Mast Wiring/Mast Light/Coax

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Everlong 25

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Sep 3, 2007
70
2 25 Narragansett Bay RI
Okay, I h have a question I hope someone can help with. I have been working on updating the wiring and plumbing on my 1975 25. Everything is going great except for my last project....the mast.

I would like to run new coax and mast light wire before splashing the boat. I had replaced my mast step a couple of years ago and can get to the bottom of the mast. The top plate is held on by 3 rivets, which should not to be to big of a trick to pop off. That will leave one bolt that holds the mast sheave bar. My question is, does anyone know if the wire is tied or if there is any other reason why the wire would not be free to be pulled through?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...I only want to do this once and do it right!;)

Thanks in advance.

Chuck
Everlong - O'day 25
Warren RI
 
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Carver13014

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Mar 30, 2006
44
- - Apponaug, RI
Hi Chuck,

My mast head is only held on with the one cross bolt. The wire should not be tied to anything and should just run free through the mast. On my 25, the wires exit out the side of the mast a couple inches above the base. I had run new coax myself this year and used the masthead light wires to fish through a length of twine and then run all the wires back down the mast. Worked fine.

Good luck,

greg
Carver - O'day 25
Apponaug, RI
 
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Everlong 25

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Sep 3, 2007
70
2 25 Narragansett Bay RI
Re: Mast Wiring

Greg,

Sounds about right, mine exits at a few inches from the bottom also. I popped the top mast cap off and I'm at the point of taking the cross-bar out when I figured I would pose the question to the group.

Thanks for the advice. Maybe I'll take some pictures to post to the user index.



Carver said:
Hi Chuck,

My mast head is only held on with the one cross bolt. The wire should not be tied to anything and should just run free through the mast. On my 25, the wires exit out the side of the mast a couple inches above the base. I had run new coax myself this year and used the masthead light wires to fish through a length of twine and then run all the wires back down the mast. Worked fine.

Good luck,

greg
Carver - O'day 25
Apponaug, RI
Click to expand
 
Joe11688

Joe11688

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Jan 24, 2005
4,881
Oday 222 Dighton, Ma.
Everlong 25 said:
Okay, I h have a question I hope someone can help with. I have been working on updating the wiring and plumbing on my 1975 25. Everything is going great except for my last project....the mast.

I would like to run new coax and mast light wire before splashing the boat. I had replaced my mast step a couple of years ago and can get to the bottom of the mast. The top plate is held on by 3 rivets, which should not to be to big of a trick to pop off. That will leave one bolt that holds the mast sheave bar. My question is, does anyone know if the wire is tied or if there is any other reason why the wire would not be free to be pulled through?

Any help would be greatly appreciated...I only want to do this once and do it right!;)

Thanks in advance.

Chuck
Everlong - O'day 25
Warren RI
Click to expand
Chuck,
I had to rework the wiring on my internal halyard Z-Spar Mast. The mast head was held in place by two bent bolts that entered each side of the mast and protruded through the top which was held on by nuts. The duplex wire was held in place inside of the mast near the top of the mast by a small metal strap which was riveted in place parallel with the mast. The coax was zip tied to the duplex. Both wires exited through a hole with a plastic bushing in it, near the bottom of the mast. I removed my steaming light and the duplex that fed it. My anchor light duplex feed wire appeared to be in good condition so I didn't bother using zip ties. I just taped the coax to the duplex every couple of feet, and fed it back into the mast. I replaced my Jib Halyard sheave block with a better stainless steel sheave block that I bought off Rudy. Instead of riveting it on, I drilled the mast, tapped it for threads, and used small machine screws. I've used my Jib Halyard a couple of times to pull my mast up and it seems to be pretty strong. You could probably do the same thing with the mast head cap on your mast. I used Lock-Tite on the threads of the screws. If you have a stainless steel tabernacle like mine, it would be very advisable to insulate the stainless from the Aluminum with anything. I used epoxy resin on the inside of my mast. I let it set up and dry before I inserted the mast plug into the mast. Some guys use the plastic from milk jugs. The Stainless steel was corroding the Aluminum out on my mast. I needed to have a welder work on it a couple of months ago. Good luck with that.
Joe
 
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Everlong 25

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Sep 3, 2007
70
2 25 Narragansett Bay RI
Trinkka said:
Chuck,
I drilled the mast, tapped it for threads, and used small machine screws. I've used my Jib Halyard a couple of times to pull my mast up and it seems to be pretty strong. You could probably do the same thing with the mast head cap on your mast. I used Lock-Tite on the threads of the screws. If you have a stainless steel tabernacle like mine, it would be very advisable to insulate the stainless from the Aluminum with anything. I used epoxy resin on the inside of my mast. I let it set up and dry before I inserted the mast plug into the mast. Some guys use the plastic from milk jugs. The Stainless steel was corroding the Aluminum out on my mast. I needed to have a welder work on it a couple of months ago. Good luck with that.
Joe
Click to expand
Joe, Great advice. I used Loctite on the tabernacle when I reattached it and the screws can right out. The thought of using Resin-epoxy to coat it is a great idea and I have to fix the bottom of my dingy, so that will be a good time to do both.
 
Boat n Bus

Boat n Bus

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Sep 12, 2005
71
Oday 25 Escondido, CA
When I replaced the wiring in my mast, there was a wad of foam stuffed down to the spreaders from the masthead. It had a length of string tied to the sheave bolt so I pulled it out easily. I did not put it back it back in and that has haunted me to this day. The foam kept the wires from banging inside the mast! At anchor or even light air sailing it drives me nuts. Cheers, Gerard
 
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Everlong 25

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Sep 3, 2007
70
2 25 Narragansett Bay RI
RE: Mast Wiring with Pictures

Boat n Bus said:
The foam kept the wires from banging inside the mast! At anchor or even light air sailing it drives me nuts. Cheers, Gerard
Click to expand
Gerard,

Okay, your post haunted me! I pulled the mast step and the Mast head off the mast and of course, the mast is stuffed with foam. Thoughts of stuffing the wires in and capping them on ran through my mind, but I had one heck of a time getting the foam out. It seems they were caught by the lower and upper spreader bolts. I had to pulll the lower spreader bolt off (that was a chore, had to drill out the gromets and tap the holes for 12-24 screws. Went fairly well.)

I thought about the best way to approach the job, with your post echoing in my mind, and came up with a solution that included using 3 ties in a delta configuration as well as foam sections tapped in between. Mast isn't up yet, but a quick shake did not reveal any banging.

So basically, I put 3 ties in the delta fashion every 4 feet with a foam piece in between. (See attached pictures).

For those that want to attempt this, I have a bunch of pictures I"ll throw up someplace. Couple of things to remember, though:

1. If you take the mast head out and remove the pulleys (which I did to knock the rivets from the cover off and to tap for screws), be careful. The sheaves have a brass bushing.... I had to recut one,,not hard but being careful will avoid this step.

2. If you have to remove the stay holders, remember there are aluminum tubes acting as spacers. The previous owner filled this with 5200 or something and I had to cut it off with a dremel tool. Rudy at D&R cut me a couple of pieces. (Thanks, Rudy). (See first Picture).

3. I used 12-24 1/2" screws for the top plate and the stay holders. The aluminum is easy to tap, but don't rush it. Also, I followed Joe's advice and used some Locktite. See last Picture.

4. Finnaly, I went to Harbor Frieght, a national discount tool place, and picked up a 50 foot fish tape for $7.00. It might not hold up for tough electrical jobs, but for my purposes, it's been great.

Hope to splash this weekend... I pray for a "no-clang" mast!:naughty:
 

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