MD6A

May 9, 2011
1,000
Jack,
I'm getting ready to replace my MD6A.
I had the Head serviced, and in the process of putting it all back together, the heat exchanger/exhaust manifold became a crumbling ball of rust.
The replacement cost of the heat exchanger on lead me to give up on the refit of this engine.
I'll be getting rid of the combi propellor and stainless steel exhaust system also.
I'm in the process of removing the engine now.
Also all the accessories to this engine are available also.
-Pete Carrico
Annapolis MD
 
Sep 2, 2001
9
Hello Jack,
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you, but I was in
Florida for 3 weeks, and the work piled up at home.
That didn't give me any time to work on getting my
Vega sorted out.
I suppose that you have sought alternatives by now for
your Vega engine.
-Pete

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Sports - Coverage of the 2002 Olympic Games
 
Feb 19, 2004
2
For those of you who still have this motor, what kind of luck have
you had. Recently purchased #2693 and am trying to get the motor
going. Am very tempted to just forget it and repower. If I am able to
get my engine running w minimal financial outlay, is this a
dependable set up or will more problems appear w time. I realize that
the engine is close to 30 yrs old but how long could it run?
Any suggestions?
 
Oct 31, 2019
53
Hi Scott,

Some owners have repowered with Betas, others with Yanmars. I had an MD6B in my Vega (2947) when I bought her in '97. I thought about rebuilding it, but then decided it wasn't worth the trouble and repowered with a Yanmar 2GM20 (18hp). I like having the added power, but it's a tight fit, although it weighs a hundred or so pounds less. I hear the Betas are nice, too.

In any case, hang around the email list. I'm sure you'll get a bunch more responses on this issue that will be helpful.

Cheers,
Steve DeMont
"Erendira"
Vega 2947
Seattle, WA

Scott encampment22003@... wrote:
For those of you who still have this motor, what kind of luck have
you had. Recently purchased #2693 and am trying to get the motor
going. Am very tempted to just forget it and repower. If I am able to
get my engine running w minimal financial outlay, is this a
dependable set up or will more problems appear w time. I realize that
the engine is close to 30 yrs old but how long could it run?
Any suggestions?
 
Nov 8, 2001
1,818
Hi Scott

I am biased but best bet is to change to the Beta ste-up we do. Now have nearly one hundred Vegas with the Beta installed and everyone loves them. Overhauling the Volvo will cost a fortune for parts and will still be a thirty year old engine at the end of the refurbishment. Still have salt-water cooling instead of freshwater cooling (indirect) with the Beta. I am sure any Vega owner that has teh Beta fitted will re-inforce my advice.

Kind Regards

Steve Birch Vega "Southern Comfort" V1703.
 
May 1, 2007
127
Dear Vega Friends,

My old Vega , sail number 1682 still has the old MD6a diesel.

Of course I had to pay a lot of many for maintenance. The engine works
fine all those years, but the dynano will give up and of course filters
have to be replaced yearly. Batteries donot last more than a few years.
Its now winter in Holland and I have conserved the engine.

I hope to start her in a months time.

Its a sail boat and the engine gives enough power to get in and out the
moorings.

Happy sailing,

Henk Jansen
 
Oct 30, 2019
106
Scott,
I have the MD6b in Overture. Which is the same as the "a" but with a
separate alternator. It has its quirks, but is enough to get out to
the bay. I think the question is time and effort against money. I
have spent a lot of time rewiring, cleaning of injectors and fuel
components. As a result my engine is very easy to start and provides
enough power if needed in a pinch. If you are willing to work on the
engine yourself and its problems are not too great it should be much
cheaper than repowering. I would also consider what kind of sailing
your going to do and where (will you need to depend on the engine a
lot). Good luck!

PaulM
V2926
 

bv0820

.
Jun 24, 2003
66
Scott, Paul is right on target. There are two major
areas to check..compression and timing gears. If the
timing gears have teeth missing the whole set can be
replaced for about $500-600..I have done it..new
injectors..and run like a champ. It is a very simple
engine and Volvo made a great one..

Bob Vogel
Laughing Gull #1877
 
Nov 20, 2003
22
Recent purchase of Vega 1472. In Lake Michigan for the last 20 yrs
(+/-). Am putting her in the Atlantic for 3 weeks then back into
fresh water. Using zinks on the prop shaft and the water intake. Any
comments? This engine has seen age but exquisit care. Am a little
worried about subjecting her to salt after so much age. Welcome your
input. Rex
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Rex;

looks like you have a fixed pitch prop (because you can't
put a zink on the operation sleeve).
My Vega was also in Lake Michigan- now in Florida. I have,
besides the zink on the shaft, a large zink on the keel and
never had any problems. Just NEVER use a car-battery
charger- these a the curse for killing a boat!

