose tiller. Brigg Franklin, s/v Wand’rin Star USCG Licensed Marine Officer ASA Certified Sailing Instructor www.northstarsailing.org 45° 40.936' N, 122° 34.936' W
When the four bolts that go through the SS flange into the aluminum tiller began to get loose, I noticed the threads in the square aluminum tiller head were stripping out. So, I drilled out the threads and replaced the four bolts with two SS carriage bolts that go clear through the head and end with wing nuts (see photo.) I had to square the holes on one side of the SS flange with a file so the carriage bolts fit in tight and do not turn, but the whole process was fast and simple. I can now remove the aluminum tiller without having to fuss with the retract lines or worry about losing the bolts. It does make for lots more room in the cockpit. I just have to figure where to store the loose tiller. Brigg Franklin, s/v Wand’rin Star USCG Licensed Marine Officer ASA Certified Sailing Instructor www.northstarsailing.org 45° 40.936' N, 122° 34.936' W
Brigg - 260 vs 26
As can be seen in Rick Webb's photos, the H26 rudder is completely different from the H260. There's nothing but water below if you drop a bolt. The answer to Alan's question about securing the rudder with the tiller removed is in the same set of pictures. Rick's rudder lock work's great - I built one just like it last year (Thanks, Rick!). I wonder if one could just attach a a couple of lanyards, one to the bolt and one to the wing nut, and secure them to the rudder plate on each side. No more worries of dropping them. I don't know about you guys, but there's already enough tools and parts under 20 feet of water under my boat. And a towel, and a T-shirt, and... ...RickM...
As can be seen in Rick Webb's photos, the H26 rudder is completely different from the H260. There's nothing but water below if you drop a bolt. The answer to Alan's question about securing the rudder with the tiller removed is in the same set of pictures. Rick's rudder lock work's great - I built one just like it last year (Thanks, Rick!). I wonder if one could just attach a a couple of lanyards, one to the bolt and one to the wing nut, and secure them to the rudder plate on each side. No more worries of dropping them. I don't know about you guys, but there's already enough tools and parts under 20 feet of water under my boat. And a towel, and a T-shirt, and... ...RickM...
26 Tiller
The tiller on the H26 is too long, I sawed 6 in off of it and it works great, I have a tiller ext. and a simrad 2000 auto pilot also. Ken
The tiller on the H26 is too long, I sawed 6 in off of it and it works great, I have a tiller ext. and a simrad 2000 auto pilot also. Ken
SS Quick Release Pin
I like the idea shown in the link. Use a Stainless Steel quick release pin. Should also use a stainless wire to attach the pin to the tiller bracket or the tiller, so you don't lose the pin. Can't seem to get the link thingy to work. Go here, and locate "ny!till.jpg" for a pic: http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/pictures/ Jack
I like the idea shown in the link. Use a Stainless Steel quick release pin. Should also use a stainless wire to attach the pin to the tiller bracket or the tiller, so you don't lose the pin. Can't seem to get the link thingy to work. Go here, and locate "ny!till.jpg" for a pic: http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/pictures/ Jack
Seems like a lot of extra work
I just raise the tiller up, hang the tiller extention over the rear rail, and use a short bungie to hold it against the rear rail. It is out of the way, fully assembled, and the rudder stays almost strait back and out of the way of the motor and swim ladder.
I just raise the tiller up, hang the tiller extention over the rear rail, and use a short bungie to hold it against the rear rail. It is out of the way, fully assembled, and the rudder stays almost strait back and out of the way of the motor and swim ladder.
Dick's idea and another
Dick's idea, in combination with RickW's rudder lock (which a person should have anyway) should certainly give some relief. Here's a new idea. It may apply more to the H23.5 (1995 or earlier) than the H26 because the H23.5 has only a single horizontal bar on the transom rail (see the link to RickW's picture in a previous post of mine). The H26 and the 1996 H23.5 have a higher transom rail that has two horizontal bars. Anyway, my bar is below knee hight and nearly useless. I sail with my mast crutch in place so there is something to grab on to. When I added stern rail seats I put a lifeline between the tops of the two seats across the transom. I wouldn't totally remove the transom rail, as it holds up the swim ladder and is there to grab in some cases, but what about cutting out a 2 inch section, and putting a sliding SS sleeve over it. Drill a hole for a quick release pin that is secured with a lanyard so it doesn't get lost. Slide the sleeve to open the gap, and then lift the tiller to the nearly vertical position. On a rail with two cross bars, perhaps this would only be necessary on the lower bar, used in combination with Dick's idea and a rudder lock. I'm thinking that having the tiller quickly available is a safety feature if you wake up to find that you've gragged anchor or something. Plus, you don't have to stow it somewhere as when totally removed. ...RickM...
Dick's idea, in combination with RickW's rudder lock (which a person should have anyway) should certainly give some relief. Here's a new idea. It may apply more to the H23.5 (1995 or earlier) than the H26 because the H23.5 has only a single horizontal bar on the transom rail (see the link to RickW's picture in a previous post of mine). The H26 and the 1996 H23.5 have a higher transom rail that has two horizontal bars. Anyway, my bar is below knee hight and nearly useless. I sail with my mast crutch in place so there is something to grab on to. When I added stern rail seats I put a lifeline between the tops of the two seats across the transom. I wouldn't totally remove the transom rail, as it holds up the swim ladder and is there to grab in some cases, but what about cutting out a 2 inch section, and putting a sliding SS sleeve over it. Drill a hole for a quick release pin that is secured with a lanyard so it doesn't get lost. Slide the sleeve to open the gap, and then lift the tiller to the nearly vertical position. On a rail with two cross bars, perhaps this would only be necessary on the lower bar, used in combination with Dick's idea and a rudder lock. I'm thinking that having the tiller quickly available is a safety feature if you wake up to find that you've gragged anchor or something. Plus, you don't have to stow it somewhere as when totally removed. ...RickM...
Not at anchor
I would not consider removing the tiller for cockpit room at anchor. Sometimes you need to get underway quickly. In a slip OK. We swing ours to the side and bungy it to the sternrail. Out of the way, easy to get to.
I would not consider removing the tiller for cockpit room at anchor. Sometimes you need to get underway quickly. In a slip OK. We swing ours to the side and bungy it to the sternrail. Out of the way, easy to get to.
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