Mast Post compression

[gwynedd192]

I have a 27 foot 1980 Hunter that shows signs of mast compression into the cabin roof. I need to make an effective repair this fall after it has been hauled. Is there any literature or reference in a book that could explain any technique that I could use to make a correction to this? Hunter customer service has indicated that they have few or no drawings that show this assembly, and they have not been able to refer me to a source of literature, so there is apparently no anectdotal information that I can get from them.

 

[Bill Edmundson]

Compression Post

Go to the Cherubini Hunters Archives.Do a search on compression post. This has been a topic many times. The problem could be up on deck or at the bottom of the post.I'm looking forward to this, also.My problem is at the bottom.Bill

 

[steve rainey]

compression post sag

I went thru this last year. I took down the mast, and removed the step. Then cut the raised area ( a raised area T shaped about 2' port to starboard and about 1.5' bow to stern) around the mast step down to the cabin top liner. Had to cut out the plywood of course which had no business in being in there to begin with. Careful not to cut into the side of the raised area thats needed to gauge how high to build up the glass. I layed fiber glass all the way to the deck top, put a couple coats of gel coat and sanded it down and painted it. I now have a soild base for the mast step and if it gets wet it wont' matter. I also welded shut the nanufactured hole in the base of the mast step. All it did was provide a place to trap water and leak it to the bolts that tie it down to the pressure post and cause future rot problems. We all know water comes down the inside of the mast and it needs a clear path way to drain. Also welded in an 8 inch long conduit for the mast wiriing. Used to come out of the side of the mast and in thru a hole in the deck. Bad idea! I pulled the pressure post, and ground out the iron I beam it sets on. Had one made of of 1/4" SS. Locked it in with West Marine Apoxy. I turned the pressure post upside down so the screw holes are new when reappling the teak trim to the side. As a side note when painting your deck, spend the extra few bucks and used 2 part appoxy. Theres a world of difference...anyway just jump into it, see how its built and build it better. Good Luck

 

[gwynedd192]

Clarification

There is an obvious "swail" on the deck mast step (the "T" shaped area), and that will need to be reconstructed this fall. However, there appears to be a small amount of the same inside at the bottom of the interior post. The interior post seems to be all wood, box constructed, so I am assuming that covers over an interior strength member of some sort. The head door seems to be a bit out of alignment, so that is a clue to me that there may be more interior compression than I originally thought. There is teak/holly sole attached to the interior floor pan. Can I assume that there will be a need to somehow remove the sole, and is there a way to do that so not to be distructive? Also, once that is pulled up, what is the next step? Cut open the interior deck/pan, and how much of it?Thanks for the response to date, gets me to thinking in advance what to look for.

 

[steve rainey]

Mast Sag

On my 1978 30', I didn't remove the sole. I'd take down the mast, remove the pressure post and see whats happening. The only two places where there is likely problems is in the cabin top and the support for the pressure post. My sole lays around the pressure post. Didn't need to remove it. When I put in the new SS I-beam I made sure it was up above the sole so the pressure is on the the I-beam and not on the sole and supporting glass flooring. It wasn't all that much of a job once I decided to jump into it and do it..