I am hauling my boat this summer and will be removing the mast. The mast was already stepped when the boat was purchased two years ago so I don’t have experience with removing the mast. There is a crane available to help with lifting but I’m not sure what the easiest way is. These are the questions I have: - I have read the mast tuning procedure that Hunter published but I have not seen any instructions on mast stepping or removal. Is there a Hunter publication for removing the mast? - Some people have recommended attaching the crane hook to a halyard and lifting this way. Is this really the best way to lift a 400 plus pounds mast? - I don’t know what the wiring will look like at the base of the mast. Hopefully it will include connectors but if not I may need to cut wires. Does anyone want to guess how the wiring was done? - After the mast is lifted the foil and forestay will lay against and the mast. The plan is to lash the foil and forestay to the mast for shipping. Has anyone shipped a mast this way or does the foil need to be removed? Thanks in advance for your advice. Tom
Mast removal
- Thread starter Tom23488
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Some Thoughts
I have a Hunter 33 (1979). Pulled the mast, motored 400 miles with it on deck, stripped it, painted it, and just this week end, put it back up and tuned it. Most all of this was done following the advice in the archives. Where I couldn't find info, I added it to the archives based on my experience. So first thought is check the archives. A great resource. When I had my mast removed, the guys used a big fork lift. On a H-33 the mast is deck stepped. A strap is wrapped around the mast under the spreaders, you losen the turnbuckles and pop the pins. A messenger line at the base of the mast helps to control it. I would not use the halyard. A 2" nylon tow rope would work well ($6 @ Walmart). When I put the mast up this weekend, I had a guy operate a crane (with a strap) and lift it into position. I used all new rigging so it took a bit longer to get it up and set (1 1/2 hours, lots of adjusting) but it is not that hard. I used a Loos gauge to tune it and all is well. I decided to cut the wires in my mast off at the base because I planned to replace them. If you are going to keep them, have the mast lifted about 12" off the deck and look for connectors. They are simple push together connectors. You may have to reach up inside and pull excess wire down to find them. In the photo archives, there is a good article that shows how to install a wiring box at the base of the mast so you don't need to worry with reconnecting wires when re-installing the mast. It's a good idea. For rig tuning instructions, I used Knotheads, a contributer on this site. You can also check out Brian Toss (briantoss.com?). And there is a B&R rig tuning article on this site. All are helpful. For shipping, I would separate the foil from the mast. They can go together but you need to wrap each so they don't get beat up. If you want more info, just send me an email. mrb2222@yahoo.com
I have a Hunter 33 (1979). Pulled the mast, motored 400 miles with it on deck, stripped it, painted it, and just this week end, put it back up and tuned it. Most all of this was done following the advice in the archives. Where I couldn't find info, I added it to the archives based on my experience. So first thought is check the archives. A great resource. When I had my mast removed, the guys used a big fork lift. On a H-33 the mast is deck stepped. A strap is wrapped around the mast under the spreaders, you losen the turnbuckles and pop the pins. A messenger line at the base of the mast helps to control it. I would not use the halyard. A 2" nylon tow rope would work well ($6 @ Walmart). When I put the mast up this weekend, I had a guy operate a crane (with a strap) and lift it into position. I used all new rigging so it took a bit longer to get it up and set (1 1/2 hours, lots of adjusting) but it is not that hard. I used a Loos gauge to tune it and all is well. I decided to cut the wires in my mast off at the base because I planned to replace them. If you are going to keep them, have the mast lifted about 12" off the deck and look for connectors. They are simple push together connectors. You may have to reach up inside and pull excess wire down to find them. In the photo archives, there is a good article that shows how to install a wiring box at the base of the mast so you don't need to worry with reconnecting wires when re-installing the mast. It's a good idea. For rig tuning instructions, I used Knotheads, a contributer on this site. You can also check out Brian Toss (briantoss.com?). And there is a B&R rig tuning article on this site. All are helpful. For shipping, I would separate the foil from the mast. They can go together but you need to wrap each so they don't get beat up. If you want more info, just send me an email. mrb2222@yahoo.com
Stepping the mast on H34
I have stepped and unstepped the mast on my H34 a couple of time now- here is what I learned: Have enough help available- some one competent to operate the crane and 3 others is a good start. The balance point for the mast ( you dont want to hook up too low and have a top heavy lift) is about at the steaming light. I loop the line around the mast just above so the stretch dosent take the light off. You will need to send someone up in the bosuns chair or lift some one up withthe crane to place the line. Tie it off securely at the base of the mast. Use a heavy line- better safe than sorry. At the base you should find at least a screw coupling for the antenna cable and a plug to plug connection for the electrical. There might not be much play in it so lift about 4" and have some one take a look. If there is enough slack to set the bottom of the mast back down on a piece of wood on the deck beside the mast base while the cable are being disconnected do that. If not position a piece of wood between the bottom of the mast and the mast base so if something slips or drops the person disconnecting dosent loose a hand. This is dangerous stuff be very careful. When you are hooked up and have just enough tension to tighten the line, loosen your shrouds ( you can pre loosen a bit if you want to speed things up while at the crane) and the back stay. This should allow you to pop the pin on the forstay/furler. I position the crane at the front of the mast so releasing the forstay allows the mast to tilt backwards and the shroud and backstay can be taken off as soon as the mast is held up by the crane. My mast was shipped from Chicago to Toronto with the furler on the mast. It was well tied up and wrapped and padded with pieces of carpet in the critical spots. It arrived fine. Your transport company if they are in the business of shipping boats ( that is if you are using a commercial company) should know what is best. Good luck- plan well and take it slowly. It turned out to be easier than I thought. Let the crane do the work.
