Just pulled the Mast, First time it's been off the boat from what I see. The rig had a fixed wire boom stay - no topping lift. However, there is an additional sheave with the main halyard. Also an additional sheave is adjacent to the jib/geneoa sheave. The exit points at the base of the mast only allow two halyards to exit. So there are four sheaves at the top of mast with a two sheave exit. Any thoughts on this configuration ?
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Mast changed?
As far as I know at the time your boat was built Hunter was using Kenyon Spars for masts. My 84 H34 was set-up like you describe: Masthead had 2 sheaves front and 2 sheaves back. allowing for a spare halyard for jib and main. But the mast itself did have 2 sheaves on each side at the bottom. how long have you had the boat? Looks like someone might have replaced the spar itself, using the same masthead and not bothering to re-install the second set of sheaves since they were not used. A good rigger could fix that for you if you need the extra halyards. Good Luck
As far as I know at the time your boat was built Hunter was using Kenyon Spars for masts. My 84 H34 was set-up like you describe: Masthead had 2 sheaves front and 2 sheaves back. allowing for a spare halyard for jib and main. But the mast itself did have 2 sheaves on each side at the bottom. how long have you had the boat? Looks like someone might have replaced the spar itself, using the same masthead and not bothering to re-install the second set of sheaves since they were not used. A good rigger could fix that for you if you need the extra halyards. Good Luck
running rigging H36
My 79 H33 also has the 4 sheaves at top of mast and did have the fixed wire topping lift. When refitting the mast I replaced the wire with a rope topping lift exiting the second exit point on the starboard (main halyard) side of the mast, adding flexibility to the topping lift and reducing the chance of chafe of the wire against the mainsail. The port side of the mast has one exit point for the foresail halyard, leaving any use of the other sheave (spinnaker or second foresail) necessarily rigged with an external line.
My 79 H33 also has the 4 sheaves at top of mast and did have the fixed wire topping lift. When refitting the mast I replaced the wire with a rope topping lift exiting the second exit point on the starboard (main halyard) side of the mast, adding flexibility to the topping lift and reducing the chance of chafe of the wire against the mainsail. The port side of the mast has one exit point for the foresail halyard, leaving any use of the other sheave (spinnaker or second foresail) necessarily rigged with an external line.
Same as H37C.
I installed four new halyards on those sheaves. I use the forward ones for jib and gennaker. I use the aft ones for mainsail and as an adjustable topping lift. The adjustable topping lift doubles as a spare halyard for the main should I lose one. This required installing new halyard exits and fishing out the new halyards. This was not too difficult with the mast on the ground. The exit plates are available from Rig-Rite(Related Link). I also added two large cleats while I was about it, the black marelon type.
I installed four new halyards on those sheaves. I use the forward ones for jib and gennaker. I use the aft ones for mainsail and as an adjustable topping lift. The adjustable topping lift doubles as a spare halyard for the main should I lose one. This required installing new halyard exits and fishing out the new halyards. This was not too difficult with the mast on the ground. The exit plates are available from Rig-Rite(Related Link). I also added two large cleats while I was about it, the black marelon type.
4 sheaves
at masthead and 4 at base on our 82 H36. I use the forward 2 for genoa and genaker, one aft for the main halyard, second aft is unused. We have a fixed wire topping lift. As I recall, the base of the mast sits on a support (tabernacle?), which is cast aluminum containing the four sheaves, two on port side, two on stbd. When I installed the genaker halyard, mast was in place. At the masthead, I fed the line over the upper forward sheave. The end of the line was attached to a series of lead weights on a length of fishing line to help gravity pull the line to the base. I also attached a small steel bolt to the end of the fishing line. At the mast base, we pulled out the shaft on which the two port side sheaves ride, allowing my mate (with small hands) to reach up into the mast with a stick magnet. The bolt and magnet hooked up and the line was pulled out the base of the mast. Seems odd that your H36 would have 4 sheaves at masthead but only two sheaves at bottom. Good luck. Mike s/v Charisma
at masthead and 4 at base on our 82 H36. I use the forward 2 for genoa and genaker, one aft for the main halyard, second aft is unused. We have a fixed wire topping lift. As I recall, the base of the mast sits on a support (tabernacle?), which is cast aluminum containing the four sheaves, two on port side, two on stbd. When I installed the genaker halyard, mast was in place. At the masthead, I fed the line over the upper forward sheave. The end of the line was attached to a series of lead weights on a length of fishing line to help gravity pull the line to the base. I also attached a small steel bolt to the end of the fishing line. At the mast base, we pulled out the shaft on which the two port side sheaves ride, allowing my mate (with small hands) to reach up into the mast with a stick magnet. The bolt and magnet hooked up and the line was pulled out the base of the mast. Seems odd that your H36 would have 4 sheaves at masthead but only two sheaves at bottom. Good luck. Mike s/v Charisma
you can add exits with the mast in
If you're not adverse to drilling into your mast, you might as well put in two more exits yourself. My setup is basically like Ed's. I re-rigged all of my halyards one day a couple months ago, and I did it at the dock. Once you've got the holes drilled, it's not that big of a deal to put the halyards in, and the best method I came up with is to tie the end of your halyard to a bolt that is as big as will fit easily through the out-hole. I would use fishing line--and sew it through the rope if you can. Give yourself a few inches of just fishing line between the bolt and the halyard. That extra few inches lets you grab the bolt with a hanger, or your finger, without having to pull the halyard out at the same time--it ends up being to bulky for the hole, trying to grab the line and the bolt if they're just taped together.
