Mast thickness?

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Orbweaver

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Apr 3, 2020
191
Hunter 23.5 Frenchtown, MT
Hi all,
I want to attach a couple of pad-eyes to my mast. I'm trying to engineer a system to allow me to step the mast while on the trailer, and I need to support the mast during the raising process to prevent side-to-side movement until the shrouds can take the load. Essentially I'm making small shrouds that will be attached during the raising/lower process only. They need to be at a height that allows removal after the mast is up. My plan is to attach a couple of stainless pad-eyes at about 7' up, and I want to use blind rivets to do so. The problem is, I don't know the thickness of the mast extrusion. So, does anyone know how thick that aluminum is? This is on my H26.5.
Thanks
 
sail sfbay

sail sfbay

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Feb 21, 2013
4,638
Hunter 46 Point Richmond, CA
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O

Orbweaver

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Apr 3, 2020
191
Hunter 23.5 Frenchtown, MT
I have some documentation of the boom, but so far I have been unable to find anything regarding who made the mast. I have not been successful at locating any information on the mast itself. Maybe someone on here knows who likely supplied the mast back in '87 to Hunter?
 
O

Orbweaver

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Apr 3, 2020
191
Hunter 23.5 Frenchtown, MT
Ron20324 said:
Would a thru-bolt with an eye nut on each end work for you?
Click to expand
I don't think that would be the best solution. I have internal halyards and electrical lines. Maybe that wouldn't matter though? It would certainly be a strong solution.
 
Ron20324

Ron20324

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Jan 22, 2008
8,050
Beneteau 323 Annapolis MD
Orbweaver said:
I don't think that would be the best solution. I have internal halyards and electrical lines. Maybe that wouldn't matter though? It would certainly be a strong solution.
Click to expand
You could put a plastic or metal sleeve over any exposed threads inside the mast.
 
C

Crazy Dave Condon

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Jun 8, 2004
10,113
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Ron is correct about exposed threads inside the mast will cut lines and wires. Hunter avoided that by inserting a stainless steel tube inside the mast to run the bolt thru. Big washers were used on the outside and when bolting down not to press in the mast. Each side had a tang which to attach a wire to. What is critical is drilling the holes in the mast at the same distance.

Go to hunter small boat and ask for pictures of the struts attached to the mast
particularly at the top on a hunter 260. Also the distance from bottom of mast to top of bolt attached to strut.

Your boom follows the mast. It would be either Kenyon Isomat or Z Spar. Kenyon Isomat is gone but came back under a new name, Starcraft. Z Spar came back as U S Spars.

I designed the original mast raise system for the 23.5 as a Hunter dealer
 
O

Orbweaver

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Apr 3, 2020
191
Hunter 23.5 Frenchtown, MT
Update: I figured out that I could sort of fit my calipers in the hole where the shrouds are attached, and measured ~0.105" thickness. I also found out that wasps really enjoy the interstitial area inside the mast and had built quite a home for themselves. (insert angry face here).
Anyway, I got some pictures and sent them off to US Spars (the only one to get back with me so far), just hoping to positively identify the mast. There is a hinged base, and that is stamped 'Dwyer', but it looks to me like that was added at some point after the initial build.
Anyhoo, for attaching the baby stays it looks like I'll have to deal with two halyards and the wiring for the mast light which is inside a pool noodle looking foam cylinder. I also need to replace the mast light, since it's corroded and just in poor shape.
Click here for link to pics.
 
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