The mast step on my O'Day 23 (1973 or 1974) is mounted on the cabin top. The area surrounding the step is depressed about 3/8" lower than the rest of the cabin top. The depression is noticeable in the cabin as a slight protrusion in the ceiling. The cabin top (I think) is made of balsa wood covered with fiberglass. The wood under mast is probably rotten as that seems to be source of rainwater getting inside. My neighbor suggested that putting an aluminum plate under the mast step to distribute the load and seal the area, would be easier than digging out the rot and filling it with epoxy and glass, and that it would do the same thing for me. Any opinions, or experience with a similar problem? thanks, Mel
Mast Step sunken into Cabin top
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bruce cornell
repair
the problem will continue to get worse, sealing with the plate will trap moisture in the core which will continue to rot and spread further. 'I' would recommend doing a proper repair job.
the problem will continue to get worse, sealing with the plate will trap moisture in the core which will continue to rot and spread further. 'I' would recommend doing a proper repair job.
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Dick Wheaton
leak around keal
1974 ODAY pop up 23 ft. pop up day sailor hasd leaking around keal box. Any Help?
1974 ODAY pop up 23 ft. pop up day sailor hasd leaking around keal box. Any Help?
T
TDC
repair
The different epoxy system co's have information on how to do this and other types of repairs. I've used West System and their advice and information was very helpful. (booklet- fiberglass boat repair & maintenance, #002-550)
The different epoxy system co's have information on how to do this and other types of repairs. I've used West System and their advice and information was very helpful. (booklet- fiberglass boat repair & maintenance, #002-550)
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Steve Braverman
Check out "Good Old Boat"
There is an article in this month's issue of "Good Old Boat" that deals with exactly your problem. I think it's even the same boat. The author fabricated a brace inside the cabin, it's very slick.
There is an article in this month's issue of "Good Old Boat" that deals with exactly your problem. I think it's even the same boat. The author fabricated a brace inside the cabin, it's very slick.
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bruce cornell
gravity
check around, others may recommend pealing the top rather than inside due to ease of material handling, venting epoxy fumes, etc. working overhead with wet glass is NO fun. 'I' would work from the outside, may leave a scar, but would be sure of a solid repair without bubbles.
check around, others may recommend pealing the top rather than inside due to ease of material handling, venting epoxy fumes, etc. working overhead with wet glass is NO fun. 'I' would work from the outside, may leave a scar, but would be sure of a solid repair without bubbles.
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bruce cornell
west system
go to westsystem.com for info/help. everything there can be used with the cheap stuff as well as west epoxy.
go to westsystem.com for info/help. everything there can be used with the cheap stuff as well as west epoxy.
Thank you for all good suggestions
Thank you, all. I knew I had to do something, but with your help & suggestions, I have more confidence that I will not "screw it up." West marine had a project posted on the repair of a deck which used balsa. The Baltec core at Defender industries looks like a good filler to use for filler, bonded with epoxy after the rot is cut out. That should also
Thank you, all. I knew I had to do something, but with your help & suggestions, I have more confidence that I will not "screw it up." West marine had a project posted on the repair of a deck which used balsa. The Baltec core at Defender industries looks like a good filler to use for filler, bonded with epoxy after the rot is cut out. That should also
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TT
Don't use balsa
Mel - There is considerable compressive load in this area. I suggest that you'd be better off to replace the rotted core with a piece of good quality plywood of appropriate thickness. After the ply is cut to shape, give it a couple of coats of unthickened epoxy to seal it, then set it in place with thickened epoxy, which will also re-bond the upper skin of the deck laminate back in place. Any gaps around the edges of the ply should also be filled with thickened epoxy. If the curvature of the cabin top makes it difficult to fit a single piece of ply ( I'm guessing the original balsa core will be close to 1/2" ) then use 2 layers of thinner ply, bonded with epoxy. If necessary,use small machine screws (e.g. # 8-32 ) with nuts & washers etc to clamp the whole thing together untill the epoxy cures, then remove the fasteners and fill the holes with more thickened epoxy. Once the repair is complete, cosmetic issues can be addressed with some gelcoat, using the same approach as for crack repair. If you're patient & careful, the repair should be invisible. Good luck with it. PS Put a release agent on the screws so they dont get bonded in with the epoxy.
Mel - There is considerable compressive load in this area. I suggest that you'd be better off to replace the rotted core with a piece of good quality plywood of appropriate thickness. After the ply is cut to shape, give it a couple of coats of unthickened epoxy to seal it, then set it in place with thickened epoxy, which will also re-bond the upper skin of the deck laminate back in place. Any gaps around the edges of the ply should also be filled with thickened epoxy. If the curvature of the cabin top makes it difficult to fit a single piece of ply ( I'm guessing the original balsa core will be close to 1/2" ) then use 2 layers of thinner ply, bonded with epoxy. If necessary,use small machine screws (e.g. # 8-32 ) with nuts & washers etc to clamp the whole thing together untill the epoxy cures, then remove the fasteners and fill the holes with more thickened epoxy. Once the repair is complete, cosmetic issues can be addressed with some gelcoat, using the same approach as for crack repair. If you're patient & careful, the repair should be invisible. Good luck with it. PS Put a release agent on the screws so they dont get bonded in with the epoxy.
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bruce cornell
plywood
do not use pressure treated plywood, fiberglass/epoxy does not like it and there may be problems with it not sticking together since PT is moist, you will be adding a liquid into the 'skin' to be sealed in...
do not use pressure treated plywood, fiberglass/epoxy does not like it and there may be problems with it not sticking together since PT is moist, you will be adding a liquid into the 'skin' to be sealed in...
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