If you're not adverse to drilling into your mast, you might as well put in two more exits yourself. My setup is basically like Ed's. I re-rigged all of my halyards one day a couple months ago, and I did it at the dock. Once you've got the holes drilled, it's not that big of a deal to put the halyards in, and the best method I came up with is to tie the end of your halyard to a bolt that is as big as will fit easily through the out-hole. I would use fishing line--and sew it through the rope if you can. Give yourself a few inches of just fishing line between the bolt and the halyard. That extra few inches lets you grab the bolt with a hanger, or your finger, without having to pull the halyard out at the same time--it ends up being to bulky for the hole, trying to grab the line and the bolt if they're just taped together.
Mast step photo
Nov 03, I had the yard take my 36 '81' mast off to replace wiring after lightning strike. While off, I had the mast painted. Here is a photo of the mast step. Note the two sheaves on each side with the divider plate. I will post a few more replies to give you additional photos. The halyard drops down into a square hole spearated by a piece of round stocs tunning for and aft. I've also got a pic of the disassembled sheeves. Is this at all similar to your setup?
Nov 03, I had the yard take my 36 '81' mast off to replace wiring after lightning strike. While off, I had the mast painted. Here is a photo of the mast step. Note the two sheaves on each side with the divider plate. I will post a few more replies to give you additional photos. The halyard drops down into a square hole spearated by a piece of round stocs tunning for and aft. I've also got a pic of the disassembled sheeves. Is this at all similar to your setup?
mast base
In this photo the port sheave assembly is being removed to gain acccess to the electrical connections. Joe, I'd like to hear if your step is different. Does this help?
In this photo the port sheave assembly is being removed to gain acccess to the electrical connections. Joe, I'd like to hear if your step is different. Does this help?
mast sheave resolved
First of all, thank you all for the response, Jim, I could not access the picture's but will try again. My solution was this,per Josh's suggestion I am cutting in two halyard exits, one set @ 7'6 above deck and one at 8'6" above deck, port & starboard. I will cleat the lines lower. New sheaves are being installed(pricey from rig rite) but the only source I've found for Kenyon Spar Parts.My old sheaves were very worn and the bushings were wobbley in the holes.I have refinished the spars with Intertahne and they look great ! New wiring will be done in a few days and then I hope I get another 25 years out of these spars. I found a split ion my gooseneck connection on my boom section and had a local shop weld the crack so that is back in business. It's amazing how every details must be looked at in these older boats but the sailing is well worth the effort. One more thing, my electrical access is first thru the base and then runs up a channel behind the mast track. Kenyon mast model # 5280 Thanks Again,anybody have a questions just reply.
First of all, thank you all for the response, Jim, I could not access the picture's but will try again. My solution was this,per Josh's suggestion I am cutting in two halyard exits, one set @ 7'6 above deck and one at 8'6" above deck, port & starboard. I will cleat the lines lower. New sheaves are being installed(pricey from rig rite) but the only source I've found for Kenyon Spar Parts.My old sheaves were very worn and the bushings were wobbley in the holes.I have refinished the spars with Intertahne and they look great ! New wiring will be done in a few days and then I hope I get another 25 years out of these spars. I found a split ion my gooseneck connection on my boom section and had a local shop weld the crack so that is back in business. It's amazing how every details must be looked at in these older boats but the sailing is well worth the effort. One more thing, my electrical access is first thru the base and then runs up a channel behind the mast track. Kenyon mast model # 5280 Thanks Again,anybody have a questions just reply.
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