About to re-coat the pedestal, but I can't get the wheel off (1983 h27)! What's the trick? I've removed the outer decorative bolt, but the wheel only slides a 1/2 inch or so. Also, anyone know where to get a wheel brake for 1983 Merrimen? Thanks! Kevin in VT
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wheel puller?
Kevin: You may be dealing with a rust buildup. I would suggest a wheel puller. These units have a center bolt and arms that go over the hub. You just tighten the center bolt and it should pull it off the spline. There should be a key way with a steel key. This is probably very rusted. You can also try spraying it with a lot of WD40 and trying to remove the wheel before using the puller.
Kevin: You may be dealing with a rust buildup. I would suggest a wheel puller. These units have a center bolt and arms that go over the hub. You just tighten the center bolt and it should pull it off the spline. There should be a key way with a steel key. This is probably very rusted. You can also try spraying it with a lot of WD40 and trying to remove the wheel before using the puller.
go to the store section of this site
Go to the store section of this site for a wheelbrake. Good luck as I could not get the frozen screws out of the second ring section of mine. Good luck
Go to the store section of this site for a wheelbrake. Good luck as I could not get the frozen screws out of the second ring section of mine. Good luck
Key Way with a steel key ??
Thanks Steve, I'm not finding any rust. Everything under the large "cap" bolt is very clean. The wheel moves freely and loosely about 1/2" off the spindal, where it feels like it hits something designed to impede further progress. Any more information on this "key way with a steel key? I'm wondering if there is something else I need to remove. There is a notch on the inside of the wheel where it slides over the steering spindal. Does this have anything to do with the process? Is there a site that shows a scematic of the assembly of Merrimen pedistals? Does anyone think contacting Hunter will help? As always, thanks for any info. you can provide! Thanks Ian for pointing me to the store for a wheel lock! Kevin in VT
Thanks Steve, I'm not finding any rust. Everything under the large "cap" bolt is very clean. The wheel moves freely and loosely about 1/2" off the spindal, where it feels like it hits something designed to impede further progress. Any more information on this "key way with a steel key? I'm wondering if there is something else I need to remove. There is a notch on the inside of the wheel where it slides over the steering spindal. Does this have anything to do with the process? Is there a site that shows a scematic of the assembly of Merrimen pedistals? Does anyone think contacting Hunter will help? As always, thanks for any info. you can provide! Thanks Ian for pointing me to the store for a wheel lock! Kevin in VT
A 'WAY " is ....
an area that supports a load or part. In this case it supports a "key" which is in this case a piece of 1/4" bar stock made of bronze. Mine was tight much like yours but there was little corrosion to speak of. I had a cheap gear puller in the arsenal from some project or another which I used to pull the wheel. I did have to use a hose clamp to hold the arms in place on the wheel's hub. Only moderate force was needed. To reassemble I figure just a wee bit of filing to dress the key enough to get a firm hand press fit. Don't go too far because you could end up with the wheel loose on the shaft, which clamping down tighter on the end nut won't help.
an area that supports a load or part. In this case it supports a "key" which is in this case a piece of 1/4" bar stock made of bronze. Mine was tight much like yours but there was little corrosion to speak of. I had a cheap gear puller in the arsenal from some project or another which I used to pull the wheel. I did have to use a hose clamp to hold the arms in place on the wheel's hub. Only moderate force was needed. To reassemble I figure just a wee bit of filing to dress the key enough to get a firm hand press fit. Don't go too far because you could end up with the wheel loose on the shaft, which clamping down tighter on the end nut won't help.
I got the key!
After some serious analysis I was able to get a visual of how the notch in the spindal tied into the notch on the wheel, via the "key". Since I could pull the wheel about 1/4" up, I simply put a block under the wheel (at the center), and then stuck a narrow rod down the slot and tapped on the top of the key, pushing it down until it bottomed out in its groove. Then, raised the wheel again which now was moving 1/2". So, I then propped the wheel (at the center) again with a bigger block, and again tapped down on the "key" until it bottomed out. I got 3/4", then did this again and got a full inch, and so on until the wheel was free. Assembly should be a matter of carefully and evenly tapping the wheel back onto the spindal and key. Thanks for the info. Sam. That was "key". And yes, John, if it wouldn't be too much trouble please fax me the diagram. That would be valuable to me. 802-847-6214 Attention: Kevin Thanks much! Kevin in VT
After some serious analysis I was able to get a visual of how the notch in the spindal tied into the notch on the wheel, via the "key". Since I could pull the wheel about 1/4" up, I simply put a block under the wheel (at the center), and then stuck a narrow rod down the slot and tapped on the top of the key, pushing it down until it bottomed out in its groove. Then, raised the wheel again which now was moving 1/2". So, I then propped the wheel (at the center) again with a bigger block, and again tapped down on the "key" until it bottomed out. I got 3/4", then did this again and got a full inch, and so on until the wheel was free. Assembly should be a matter of carefully and evenly tapping the wheel back onto the spindal and key. Thanks for the info. Sam. That was "key". And yes, John, if it wouldn't be too much trouble please fax me the diagram. That would be valuable to me. 802-847-6214 Attention: Kevin Thanks much! Kevin in VT
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