I have it all set up to travel to see the prospect boat i want to buy. A 1985 O'Day 25 CB. i plan on cruising the loop and the Gulf of Mexico. I was wondering if any of you could/would give me some pointers on specifec things i need to check and what should I be on the look out for that may be indicators of problems or future problem areas. thanks jmc
I'm not overly familiar with the specific boat you are looking at, you may wish to ask questions/read posts in the section of this forum on the O'day's. I don't know if there's an owners group, you could look for one or someone here may know of one.
I'm attaching a check list that Pam Wall sent me when I was planning to go look at my current boat. Not everything on this list may apply to you, but it's a good framework:
Down Below:
Carla's List for Purchasing a Used Boat www.pamwall.com
Look at windlass locker to inspect chain for rust and condition below deck of windlass,
Inspect head stay chain plate and if there is an inner forestay make sure there is a chain plate attached to the hull
Look at all thru hulls, ask where is head intake and output, sink intake and output and check all thru hulls and hose clamps
Check chain plates for rust etc. look at fastenings
Inspect the bottom of the mast and electrical wiring that comes out of it at the bottom also check where the mast goes through the deck to make sure it is waterproofed
Look at wiring panel, behind if you can, and see how it looks
Check all bilge pumps and make sure they work, bilge high water alarm?
Under galley sink check the thru hull fittings and all hose clamps
Check out water pressure system and hot water that hot water works and look at hot water heater and hoses to the engine
Look in the bilge look for standing water and oil and dirt and loose hardware
Inspect engine, and generator, fuel filter, see if it has a vacuum gauge on the fuel filter, see how easy/difficult to change oil, get engine hours from meter, check all hoses and hose clamps, white fuzz around hose clamps means salt water leaking, general condition (oil leaks, rust, engine beds, where to check engine oil and transmission,)
Check where prop shaft goes thru the hull for leakage, cutlass bearing and stuffing box
Check the steering system, look for rust etc.
Electronics and do they work all wiring looks good
Galley, solenoid for propane stove
Under floorboards, tanks, wiring, bilge pumps, traces of water or oil, general condition, water tanks and fuel tanks their condition
Check the batteries, for age, for tie down, wiring
Galley, check refrig and freezer, temp gauges, thermostat,
Lee cloths, hatches, toilets no squirting water from pumps
Check sinks and thru hulls and foot pumps and electric water pressure pumps, and hot water spigot
Is there a water maker? what kind, does it work???
Check the overhead liner, condition,
ON DECK
Check roller furling genoa, check condition of the sunbrella cover and stitching and check the roller furling system, the drum, make sure there is a double Jaw toggle in the turnbuckle at the bottom of the head stay, link plates would be good too. This should also be done for inner forestay and staysail only thing this does not need is the link plates.
Windlass condition and chain and lead to anchors, foot switches up and down, what kind of anchors, anchor snubber (35 feet of half inch three strand nylon and use a rolling hitch on the chain.)
Running back stays for the staysail, track, car, condition (can replace wire and tackles with T-900 line)
Liferaft, and placement thinking about where tender can be lashed on deck, check for in certification
Downwind Pole, stowed on mast up on track is best. Check for fore and after guys, outboard end topping lift, etc. See my article on Downwind Poles on
www.pamwall.com
Condition of lexan and metal on hatches or cracks in plastic hatches and port holes, or what they are made of and manufacturer
Condition of mast, chalky, corrosion bubbles, and peeling, check fasteners which are stainless steel on aluminum and replace and use Tef-Gel with new ss fasteners
Mast steps, do not use rivets, only machine screws with Tef-Gel
Check all leads to cockpit, for being fair, no chafe and fair lead around or thru them to cockpit, check all rope clutches in cockpit to make sure they work. Check all running rigging for condition, if faded or chafed, or very stiff, it will have to be replaced
Check all wire terminals for rust or cracking, check wire for rust and barber poling, and check turnbuckles and cotter pins in turnbuckles, and chain plates on deck, if there are covers on the turnbuckles and shrouds check for corrosion. Any rust is a sign of trouble.
Check the spreaders and make sure they are not droopy, in other words they should have a slight upward positioning on upper shroud.
Check running lights for working and corrosion
Check lifelines, wire terminals and condition of the wire and gates and stantions where fastened to the deck (if there is rust there is a problem)
Check steering pedestal, compass, outside instrumentation, hatch boards, MOB equipment, Outboard bracket and hoist, steering wheel and lock, winches condition (rust and turn them) Lewmar the top cap is probably deteriorating, grey instead of black, see if self tailing or open, auto pilot working, controls in cockpit, Ram Mic, engine controls work, manual bilge pump and handle, cockpit table, boarding ladder on the stern or lifeline gate, condition of the deck and cockpit sole, depth sounder easy to read, bimini top and dodger,
Look at the water line for cleanliness no grass or barnacles
If you want the boat, get a really good surveyor, and a rigging surveyor to go up the mast and check all standing rigging.
dj
