WHEN THE MAST IS UP AND TENSIONED,I CAN TWIST THE TABERNACLE AN EIGTH OF AN INCH OR SO WITH MY HAND.ITS NOT SLOPPY LOOSE,BUT NEITHER IS IT ROCK SOLID.IS THIS A CASE FOR A BED OF 3M 5200 OR SOMTHING SIMILAR?
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Ben Allen
Time For A Remount
Lloyd, 3M 5200 will be a good seleant to keep the water out, but you need to remount the tabernacle first. If you have movement, then the hold down bolts are loose and this means that you could be getting water into the deck core. Remove the tabernacle, drill the holes larger than necessary, fill with epoxy, and redrill the correct size hole. Get some SS bolts with backing washers and nylon lock nuts to go on the bottom. The job shouldn't take more than an afternoon or two. Good Luck. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Latte Dah" O 26
Lloyd, 3M 5200 will be a good seleant to keep the water out, but you need to remount the tabernacle first. If you have movement, then the hold down bolts are loose and this means that you could be getting water into the deck core. Remove the tabernacle, drill the holes larger than necessary, fill with epoxy, and redrill the correct size hole. Get some SS bolts with backing washers and nylon lock nuts to go on the bottom. The job shouldn't take more than an afternoon or two. Good Luck. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Latte Dah" O 26
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Pat Shanklin
Epoxy and Sealant
LLoyd, here are some ideas about your tabernacle repair... Fast curing epoxies are often brittle and will crack. Long curing epoxies are stronger and more flexable. A product that is slower curing and drillable is Polypoxy. Polypoxy is viscous but can be used to fill a hole, if it's not too cold. Use a stiff wire to poke in there to help it settle and release any bubbles. Be sure not to have any voids. Don't try this on a cold day. It works better on a warm day. On cool days I keep the tubes in my pocket to warm to body tempature. This makes it flow better. Give it at least 24 hours to cure. After removing the tabernacle and drilling out the holes, check for any moisture. Inspect the wood shavings after you drill. If the wood is damp, dry it out befor doing the repair. Polypoxy comes in two tubs 50/50, has a long shelf life and can be used under water and for many other repairs. It's good stuff to have on the boat ...About sealants and adhesives; Ben's fix is right on the money, however 5200 is a really tough adhesive and to be used with caution. 5200 is a polyurethane used to bond hull to deck joints. It can make separation of parts extremely difficult. I have seen it peel gellcoat and splinter wood. I think a better choice for sealing tabernacle would be a polysulfied caulk (Life-Caulk, Multi-Caulk or 3M 101). These products are easy to work with and clean up with soapy water and provide excelent moisture protection without any adhesion problems. It's my choice for all deck hardware. Ben, please excuse me for butting in about the 5200. Good Luck with the repair, it should be a breeze. LLoyd I am eager to hear more about your bulkhead ideas as well and will be following that thread as well. Pat Shanklin O'Day 22 "Puff" Charlotte, NC
LLoyd, here are some ideas about your tabernacle repair... Fast curing epoxies are often brittle and will crack. Long curing epoxies are stronger and more flexable. A product that is slower curing and drillable is Polypoxy. Polypoxy is viscous but can be used to fill a hole, if it's not too cold. Use a stiff wire to poke in there to help it settle and release any bubbles. Be sure not to have any voids. Don't try this on a cold day. It works better on a warm day. On cool days I keep the tubes in my pocket to warm to body tempature. This makes it flow better. Give it at least 24 hours to cure. After removing the tabernacle and drilling out the holes, check for any moisture. Inspect the wood shavings after you drill. If the wood is damp, dry it out befor doing the repair. Polypoxy comes in two tubs 50/50, has a long shelf life and can be used under water and for many other repairs. It's good stuff to have on the boat ...About sealants and adhesives; Ben's fix is right on the money, however 5200 is a really tough adhesive and to be used with caution. 5200 is a polyurethane used to bond hull to deck joints. It can make separation of parts extremely difficult. I have seen it peel gellcoat and splinter wood. I think a better choice for sealing tabernacle would be a polysulfied caulk (Life-Caulk, Multi-Caulk or 3M 101). These products are easy to work with and clean up with soapy water and provide excelent moisture protection without any adhesion problems. It's my choice for all deck hardware. Ben, please excuse me for butting in about the 5200. Good Luck with the repair, it should be a breeze. LLoyd I am eager to hear more about your bulkhead ideas as well and will be following that thread as well. Pat Shanklin O'Day 22 "Puff" Charlotte, NC
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Ben Allen
None Taken Pat
Good suggestion Pat, I have never tried that brand of epoxy, sounds like good stuff. You live is a really great city, I lived there for 9 years, moved away in 88'. Hooked poles for Duke Power, saw the sun rise many times from the top of a 55' pole on Independence Blvd. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Latte Dah" O 26
Good suggestion Pat, I have never tried that brand of epoxy, sounds like good stuff. You live is a really great city, I lived there for 9 years, moved away in 88'. Hooked poles for Duke Power, saw the sun rise many times from the top of a 55' pole on Independence Blvd. Ben Allen Montgomery, AL "Latte Dah" O 26
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Pat Shanklin
More Details
LLoyd, Please excuse my excruciating attention to detail but I looked on the Pettit (Pettitpaint.com) website and discovered that they make two types of Polypoxy. One is a clear glue but I am suggesting you try (Polypoxy Underwater Patching Compound) a grey, slow cure thixotropic epoxy Pettit 7050/7025. This stuff is a lot like JB Weld but not quite as thick. I would cover the area with wide masking tape befor drilling to catch any spilling then pull the tape after filling the hole. Sometimes a large craft syringe is helpful but don't forget to use a wire to push it down and release any bubbles. This stuff is a bit thick for filling small holes but does a really good job. Ben, sounds like you got a good view of Charlotte hanging off those towers. I think I saw you up there one day on my way to work at "Boats For Sail" on Independence Blvd. Were you sailing on Lake Norman back then? Any questions or comments: Pshanklin@aol.com Pat Shanklin O'Day 22 "Puff" Charlotte, NC
LLoyd, Please excuse my excruciating attention to detail but I looked on the Pettit (Pettitpaint.com) website and discovered that they make two types of Polypoxy. One is a clear glue but I am suggesting you try (Polypoxy Underwater Patching Compound) a grey, slow cure thixotropic epoxy Pettit 7050/7025. This stuff is a lot like JB Weld but not quite as thick. I would cover the area with wide masking tape befor drilling to catch any spilling then pull the tape after filling the hole. Sometimes a large craft syringe is helpful but don't forget to use a wire to push it down and release any bubbles. This stuff is a bit thick for filling small holes but does a really good job. Ben, sounds like you got a good view of Charlotte hanging off those towers. I think I saw you up there one day on my way to work at "Boats For Sail" on Independence Blvd. Were you sailing on Lake Norman back then? Any questions or comments: Pshanklin@aol.com Pat Shanklin O'Day 22 "Puff" Charlotte, NC
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