Milky motor oil
- Thread starter Casagf66
- Start date
If you've changed the oil once, your done with that. I would NOT add diesel (won't help remove water) or Mystery Oil. Tiny amounts of water--all that remain--will evaporate when the engine comes up to temperature. 0.5-1% water is fairly normal for oil in-use.
Good news all!
Changed the oil twice in a row, used a quart of desiel on the first round, then used a quart of MMO with the second. I went threw two filters and several gallons of oil, but it was well worth it. I can sleep easy knowing I have no more milk in my motor oill. I am one happy Sailor.
Thanks all and happy Thanksgiving
Cheers
Changed the oil twice in a row, used a quart of desiel on the first round, then used a quart of MMO with the second. I went threw two filters and several gallons of oil, but it was well worth it. I can sleep easy knowing I have no more milk in my motor oill. I am one happy Sailor.
Thanks all and happy Thanksgiving
Cheers
With the boat on the hard, running the raw water pump with no water will damage the impeller in seconds and will destroy it in minutes. Without cooling from the heat exchanger the engine will overheat rather quickly. Check to insure the warning lamp and buzzer are working as they will provide a timely warning against damage if the engine is overheating.
Yes, but for an engine that has been out of service or only seen intermittent light use, higher values are very common. It should come down to 0.1% in a few hours of heavy load.
I don't even know how many 10s of thousands of these tests I've run. Used to run a lab.
If you are leaving this boat on the hard all winter, I would FILL the crankcase with diesel. All the way up to cover the crank shaft and bearings. Turn the engine over a few rpm's but DO NOT START IT! Oil to the full mark on the dip stick does not cover all these parts.
It's easy enough to drain the diesel (much cheaper than oil, too) and flush with oil at the beginning of next season. It would be a shame to go to the boat in the spring and find the engine seized. Better safe than sorry. Good luck.
It's easy enough to drain the diesel (much cheaper than oil, too) and flush with oil at the beginning of next season. It would be a shame to go to the boat in the spring and find the engine seized. Better safe than sorry. Good luck.
I believe the raw water pump is driven from the cam in the engine, and if the seal is compromised or if you pressurize the input to the raw water pump you can force water into the motor's crankcase cavity. You need to check with someone a little more knowledgeable on that particular motor.
If your engine was running when you used the garden hose, you should not have gotten any water in the engine. I believe your m50 has an aluminum head. If it has ever been overheated, the head bolts should be re-torqued. I would do a coolant system leak down check. You usually can borrow or rent a tester from Auto Zone or Advanced Auto. If it leaks down with no exterior signs of leakage, it is probably time for a head gasket. If you replace the head gasket, replace the timing belt. The belt must be replaced at a certain number of engine hours or you run the risk of engine failure. Very $$$.