I want to add cleats about 4 or 5 feet aft of the side stay u-bolts to use for spring lines. I found a couple of neat 5" Chrome pop up cleats thanks to an earlier post on this site. They should fit perfectly into the rub rail formed by the hull/deck joint. Question being is there any metal band encased in the fiberglass that, if cut, could damage the integrity of the rail? Is 4' from the stay u-bolts far enough away? Installation will require a couple of 3/4" holes for the cleat to retract into and a couple of 3/16" holes to fasten.
Mid ship cleat
- Thread starter Dick1505
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Spring lines...
... are a good idea but why add more stuff to your boat? The chainplates are more than strong enough to handle any dock line and there is nothing to add, they are already there. I've been using my chainplates with spring lines for years and they work just fine.
... are a good idea but why add more stuff to your boat? The chainplates are more than strong enough to handle any dock line and there is nothing to add, they are already there. I've been using my chainplates with spring lines for years and they work just fine.
Thanks for picture
The placement of the permanent dock cleats make it difficult to keep the bow out of the dock in my slip as you pointed out. My thought with the retractable cleat that I had found is that there is less chance of Spinacre sheets getting tangled as they will do at the most unappropriate times.
The placement of the permanent dock cleats make it difficult to keep the bow out of the dock in my slip as you pointed out. My thought with the retractable cleat that I had found is that there is less chance of Spinacre sheets getting tangled as they will do at the most unappropriate times.
There's a rule for it...
..."if a line can snag, it will" The less junk you have there for it to happen the better. Spinnaker sheets in particular would most certainly get caught on this setup. As for keeping your bow off the dock slip, mounting a cleat close to the location of your stern cleat will allow you to control how far in the bow will be allowed to come.
..."if a line can snag, it will" The less junk you have there for it to happen the better. Spinnaker sheets in particular would most certainly get caught on this setup. As for keeping your bow off the dock slip, mounting a cleat close to the location of your stern cleat will allow you to control how far in the bow will be allowed to come.
I use the stanchion base
as a breast cleat on my H26. They seem to be bolted pretty well. I thread the line under the metal rod bracket at the base. It's up a little high, but it works. It's a little awkward to adjust at the boat end, but not too bad. Has anyone had trouble with their stanchion bases? The H26 attachment seems better than most
as a breast cleat on my H26. They seem to be bolted pretty well. I thread the line under the metal rod bracket at the base. It's up a little high, but it works. It's a little awkward to adjust at the boat end, but not too bad. Has anyone had trouble with their stanchion bases? The H26 attachment seems better than most
Stanchion
I think you can get away with using the stanchion as a midship cleat at the dock but I use a spring line as a stopping line. Not sure I'd want to rely on the stanchion to stop a 6000 lb boat. This technique works very well as long as you don't miss the dock cleat - then it's REVERSE big time.
I think you can get away with using the stanchion as a midship cleat at the dock but I use a spring line as a stopping line. Not sure I'd want to rely on the stanchion to stop a 6000 lb boat. This technique works very well as long as you don't miss the dock cleat - then it's REVERSE big time.
Chainplates
I threaded a short piece of 1/2 dockline through the two chainplate U-bolts, kept in place with a stopper knot at each end. This forms about a 6 inch loop between the two U-bolts. My spring lines each make two wraps around this loop. I thought I'd have to replace it due to chaffe, but it's lasted 5 seasons (4 months around here) and still looks fine. Rick
I threaded a short piece of 1/2 dockline through the two chainplate U-bolts, kept in place with a stopper knot at each end. This forms about a 6 inch loop between the two U-bolts. My spring lines each make two wraps around this loop. I thought I'd have to replace it due to chaffe, but it's lasted 5 seasons (4 months around here) and still looks fine. Rick
Pop-up cleats are no bargain
You get what you pay for. The pop-up cleats require a large cut-out in the deck AND a drain tube that leads somewhere you don't mind having sea water go. Also they are poorly-designed as just cleats. Look at two nice Sea Dog 316-stainless open-base cleats. They accommodate hooks, loops in your line and hitch knots, and look good. They are strong and inexpensive. Best of all they won't cease working as cleats when you need them to be there. JC 2
You get what you pay for. The pop-up cleats require a large cut-out in the deck AND a drain tube that leads somewhere you don't mind having sea water go. Also they are poorly-designed as just cleats. Look at two nice Sea Dog 316-stainless open-base cleats. They accommodate hooks, loops in your line and hitch knots, and look good. They are strong and inexpensive. Best of all they won't cease working as cleats when you need them to be there. JC 2
Blue Line
Michael: Regarding the blue line. There are times when sailing downwind that I'm concerned about an inadvertent jibe. Since the H260 boom won't go out all the way to 90 degrees like some boats, I get nervous when sailing off the wind in lumpy seas so I rigged up a boom preventer on each side. I used to run a line from the bow back to the cockpit as a preventer but this works much better. When I go from one downwind tack to the other I just unclip and reclip as the boom passes over. This project is hidden in the depths of my website - Go to this link and click on the preventer picture: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/upgrades1.html
Michael: Regarding the blue line. There are times when sailing downwind that I'm concerned about an inadvertent jibe. Since the H260 boom won't go out all the way to 90 degrees like some boats, I get nervous when sailing off the wind in lumpy seas so I rigged up a boom preventer on each side. I used to run a line from the bow back to the cockpit as a preventer but this works much better. When I go from one downwind tack to the other I just unclip and reclip as the boom passes over. This project is hidden in the depths of my website - Go to this link and click on the preventer picture: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/upgrades1.html
I knew there was something I hadn't done
Thanks for the reminder. A preventer is something I hadn't remembered to rig. As you can relate our B&R rigs are a little easy to accidently jibe on a downwind run. Thanks for posting your experience in rigging it so well. Michael
Thanks for the reminder. A preventer is something I hadn't remembered to rig. As you can relate our B&R rigs are a little easy to accidently jibe on a downwind run. Thanks for posting your experience in rigging it so well. Michael
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