My mega 30 that I got free is coming along. sanded it back to gel coat (the various colours of it), fixed up some fiberglass and now it's got some primer on it! Hopefully tommorow the topcoat can go on and my nerves hold enough to get a nice coat.
Mega 30 restoration
- Thread starter Ethanhopps
- Start date
Well today went awful. sanded the primer with 320, tacked it down and mixed my interlux brightside flag blue with 216 thinner, just enough to spray, about %15 and I should've used Pepto-Bismol instead cus it has the runs.
Kinda disappointed with this paint and I know that will instantly bring on criticism towards me cus it's never the product... but I really tried with it. I'm not a pro but I'm also not a noob with painting and I have a proper devilbiss gun. The paint said Do Not put on a mist or tack coat, so following orders I put on the lightest wet coat I could, you could still see the primer. It sprays nice but after a minute it was headed for the floor. I tried less and more thinner, doing a mist coat like it opted against and still had the worst runs I've ever had. The paint is light enough you can see the primer easily!
This paint is probably geared towards brushing or rolling but they give you detailed spray instructions and applicable thinners. I also fail to see how you could get it to stay put with a roller where you're putting it on thicker. Suggestions welcome and suggestions for a different product, I think I should've used a 2k polyurethane in hindsight but the brightside really bragged itself up, I guess that's $300 down the bilge
Kinda disappointed with this paint and I know that will instantly bring on criticism towards me cus it's never the product... but I really tried with it. I'm not a pro but I'm also not a noob with painting and I have a proper devilbiss gun. The paint said Do Not put on a mist or tack coat, so following orders I put on the lightest wet coat I could, you could still see the primer. It sprays nice but after a minute it was headed for the floor. I tried less and more thinner, doing a mist coat like it opted against and still had the worst runs I've ever had. The paint is light enough you can see the primer easily!
This paint is probably geared towards brushing or rolling but they give you detailed spray instructions and applicable thinners. I also fail to see how you could get it to stay put with a roller where you're putting it on thicker. Suggestions welcome and suggestions for a different product, I think I should've used a 2k polyurethane in hindsight but the brightside really bragged itself up, I guess that's $300 down the bilge
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Hi Ethan, a few things things come to mind...a little too much reducer, the paint gun spray ajustments incorrect (not enough cfm pressure from your air source, and/or the spray nozzle not producing a fine enough spray), boat surface too cool (not matching ambient temperature for long enough period of time)
I sprayed the Jet Black paint on my hull with Interlux Perfection (2 part paint) and a high quality spray gun...although different paints, the above factors basically still play the same role.
All of my interior and topsides were applied with the Roll and Tip method using Perfection as well.
I have used Interlux Brightsides many times on prepped gelcoat and Fiberglas boat surfaces, always with the Roll and Tip method with very good results.
This is a photo taken this past September of my Cabin Cruiser that I Rolled and Tipped 6 years ago with Brightsides Arctic White...the water Reflection on the hull tells the story...
It's certainly not a fail...let it cure, lightly sand with 320, tack cloth it, or lightly wipe down with methyl hydrate or you 1 part reducer...use unthinned Brightsides with a high quality 3-4" foam roller, and just as important a high quality 3-4" fine haired tipping brush.
I sprayed the Jet Black paint on my hull with Interlux Perfection (2 part paint) and a high quality spray gun...although different paints, the above factors basically still play the same role.
All of my interior and topsides were applied with the Roll and Tip method using Perfection as well.
I have used Interlux Brightsides many times on prepped gelcoat and Fiberglas boat surfaces, always with the Roll and Tip method with very good results.
This is a photo taken this past September of my Cabin Cruiser that I Rolled and Tipped 6 years ago with Brightsides Arctic White...the water Reflection on the hull tells the story...
It's certainly not a fail...let it cure, lightly sand with 320, tack cloth it, or lightly wipe down with methyl hydrate or you 1 part reducer...use unthinned Brightsides with a high quality 3-4" foam roller, and just as important a high quality 3-4" fine haired tipping brush.
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yeah I think that's exactly what I'm going to do, just sand it and roll it. I'm spraying with a conventional spray gun, 1.4 tip, 30psi at the inlet. I've sprayed similar thickness automotive 2 parts and 1 part with reducer with the same settings and no issues so this must just be a different beast. the section in the picture is with nearly no reducer, maybe %3-5. Beyond me. I'm doing the deck and interior same as you with a brush so hopefully they work out a bit better.
That is the primer I used I think, mine is just called interprotect 2000e, for the deck and interior I'm just using prekote.
That is the primer I used I think, mine is just called interprotect 2000e, for the deck and interior I'm just using prekote.
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For what it's worth, any and all of the spraying I've done over the years, both automotive and marine, I've never sprayed with less then a consistent 80 psi at the nozzle...and have never had the issue you are having.
80psi !!!!???? wow I've never even heard of that, must be an interesting gun you have, any of mine won't spray over about 55
Many different types of paint sprayers out there and no one has mentioned type so pressure may be irrelevant. 80 psi in an HVLP or LVLP maybe not. Basic gravity feed maybe. Let's get the facts on type before we start throwing ideas out. Looking at the pictures I would be "guessing here since I really don't know" would be temperature of product vs surface. Just guessing.
I did say conventional which ever since hvlp came out people have forgotten the meaning of, basically the same but smaller air holes on the cap so a slightly higher Pressure at a little less cfm but not noticeably different in operation.
That's better... Got a 2 part polyurethane that I've sprayed before and it went down beautifully, I'll post a pic outside once we have a sunny day. The paint I got is a similar colour but has a metallic fleck in it which is something I've rarely seen on sailboats so it should pop, I'm excited.