MD6A heating up..

roy

.
Feb 1, 2009
186
2 270 soldiers point
I noticed on Sunday that my engine was getting hot.
Someone mentioned that I could remove the little plugs on the block and probably remove/drain out a bunch of rust particles and stuff.

How many of these plugs are on the MD6A?
Where are they on the block?
What tool do you use to get them out?

Thanks,
roy_______________________________________________
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Oct 19, 2019
921
Albin Vega 27 Limerick
My experience was (on Steve Birch's advice) to remove and clean out the
exhaust manifold on port upper side of engine. (Got mechanic to do it as
was even less competent then - but it is definitly a DIY job.)

It was full of bits of old impeller and badly sooted up.

This made a dramatic difference and engine has run cool ever since.

You'll prob need to replace the gasket - it was I think about 40 euro -
available from any Volvo Penta dealer...

John
John A. Kinsella Ph: +353-61-202148 (Direct)
+353-61-333644 x 2148 (Switch)
Mathematics Dept. e-mail: John.Kinsella@...
University of Limerick FAX: +353-61-334927
IRELAND Web: John Kinsella's Website
 
Dec 13, 2006
227
Hey there,

After doing some more work to my engine (1973 Volvo-Penta, MD6A), I discovered that I cannot get the top of my lift pump off. The bolt comes right out, but the lid or cover of the pump has corroded and rusted itself to the body of the pump, so I can no longer access the diaphragm or screen inside which I suspect is a bit clogged.

I am not sure if there should have been a rubber gasket there in place to avoid such a catastrophe, but in any event, she appears to be very stuck.

the lip of the cover (where it meets the body of the pump) is very thin and delicate, so rapping on it didn't seem like such a good idea. Any suggestions on how to loosen and remove this ritical piece?

Many Thanks!
Chris
 
May 30, 2006
1,075
It should come off.
The top is like a cymbal and fits into the bottom part. So the seam you want to go after is along the top and not on the side of the pump. Mine was painted and I couldn't see the seam.

Maybe get something like vise grips to hold the bottom part from torquing, and put something in the hole where the screw was and pry. This after working on the seam a bit.

Roy
 
May 30, 2006
1,075
Mine seemed really stuck, but in the end, it wasn't really.

Don't stick anything too far into that screw hole, as you really don't want to puncture the screen filter in there.

roy
 
Dec 13, 2006
227
Hi Roy!

I tried a screwdriver in the hole, but started to bend the top down and I was afraid that I would ruin the seal if that little hole became distorted. I tried a small ball peen hammer...nothing!

On another note Roy...did you post a while back that you had a spare electrical panel that you were selling, or am I thinking of someone else?

Chris

groundhog groundhog1rb@... wrote:

Mine seemed really stuck, but in the end, it wasn't really.

Don't stick anything too far into that screw hole, as you really don't want to puncture the screen filter in there.

roy
 
May 30, 2006
1,075
Chris,
I am redoing my panel. I have redone the wooden face at the top of the stairs. I did it in sapele veneer on 1/4 inch plywood. Then I have two rows of rocker switches and fuse holders and nametags.

I have a bunch of switches left over and you can have them if you make me an offer quickly. I can send you pictures if you are interested.

Roy
 
Dec 13, 2006
227
I would love to see pictures of what you have done.

Now in doing that, will you no longer be able to control the running lights, etc...from the cockpit?

Chris

groundhog groundhog1rb@... wrote:
Chris,
I am redoing my panel. I have redone the wooden face at the top of the stairs. I did it in sapele veneer on 1/4 inch plywood. Then I have two rows of rocker switches and fuse holders and nametags.

I have a bunch of switches left over and you can have them if you make me an offer quickly. I can send you pictures if you are interested.

Roy