I have stepped and unstepped the mast on my H34 a couple of time now- here is what I learned: Have enough help available- some one competent to operate the crane and 3 others is a good start. The balance point for the mast ( you dont want to hook up too low and have a top heavy lift) is about at the steaming light. I loop the line around the mast just above so the stretch dosent take the light off. You will need to send someone up in the bosuns chair or lift some one up withthe crane to place the line. Tie it off securely at the base of the mast. Use a heavy line- better safe than sorry. At the base you should find at least a screw coupling for the antenna cable and a plug to plug connection for the electrical. There might not be much play in it so lift about 4" and have some one take a look. If there is enough slack to set the bottom of the mast back down on a piece of wood on the deck beside the mast base while the cable are being disconnected do that. If not position a piece of wood between the bottom of the mast and the mast base so if something slips or drops the person disconnecting dosent loose a hand. This is dangerous stuff be very careful. When you are hooked up and have just enough tension to tighten the line, loosen your shrouds ( you can pre loosen a bit if you want to speed things up while at the crane) and the back stay. This should allow you to pop the pin on the forstay/furler. I position the crane at the front of the mast so releasing the forstay allows the mast to tilt backwards and the shroud and backstay can be taken off as soon as the mast is held up by the crane. My mast was shipped from Chicago to Toronto with the furler on the mast. It was well tied up and wrapped and padded with pieces of carpet in the critical spots. It arrived fine. Your transport company if they are in the business of shipping boats ( that is if you are using a commercial company) should know what is best. Good luck- plan well and take it slowly. It turned out to be easier than I thought. Let the crane do the work.
The Hunter craftsmen installed a 4 pin plug and a coax connector under the mast. These are a common source of mast light problems due to corrosion. Leaving the foil with the mast is OK but I'd wrap some padding between the two for the ride. Now there are two more IMPORTANT things. Be sure to chalk around the wiring tube before the mast is reinstalled. It would be VERY WISE to check your compression post while the rig is off if it is the original spruce/pine lumber covered with teak, If you need to update the wiring move the connectors inside the cabin.
I take mine off every year
We store boats without masts in Canada. The other guys are right for procedure etc. We use an aluminum ladder, set on deck behind the mast and leaning on the bottom spreaders. It allows to climb ( someones hold the ladder, you hold on the shrouds) and you place the heavy line abone the bottom spreaders and on the crane hook. The crane the sling to the upper spreader. This way it won't be top heavy. While the mast is moving to the dock, watch the foil to avoid kinks. Shipping is no problem. The forestay is longer than the mast and the furler is heavy. shove a piece of wood (2X3) up the mast and ties the furler to it. Voila.
We store boats without masts in Canada. The other guys are right for procedure etc. We use an aluminum ladder, set on deck behind the mast and leaning on the bottom spreaders. It allows to climb ( someones hold the ladder, you hold on the shrouds) and you place the heavy line abone the bottom spreaders and on the crane hook. The crane the sling to the upper spreader. This way it won't be top heavy. While the mast is moving to the dock, watch the foil to avoid kinks. Shipping is no problem. The forestay is longer than the mast and the furler is heavy. shove a piece of wood (2X3) up the mast and ties the furler to it. Voila.
cost?
Al right everybody. What do you pay for the crane and operator in your area for stepping/unstepping a mast.
Al right everybody. What do you pay for the crane and operator in your area for stepping/unstepping a mast.
I paided
421.00 to truck the boat from my house to the boat ramp.. step the mast and launch. 15 to 20 miles from my house to the boat ramp.
421.00 to truck the boat from my house to the boat ramp.. step the mast and launch. 15 to 20 miles from my house to the boat ramp.
in Canada...
...especialy the maritimes where the cost of leaving is cheap and everyone has to take the masts out, we gang up, hire a boom truck to set/remove 5 or 6 masts on an evening and $50 CDNper mast. Many hand make light (and fast work). Haulout is done as a club at $100 a boat
...especialy the maritimes where the cost of leaving is cheap and everyone has to take the masts out, we gang up, hire a boom truck to set/remove 5 or 6 masts on an evening and $50 CDNper mast. Many hand make light (and fast work). Haulout is done as a club at $100 a boat
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