After borrowing and renting boats, we are investing in a 1991 Hunter 30t of our own. It hasn't received much TLC for years, is covered with mildew, and the teak is fence post gray. I'm also trying to remove the old names, and having trouble with the residual adhesive. What's the best way to clean off the mildew, adhesive and shine up teak without damaging the deck and restoring this diamond in the rough to her former glory?
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
K
Ken Palmer
What works for me....
On the mildew: My white non-skid areas on the deck is where mildew will start. I use Tilex that I buy at the grocery store. The white will sparkle after applying, then using a green Scotch-Brite pad. Try to keep off colored areas because of the bleach content of the Tilex. On the teak: You can first try sanding, but I think you will find there are grooves that are dirty. After sanding, I use 2-part Te-Ka, bought at West Marine or Boat/US. I then use Amarol, or the new Boat/US teak sealer which is made by Amarol. You can use oil, but you have to keep oiling. Varnish is beautiful, but labor intensive on applying and maintaining. If you have to clean gray non-skid that is very dirty, I use Soft Scrub from the grocery store. It is abrasive, so use with care. I re-painted the gray non-skid on my H33 and it turned out great. I know you will receive many suggestions, so good luck on your labor of love. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
On the mildew: My white non-skid areas on the deck is where mildew will start. I use Tilex that I buy at the grocery store. The white will sparkle after applying, then using a green Scotch-Brite pad. Try to keep off colored areas because of the bleach content of the Tilex. On the teak: You can first try sanding, but I think you will find there are grooves that are dirty. After sanding, I use 2-part Te-Ka, bought at West Marine or Boat/US. I then use Amarol, or the new Boat/US teak sealer which is made by Amarol. You can use oil, but you have to keep oiling. Varnish is beautiful, but labor intensive on applying and maintaining. If you have to clean gray non-skid that is very dirty, I use Soft Scrub from the grocery store. It is abrasive, so use with care. I re-painted the gray non-skid on my H33 and it turned out great. I know you will receive many suggestions, so good luck on your labor of love. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
A
A.L. ("Jim") Willis Pres of ISLAND GIRL PROD.
Adhesive residue, teak * mildew
I always use my own products to remove adhesive residue, IG ink (or clear which is a bit more potent). The products do need some time to soak, but will not attack the gelcoat. DO NOT USE ACETONE (will dissolve gelcoat). but you can also use a Xylene-based solvent (Goof off is one ). Previous reply was absolutely right about using a bleach-content to kill surface mildew. You can use clorox in (Boat)soapy water. Our products (CLEAR or S.Glow) will prevent mildew forming in the first place.but do not bleach it out like chlorox. WIth regards teak, You do have to sand, but it is porous has mildew and air polution in the pores- use a good teak cleaner then teak bleach (usually based on oxalic acid). I have had good results with Sikkens Cetol, but Armada or Teak Shield are rated better (now banned from West Marine due to focus on cetol) but available elsewhere. I find cetol a bit to orange in color and will be trying Teak Shield (a two part coating that lasts 3 years) when I do my own teak shortly. When sanding the teak, remove fasteners that are there and tape other items with a couple of layers of duct tape (the goof off removes residue from this tape batter than our cleaners). If you use cetol or equivalent alkyde resin based porduct be carefull not to let it get on the gelcoat. If it does, immediately remove (water or IG Pink & water. When thoroughly cured, the only thing that removes it is a scuff pad and Xylene-based solvent (goof off again). thanks Jim Willis
I always use my own products to remove adhesive residue, IG ink (or clear which is a bit more potent). The products do need some time to soak, but will not attack the gelcoat. DO NOT USE ACETONE (will dissolve gelcoat). but you can also use a Xylene-based solvent (Goof off is one ). Previous reply was absolutely right about using a bleach-content to kill surface mildew. You can use clorox in (Boat)soapy water. Our products (CLEAR or S.Glow) will prevent mildew forming in the first place.but do not bleach it out like chlorox. WIth regards teak, You do have to sand, but it is porous has mildew and air polution in the pores- use a good teak cleaner then teak bleach (usually based on oxalic acid). I have had good results with Sikkens Cetol, but Armada or Teak Shield are rated better (now banned from West Marine due to focus on cetol) but available elsewhere. I find cetol a bit to orange in color and will be trying Teak Shield (a two part coating that lasts 3 years) when I do my own teak shortly. When sanding the teak, remove fasteners that are there and tape other items with a couple of layers of duct tape (the goof off removes residue from this tape batter than our cleaners). If you use cetol or equivalent alkyde resin based porduct be carefull not to let it get on the gelcoat. If it does, immediately remove (water or IG Pink & water. When thoroughly cured, the only thing that removes it is a scuff pad and Xylene-based solvent (goof off again). thanks Jim Willis
also try....
