Mast Re-Wire

[Apex]

Sorry for those that have been through this over-and-over, but looking for specific info on wiring size:

Masthead contains LED anchor light: 9-33vdc, <1W
Steaming Light/Combo: 12V / 10W SV8.5 and 12V / 20W GX5.3 bulbs

what size wire, and does anyone have lengths readily available? ...for O'Day 28? I am planning using 4-conductor wire to the steaming light, then splicing to the top of the mast for the anchor light. At the base, a 4-pin waterproof quick connect.

Thanks for the hep.

 

[Ward H]

I use GenuineDealz marine voltage drop calculator. You would only be using one of the three bulbs at once, correct? 20W is 1.7 amps so using the calculator with your highest load, the deck light is probably what, 20' above the deck, 14g would be fine.
FYI, divide watts by volts for amps for use in the calculator. I used 2 amps.
And I am not an expert, just learned some things from this site and using the calculator, which I did a lot this spring when rewiring my O'day 25.
Main Sail and other sources say minimum voltage drop for running lights is 3% and that is total, from the battery to the light so you don't want to go with 3% just at the mast wiring.
Now I am curious to see what the experts say.

 

[Apex]

Thanks Ward: Yeah, I have the calculations matching yours, good to see. The experts word on acceptable losses and favored methods for splicing lines is greatly anticipated!

I was pleased to find inside the mast is a dedicated wire-way. Can I run the VHF and power together with little to no ill-effect? That cover is approx. 3/4" diameter...really nice setup.

 

[Brian S]

There is a lot of back and forth. ABYC says you should use tinned, stranded wire, with properly crimped adhesive shrink wrap crimps. I know lots of people who don't use tinned wire, or stranded wire, or who solder Western Union splices and on and on. MaineSail (R. C. Collins) won't steer you wrong, and he is an ABYC member who has sat on standards committees: http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/wire_termination

 

[Apex]

yep, read and re-read. Wiring ordered, 18-2 tinned wire to the anchor light (LED Hella Compact) and a completely separate run 14-3 tinned to the combo deck/steaming light.
Originally I planned to run one wire to the combo light, and then splice upwards to the anchor.

RG213 coax, with solder terminals also on order. Spent several hours on pbase site studying that article as well.

 

[Apex]

so after additional investigation on methods: Anyone have a take on two prominent methods I found for solder PL259's?

1) tin braid prior to trimming to length, installing fitting and then solder to the tinned braid.
2) Fold back braid, installing the fitting which creates the contact to the barrel via compression with the outer jacket.

#2 avoids hazards of cold solder that I expect to find with heating the barrel while not melting the dielectric. Seems similar but a slight variation on MaineSails article on the crimp style.

 

[jibes138]

If your wire is tinned already you shouldn't need to tin it before inserting it into the connector? If you are not using pre-tinned wire then return it where you bought it and buy pre-tinned wire. I had some wire on a previous boat that wasn't pre-tinned. When I replaced it I wanted to see how far up the jacket the corrosion was eating the wire. I never found where it wasn't discolored.