Maximum motor size for Mac 26S
- Thread starter Tom Fawbush
- Start date
I have an old 4 stroke 9.9 Yamaha, and I usually don't run it past half speed. Anything after that is just burning more gas with no increase beyond hull speed. I am thinking of downsizing. Maybe one of the Tohatsu's with the high output alternator. The Yamaha 4 stroke fills the motor well and will not steer more than a small amount before hitting the side walls, so I have to use rudder even under power.
Second what Mike said. I have the Yamaha 9.9 with the high thrust prop. Half throttle gets me 4.5 knots. The biggest complaint I have with the full motor well is that I can't turn the engine much. This really limits slow speed maneuvering ability while in reverse.
Likewise see no need to go above 10 HP. Mine came the the 4 blade high thrust prop and kept it for a spare and went to a high thrust 3 blade and have never really lacked for thrust. It is the highest thrust 3 blade available for the Tohatsu.
When I put the 9.8 Tohatsu in the S's well the same thing. Marginal ability to turn the outboard as shown above.
We bought an extra-long shaft outboard for two reasons. One being that after building the mount shown above the outboard is the same depth in the water as a long shaft model but ....
.... the controls are now higher and closer to the operator. Also the mount moves the outboard aft enough that it will now turn and ...
... with the connector on between the tiller and the outboard's tiller/handle it is real maneuverable.
The mount comes off in a few minutes and there were a couple times on the Bahama trip that I wished I would of pulled it off and had the outboard in the well and lower in the water as the prop came out of the water with the right wave conditions.
More on the mount here ...
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-25.html
... and tiller connector here....
http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/macgregor2/outside-29.html
Sumner
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1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas
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That motor well on the 26 Classics is one of the things I really about it. but you have to go out of your way to get the rotation. I have the Xtra long shaft and raised the outboard by 2.5 inches and back by 2 inches (so the prop is still 2.5 inches lower than the stock long shaft) and this has really worked wonderfully for many years now. Allows full rotation, prop never comes out of the water. A link http://analogengineering.com/sail/mac/outboard.html
My .02 is that being able to rotate the outboard is a big benefit when you are trying to make tight corners like getting into a slip when its windy. You can use technique to get around rotating the outboard.. but it sure is easier if you can, way more control. When motoring , I sit all the way back on the cockpit seat on the side of the motor well and find I dont need any mechanical linkage to both run the tiller and rotate the outboard. I just flip the outboard throttle lever up.. no problem to run both outboard and tiller including throttle control. Im 5 ft 10 inch so this either gets easier or more difficult depending on your height. Its no problem at all at my height. Its also usually just the very last few turns getting into or out of a slip that you need to rotate the outboard. The rest of time motoring, just use the tiller as once you have any speed at all, the rudder is all that is needed.
I agree with everyone that you just never need any more than 10 hp, if you are more of the sailing type, 6 hp would be fine. I wonder what problem the OP is trying to solve going larger than 10 hp?
My .02 is that being able to rotate the outboard is a big benefit when you are trying to make tight corners like getting into a slip when its windy. You can use technique to get around rotating the outboard.. but it sure is easier if you can, way more control. When motoring , I sit all the way back on the cockpit seat on the side of the motor well and find I dont need any mechanical linkage to both run the tiller and rotate the outboard. I just flip the outboard throttle lever up.. no problem to run both outboard and tiller including throttle control. Im 5 ft 10 inch so this either gets easier or more difficult depending on your height. Its no problem at all at my height. Its also usually just the very last few turns getting into or out of a slip that you need to rotate the outboard. The rest of time motoring, just use the tiller as once you have any speed at all, the rudder is all that is needed.
I agree with everyone that you just never need any more than 10 hp, if you are more of the sailing type, 6 hp would be fine. I wonder what problem the OP is trying to solve going larger than 10 hp?
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I also have a 9.9 extra long shaft with electric start & high thrust lower unit. Rarely run full throttle. The high thrust is invaluable when docking in crosswind or when towing in a powerboat (priceless moment!). My slip is on a small lake and it's a bit shallow so I dock with rudder up and just steer with motor. I have it mounted on a Garelick retractable mount so I have good turning radius on motor and can lower the prop when I do a Great Lakes trip. I like the Mercury tiller with throttle and shift control together.
Almost an identical thread nearly 10 years ago. To answer the original question, the max recommended size is 10hp (9.9)
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10476
http://macgregorsailors.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10476
The 26S has a hull speed of about 6 knots, using a bigger motor will NOT exceed this speed appreciably (weight, resistance to thurst) It is a law of physics. But if you want more control and 6 knots in just about all conditions, there really is only one motor, a 9.9 Merc Bigfoot extra long shaft. Tohatsu is the same basic motor, but a motor with accessory things like power trim, electric start/6amp alternator or remote control usually you need to go Merc.
The longer shaft gives more power, not speed, and the bigfoot is geared again for power.
I have tried Honda, Yamaha and another whose brand I can' remember because it was so bad, it didn't last twice.
I sail in the North Atlantic, and need a very reliable, strong motor. I got caught once where we had to stand in the cockpit to avoid going underwater every 7th or so wave. The Merc went under, then up and popped out of the water and down again - three hours, never quit.
I will and have bet my life on a Merc 9.9 Bigfoot
Update added: I also added a Garrick mount, almost all 9.9 motors are limited if just mounted on the transom.
The longer shaft gives more power, not speed, and the bigfoot is geared again for power.
I have tried Honda, Yamaha and another whose brand I can' remember because it was so bad, it didn't last twice.
I sail in the North Atlantic, and need a very reliable, strong motor. I got caught once where we had to stand in the cockpit to avoid going underwater every 7th or so wave. The Merc went under, then up and popped out of the water and down again - three hours, never quit.
I will and have bet my life on a Merc 9.9 Bigfoot
Update added: I also added a Garrick mount, almost all 9.9 motors are limited if just mounted on the transom.
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I have a 9.9 Johnson Sailmaster 2 stroke long shaft. No trim but electric start and charges the battery. Sea prop. That motor has never given up. I wouldn't sail with anything less. I also sail in the North Atlantic and have had to deal with that wave action. Usually for hours. Actually just a few weeks ago in Buzzards Bay. e rode out a North Easterly blast for three hours from Cuttyhunk to Westport.. I motor sailed for insurance. Pushing a button to start the motor in 5 foot seas was nice. Although the button cap came off while starting and sunk to the bottom in the wave motion. I'm glad that I'm not the only one where even with a long shaft the motor would go under then pop out and then have the prop come out. It is unsettling. At times I wish I had a snorkel! The long shaft keeps the prop in the water. I installed a Garlick mount this year and am extremely happy with being able to pull the motor up with one hand. No real need for power trim although it would be nice.