West Marine non-skip deck cleaner. I think the bleach and boat soap would be the first treatment. This will also assist in the teak cleanup. The non-skid cleaner seems to get the stuff out of the deck better than the regular boat soap. Once you get the majority of the boat cleaned up use the Soft Scrub on the stubborn spots. I do not use soft scrub on the gelcoat. There are plenty of products to clean that up. Lots of TLC and she will be like new.
West Marine non-skip deck cleaner. I think the bleach and boat soap would be the first treatment. This will also assist in the teak cleanup. The non-skid cleaner seems to get the stuff out of the deck better than the regular boat soap. Once you get the majority of the boat cleaned up use the Soft Scrub on the stubborn spots. I do not use soft scrub on the gelcoat. There are plenty of products to clean that up. Lots of TLC and she will be like new.
S
Stephen Ostrander
scratchy pads
I would avoid using green scratchy pads on gel coat as they will scratch. White scratchy pads are OK. Soft Scrub and Comet Cleanser are also abrasive and will scratch the gel coat. Star Brite Non-Skid Deck Cleaner is good stuff.
I would avoid using green scratchy pads on gel coat as they will scratch. White scratchy pads are OK. Soft Scrub and Comet Cleanser are also abrasive and will scratch the gel coat. Star Brite Non-Skid Deck Cleaner is good stuff.
L
LaDonna Bubak - Planet Catalina
FSR
Fiberglass Stain Remover, available at West Marine, will clean up your gelcoat like new. We bought an old C22 that had sunk in 3 feet of lake mud. Needless to say, much stainage but FSR cleaned it right up. Teak: Use Teak-a A&B to clean the wood. DON'T bother with any other cleaner - I've tried several & none work as well as Teaka & they cost about the same. Use heavy duty chemical gloves (no kitchen gloves here) and I highly recommend goggles. I had some almost splash in my eye once and that would have been BAAAAAD news! I never use it without goggles now. Start with a heavier grit (like 100 or 120) to knock down the grain (it'll be pretty raised after cleaning). Move up to higher grits - you can be anal and use upwards of 400 but 220 will do nicely. Whatever finish you use, look at other boats with that same finish first. Know that Cetol, Armada, West Marine Wood Pro, etc all have a rather opaque finish. Cetol is orange, Armada & Wood Pro are browner but all have a mildly "painty" look. Varnish is a pain to maintain but in Iowa and with the amount of exterior wood on your boat, it might just be worth it. You'll be amazed at how many people will compliment your brightwork. I have varnish and find that twice a year I have to sand and apply another coat or two. Sometimes its only once a year, depending on what's going on and my wood is none the worse for it. And, personally, I get a great deal of satisfaction making my boat look as pretty as possible. Can't think of a better thing to do on a windless day! In regards to the old name, you can try using very high grit sandpaper if all other suggestions fail. I'd start with 600 wet/dry to get the inital "shadow" and then move up to 800 to finish. Be sure to use plenty of water while sanding too! Then buff & polish. Should polish back up to original shine. Good luck! LaDonna
Fiberglass Stain Remover, available at West Marine, will clean up your gelcoat like new. We bought an old C22 that had sunk in 3 feet of lake mud. Needless to say, much stainage but FSR cleaned it right up. Teak: Use Teak-a A&B to clean the wood. DON'T bother with any other cleaner - I've tried several & none work as well as Teaka & they cost about the same. Use heavy duty chemical gloves (no kitchen gloves here) and I highly recommend goggles. I had some almost splash in my eye once and that would have been BAAAAAD news! I never use it without goggles now. Start with a heavier grit (like 100 or 120) to knock down the grain (it'll be pretty raised after cleaning). Move up to higher grits - you can be anal and use upwards of 400 but 220 will do nicely. Whatever finish you use, look at other boats with that same finish first. Know that Cetol, Armada, West Marine Wood Pro, etc all have a rather opaque finish. Cetol is orange, Armada & Wood Pro are browner but all have a mildly "painty" look. Varnish is a pain to maintain but in Iowa and with the amount of exterior wood on your boat, it might just be worth it. You'll be amazed at how many people will compliment your brightwork. I have varnish and find that twice a year I have to sand and apply another coat or two. Sometimes its only once a year, depending on what's going on and my wood is none the worse for it. And, personally, I get a great deal of satisfaction making my boat look as pretty as possible. Can't think of a better thing to do on a windless day! In regards to the old name, you can try using very high grit sandpaper if all other suggestions fail. I'd start with 600 wet/dry to get the inital "shadow" and then move up to 800 to finish. Be sure to use plenty of water while sanding too! Then buff & polish. Should polish back up to original shine. Good luck! LaDonna
- Status
- Not open for further replies.