Mast shroud and stay guide

[soling42]

A simple $2 fix to those who step their mast and worry about the mast shroud/stay "T" fittings not seating right. Disastrous dismastings can take place either when raising a mast at the ramp or under sail when twisted fittings eventually (and unannounced) finally fail.A very simple 1/2" grey pvc 2 hole pipe strap from HD, pop riveted around the shroud/stay head about 1-2" down from the socket will keep your fittings safely and perfectly aligned. Works like a charm, took 5min and $2.50 but will never fail. Squeeze the strap to close it slightly. I only used one alum rivet on my H260 side stays(set slightly back from center on my B&R rig). With the mast set rearward, one lower rivet easily supports the stay and allows you to pull the the strap open to remove the stay fitting if needed. The forestay got two rivets(a little closer to the socket) that could be simply drilled out if you really needed to remove the whole jib assembly. Using pvc straps and alum rivets will ease any dissimilar metal concerns too.Good luck. Michael

 

[Joe11688]

Gibb rubber T ball plugs

Years ago, when I trailered my O'Day 222 I had a problem with the shroud "T" fittings getting twisted in the mast backing plates. So I talked to a salesman at the Boston Boat show about this and he showed me a catalog with Gibb T Ball fittings and rubber stops which are inserted into the slot to hold the T fittings in place. I never knew that they had something like that until he showed me. So I asked him to send me some of these rubber plugs along with a tally of the cost, which he did. The ones that he sent me were a little long and I had to cut a little off them to get them to fit in the slots on my mast, but they worked out great and I'm still using them to this day. Every fall, I remove them when I remove my stays and spreaders for the winter lay up, and they're still in good condition. They are made by Gibb and they come in various sizes. Here's the link to the site.

 

[Joe11688]

T Ball stops

Michael, I don't do a lot of mast raising anymore since I started leaving my boat on a mooring at the club, but I will probably raise my mast on my boat while it's sitting on the trailer in my yard, just to make sure that everything is going to be OK before I bring the boat down to the club. Actually, my lower stays were always a problem, and even with the rubber stops the "T"s could get twisted, but now that I'm using a Gin Pole for raising/lowering my mast, along with bridles which are attached to my lower stays, I don't have this problem any longer. My lower stays have tension on them, even when the mast is lowered. The bridles keep my mast from going over sideways. I'm able to step my mast without the bridles as long as the wind is coming from directly behind the mast. With my double sheave boom vang and extra long line, I'm able to stop the mast at any position in the raising/lowering procedure via a cam cleat on the vang. I usually take my time and make sure that nothing gets twisted or kinked. The zip ties are a great idea. Hey! Whatever works! Right?Joe

 

[Joe11688]

Rubber plug reply

Those are the same ones that I've been using Jerry.

 

[Joe11688]

That's true

Jerry,The Gibb plugs will keep the T fitting from popping out of the plates, but if for some reason the T fitting isn't seated where it should be, it can get twisted. I always keep a watchful eye on them when I raise my mast. Before I ever heard about these plugs years ago, I tried squirting a little silicon caulking in the plate slot above the T fittings to see if that would work. I never did. I'd be willing to bet that a manufacturer could come up with a springy metal clip that would even work better than the Gibb plugs. It probably wouldn't be worth their while to market them though.Joe

 

[George]

Great Minds Think Alike

Here's a similar approach: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/headstay/headstay.htmlMichael: What is that wire coming out of the hole?

 

[soling42]

Tag line

GeorgeI thought you'd catch that. The wire in the socket for the T fitting is a tag line for a spreader light wire. Yet another project nearly done.Saw your eye clamps for tie wraps on the shrouds but was looking for a way to end that extra step. These pvc straps do just that.Thanks, Michael

 

[Ray]

A trick to stop bending turnbuckles raising the mast.

On my H26 I bent a turnbuckle raising the mast when it fell down and was bent when the mast raised and snapped it up. I hook bungie cords to the turnbuckle and up to the handrail on the boat top. This holds it up without fail and saves $30 a pop.Ray

 

[Joe11688]

That's a sure cure, Ray

I've been doing that very same thing to my back stay, because I have a turnbuckle and a Johnson Handy-Lock on this stay, and it can get twisted and bent real easy if I'm not careful when raising my mast. I always arrange my side stays so that they go up without twisting, and I haven't really had a problem with them. I did bend one of my "T" bolts at my chain plate, years ago though. I recently replace it.

 

[George]

T-Ball Problem

Here's a postscript on this issue: I contacted US Spars and Dwyer Mast asking their view on this problem. US Spars' view is that the T-ball is quick and easy to remove for trailerable boats but does have it’s drawbacks when used with a furler -- When the hardware was selected for the H26/260 series it was not anticipated that a lot of these masts were going to have furlers on them. A Tang system that slots in the mast with a toggle eye on the forestay would also work. US Spars also offers what they call call a combi box on the Z -230 mast which incorporates a sheave box and a toggle combination. The draw back to these systems is that you have a clevis & cotter pin that you could drop and lose. Also, a toggle arrangement also can get twisted and misaligned and bent. US Spars' view is the key to not having problems is to keep the forestay tight and in line as the mast goes up (duh!). The Dwyer contact said that for the mast of the size we are talking about they prefer a T-ball or a hound setup. I've seen the hound used in ice boats and that also may be an option. I guess the bottom line is when rigging the boat is to double check the stays, both at the T-ball and the turnbuckle. This is easy to forget. Once properly rigged and tuned, the T-ball setup is strong and reliable. Like a lot of things in life, forwarned is forarmed - that's the strength of this forum -- and Phil and gang have done us a great service. More about this at this link:

 

[NautiDuck]

Question

I like these ideas. We have had problems with the lower shrouds on our C250 getting loused up at the Tball. With the solution of using those ratcheting plastic wire ties - are you saying that they will break on their own when the mast goes up and puts tension on the stays? Would Velcro work? Also, great tip using the foam to hold the turnbuckles up!

 

[soling42]

Tie wraps will pop off just fine

RandyFind the right size between too weak and overkill and they'll hold your shrouds just fine until the spreading shrouds pop them off. I used 4 smallish ones around the whole mast(pic above) but George modified the idea by adding a small ss eye on the mast to hold one tie right where it was needed(for each shroud). The weak link in either idea is remembering to do the tie wraps every single time. It'll only take one forgetful hurried moment and the old danger arises.Sooooo...I merely took Georges idea one step further and simply put a single pvc strap right around the shrouds(very top pic) just down from the T....it was an inexcusably simple 5min project and the end of the issue forever.Velcro could work but I usually loose the tie wraps in transition so velcro may add$$ up unless you remember to find it every time. Happy tweaking. Michael