Just as luck would have it, I get into the middle of the sailing season and find that the galley thru-hull on my Oday 28 is weeping. Not outright leaking, mind you, but water wells up around the nut and the threads, and the plywood backing plate is getting a bit soggy. Only two months until haul-out, and I was planning to sail hard all the rest of the season. I think I know the answer to this, but check me on it anyway. Is it possible to put a temporary fix on this that will last a couple of months, without having to take the boat out of the water? I know I sound lazy or cheap, but it's not the haul-out that worries me. The nearest travel lift is either 1. back up the Chicago River through about 25 bridges or 2. Sail to Waukegan, which is a good six to eight hours. Given the choice I'll sail to Waukegan, but I'd rather stay around Chicago for the next couple of months. Either way it's a day there, a day of repairs, and a day back. I know someone's going to ask me how fast water is accumulating in the bilge, and the truth is I'm not sure. I suspect the bilge is pumping itself out a couple of times a week, and those who know the O28 know that the bilge ain't that big. I'll know more tomorrow as I mopped the bilge dry tonight. If I knew it wouldn't get any worse, I'd leave it until the end of the season, but this seems to be one of those things that "could last 5 minutes, could last 5 years." I don't want to take the chance. Plus, I'm not on shore power so if something does give and the battery runs dry, that's all she wrote. Put too much work, time, and money into her to end it so stupidly. Anyway, thanks for letting me gripe. Looks like Waukegan for the weekend, given fair winds. Unless someone has a better idea...
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Ed
Replacing Thru Hull
I changed a cracked galley underwater thru hull on my 25 while it was in the water. One of those marelon barbed things. Make sure you have everything you need before you start. Take off the hose, bung the nipple or close the seacock. Unscrew the nut and let the mushroom go bye-bye. Bung the hole. Thread some hex nuts on a light cord. Take out the bung and drop the cord through the hull. Make sure you let out enough line. Bung the hole. Take a boat hook and fish the weighted line onto the deck. Thread the line through the new mushroom. Remove the bung and fish the new mushroom up through the hole. Grab the nipple with some vise grips, not too hard. Cut away the cord. Thread the nut onto the new fitting. Use an O ring to seal the mushroom to the hull. I had to pump out the bilge once or twice, but it wasn't anything too hairy. You could also hire a diver to scrub the slime off of your hull and hold the new fitting in place while you screw it down.
I changed a cracked galley underwater thru hull on my 25 while it was in the water. One of those marelon barbed things. Make sure you have everything you need before you start. Take off the hose, bung the nipple or close the seacock. Unscrew the nut and let the mushroom go bye-bye. Bung the hole. Thread some hex nuts on a light cord. Take out the bung and drop the cord through the hull. Make sure you let out enough line. Bung the hole. Take a boat hook and fish the weighted line onto the deck. Thread the line through the new mushroom. Remove the bung and fish the new mushroom up through the hole. Grab the nipple with some vise grips, not too hard. Cut away the cord. Thread the nut onto the new fitting. Use an O ring to seal the mushroom to the hull. I had to pump out the bilge once or twice, but it wasn't anything too hairy. You could also hire a diver to scrub the slime off of your hull and hold the new fitting in place while you screw it down.
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S. Sauer
In-water thru hull replacement
I've replaced an 1 1/4" thru hull by heeling the boat in the slip until thre thru hull was above the water. Take a halyard down to the deck and clip the sheav of a snap shackle over the halyard; attach a 15'-20' dock line to the snatch block with the other end fastened to the base of the mast. Now fasten the halyard to a piling in an adjacent slip abeam the mast and crank in the halyard on a winch. this bridle effect with a snatch block prevents having a lot of lateral load on the mast head sheav but will easily heel the boat over. Now you can remove the hose, seacock and retaining nut on the thru hull from inside the boat; push the body of the thru hull out while 'unscrewing' it, then get in a dingy and remove it; re-installl a new one, finish up inside the boat; and GRADUALLY release the halyard. You will get some funny looks, but it gets the job done.
I've replaced an 1 1/4" thru hull by heeling the boat in the slip until thre thru hull was above the water. Take a halyard down to the deck and clip the sheav of a snap shackle over the halyard; attach a 15'-20' dock line to the snatch block with the other end fastened to the base of the mast. Now fasten the halyard to a piling in an adjacent slip abeam the mast and crank in the halyard on a winch. this bridle effect with a snatch block prevents having a lot of lateral load on the mast head sheav but will easily heel the boat over. Now you can remove the hose, seacock and retaining nut on the thru hull from inside the boat; push the body of the thru hull out while 'unscrewing' it, then get in a dingy and remove it; re-installl a new one, finish up inside the boat; and GRADUALLY release the halyard. You will get some funny looks, but it gets the job done.
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Dale I
Sticky paper Band-aid?
I'm not sure what the product is that is intended for temporary fixes of hull-holes...but it seems that you could dive it once with this stuff in hand and possibly make it the two months 'til haul... Its adhesion may depend on what type of bottom paint you have.
I'm not sure what the product is that is intended for temporary fixes of hull-holes...but it seems that you could dive it once with this stuff in hand and possibly make it the two months 'til haul... Its adhesion may depend on what type of bottom paint you have.
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Tim Donley
Simple solution
Go to West Marine and get Epoxy Stick SKU # 3761483. If the thru hull is sound (hard to know) this will give you the rest of the season.I had a leaking thru hull (new installation)shortly after launch. Short of hauling out and resealing joint to ball valve I used this expoxy stick with success (10 months). It works under water as the water promotes the cure. Clean the area well of loose scale ,etc. clean with acetone (flammable) and put the putty on, it will work resonably well. Best Regards,Tim
Go to West Marine and get Epoxy Stick SKU # 3761483. If the thru hull is sound (hard to know) this will give you the rest of the season.I had a leaking thru hull (new installation)shortly after launch. Short of hauling out and resealing joint to ball valve I used this expoxy stick with success (10 months). It works under water as the water promotes the cure. Clean the area well of loose scale ,etc. clean with acetone (flammable) and put the putty on, it will work resonably well. Best Regards,Tim
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Ed Ryan
What about careening?
I'm not familiar with your area, and how much (if any) the tides are, but one thing to consider might be careening (and make the repair/replacement without the long trip). If you go to the Sailnet site and to the articles, do a search on "careening" and you'll find at least one article that explains some of the things to keep in mind. I've not done it myself, but a good friend has careened his boat to replace a thru hull, as well as to clean the bottom. He found a place that was minimum depth for his boat at high tide, and then was able to stand in the water and work after the tide went out and the boat leaned over. Just a thought to consider to be able to make a permanent repair sooner rather than later.
I'm not familiar with your area, and how much (if any) the tides are, but one thing to consider might be careening (and make the repair/replacement without the long trip). If you go to the Sailnet site and to the articles, do a search on "careening" and you'll find at least one article that explains some of the things to keep in mind. I've not done it myself, but a good friend has careened his boat to replace a thru hull, as well as to clean the bottom. He found a place that was minimum depth for his boat at high tide, and then was able to stand in the water and work after the tide went out and the boat leaned over. Just a thought to consider to be able to make a permanent repair sooner rather than later.
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Bill
Bit the bullet
Last year I had a problem with my head thru-hull. I had the yard do a short hall, just up on the straps, they threw it in and droped her back. 275 for the hall, 80 for the parts and installation. s/v Lady Di New London
Last year I had a problem with my head thru-hull. I had the yard do a short hall, just up on the straps, they threw it in and droped her back. 275 for the hall, 80 for the parts and installation. s/v Lady Di New London
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