Wilhelm, V-257
 
Oct 31, 2019
24
Why is that? If the boat's system ground is not to "earth", just to the neg
post on the battery. What is happing with the car charger that is different
from a marine charger?
All the best;
Robert Gainer
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
I put the large zinc that the VAGB sells that fits on the end of the variable pitch propeller boss. Boat was in the water for about 6 months until I had it hauled recently to overhaul the combi. The zinc is very eroded and crumbly. I wonder why it's being destroyed so fast?

Chris
V2933 Renee
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Chris;

about your zink- check around, somebody in your marina is
using a car battery charger (or maybe you did!). That will
do it!
There are a few battery chargers marked "Marine Chargers",
but they are NOT! Check it: if any AC comes out, through it
away- that's cheaper than the damage they do on your boat!

Wilhelm, V-257
 
Feb 6, 2011
253
I have a guest charger installed on the boat.

As far as I know, this should be a good one. I only had the charger hooked up, maybe three times (days), over the past 6 months. It must be one of my neighbors.

What about galvanic action? The boat yard bottom painted the prop, prop boss, and shaft. Do you think the copper in the paint in contact with the prob boss metal is doing bad things? Do you all paint your props? or not?

Chris
V2933 Renee
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hi Chris;

you can check this guest charger easily with a tester (from
radio shack .. ). If it shows any AC, you got a problem.
I installed two switches for my two batteries, one for the
+ side and the other for the - side. That way I'm sure my
batteries are isolated when I go home! (only the bilge pump
is connected all the time, but on a separate circuit).

Wilhelm, V-257
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
another thing: when I see one of my neighbors uses an
electrical connection, I ask him/her what kind of charger
they are using. Many sailers have no idea what damage they
can do with a car charger. It's better to get your neighbor
a little angry than to have your rudder fall off one of
these days!

Wilhelm, V-257
 
Apr 22, 2008
47
Albin Vega 27 San Francisco
Greetings:

Symptoms
1. Difficulty in starting
2. White smoke on start up, long idle warm up time during which the
engine does not respond to throttle changes.
3. Runs quite well once it gets past the unresponsive idle; makes
hull speed
4. Significant black sooty exhaust; so much so that the cockpit
drains are stained black with the backwash
5. Entering port returns to the unresponsive idle mode while
drifting uncontollably toward the stern of your neighbor's boat.

Factors:
1. Fuel lines good
2. Filters clean, fine filter brand new
3. Fuel clean with regular doses of appropriate treatment.Any diagnoses or suggestions?Thanks for the help.

Victor
 
Oct 31, 2019
40
Hi Victor
I'm leaning towards air in fuel, take the return line from where it leaves the engine and heads back to the tank, place it in a glass or jar and start the engine and let it fill keeping the line down in the diesel, I bet you get bubbles. When the injector pump "pushes" it immediately makes the injector squirt. Diesel wont compress so the timing between the pump and injector is instant, if there's the tiniest bit of air or foam in the line the "push" or "shock" gets delayed, like a caterpillar and the squirt is late in the cycle. Incomplete combustion and black smoke (white on a cold engine)

When my Vega is low on fuel, in chop and gets a bit of air you describe my engine's behavior perfectly. SInce the 6A's pump is very simple and seldom can get out of adjustment there's only 2 ways to get black smoke.

1: Worn injectors (this slowly creeps up on you)
2: Late pump timing (or foam in lines)

Either way foam can create the symptoms you describe but late timing wont make her unresponsive, foam will. The pump uses internal pressure to regulate it's functions and with air in the pump it can't function other than shoving whatever it can towards the injectors.

Hope this helps

Claude
 
Oct 31, 2019
562
Hello Victor;

one of the major problems is water intrusion through the
exhaust system. The symptoms you write about (first white
smoke, then black smoke) tell me your valves are no longer
seated and may be corroded. The problem is aggravated by
prolonged starting, when the engine does not fire, but the
water pump will push cooling water into the exhaust hose,
but since the engine doesn't fire, the water is not
expelled and rises in the hose to a point where it could
enter the engine.
Take off the hose at the mixing elbow and see if it feels
wet (stick your finger into the lower (exhaust) part of the
elbow.) If it feels wet, have a mechanic (or you) check the
valves.

Good luck.... Wilhelm, V-257