Mast Step

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Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
I'd like to pull my mast this winter and fix the moisture problem in the core underneath the step. My question is can fiberglass be used to replace the core in that section instead of the balsa or plywood underneath? Any suggestions or other viable materials? Thanks in advance.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Manny, my Islander has a deck stepped

mast. When I rebuilt her I removed the compression post and the 1/2 inch plywood under the mast step and laminated in from the underside alternate layers of chopped strand mat and 22 ounce woven roving until I had added about six layers of each about two feet square. Now the deck in the way of the mast is about 3/4 inches thick. Since the base that the column rested on was also deteriorated I replaced that with an block of locust bonded to the ballast in the keel and bridged that with black walnut where it would show above the cabin sole. Then I measured the span from base to cabin top cut the post a 1/4 inch too long and with the help of a small jack slid the compression column back into place.
 

Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Sounds similar to what I need to do

Ross, what you described is almost identical to what I was thinking of doing! I need to cut out about a two foot square section, and was thinking of alternating roving and mat. At least I now I feel like i'm probably on the right track. How much time do you think you spent on the work? Do you have a rough idea of what you spent on materials? Thanks again.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Manny, It has been about ten years but

I seem to recall that with grinding out surfaces to be covered, doing the measuring for the keel blocks and preparing them was a couple of days. Laminating the glass in the overhead only took about two days but could have been done in one. (tip: roll the glass onto a paper tube before you try to glue it in place). I weigh all of the resin and measure the catalist with a 10 cc hypodermic syringe and plan for a 30 minute gel time based on air temperature. Lay up one sheet of mat good and wet and one sheet of roving and then using an air roller work the entire surface until it is uniformly wet, then add another layer of mat and roving and roll. This is a good time to take a break and let the resin set. Too much at one time can over heat. when you come back if there are any strands sticking up they should be ground off or they just make lumps in the next layers. I use a narrow paint roller to apply resin overhead. Apply two more layers as before. If you weigh the glass and mix resin in about that same weight it will be close to the right ammount if you roll carefully. You could do it in one day. Protect your self, have plenty of ventilation with a fan. Acetone is the solvent of choice for polyester. As to cost we are talking about less than a gallon of resin @ $25 and a couple of yards of glass at 5-6 buck a yard. So probably a 50 dollar project plus thec cost of gloves, roller, moonsuits, acetone, paint rollers, etc etc etc.
 
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