I have read some previous posts on mast banging noises. It seems the best bet is to remove the bottom and top caps on the mast and slide a foam conduit over the mast wires. The boat is in storage (still over 3 feet of ice on our lakes). I think the caps are rivited on or somewhat perminently fixed. Has anyone done this job? If I do file the rivots off how do I get new rivots in when you can't get a tool in to support the back side of the rivots?? Will the foam conduit quiet the noise? The clanging is present even in light boat movement.
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John Revenboer
Halyard Mast noise
On my 260 there is some mast noise from the electrical wiring inside of the mast, but most of the noise comes from the main and jib halyards slapping on the outside of the mast. Tensioning these halyards then using bungee cords to tie them away from the mast to the shrouds takes away almost all of the noise.
On my 260 there is some mast noise from the electrical wiring inside of the mast, but most of the noise comes from the main and jib halyards slapping on the outside of the mast. Tensioning these halyards then using bungee cords to tie them away from the mast to the shrouds takes away almost all of the noise.
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Hayden Jones
I had similar noise from the radio wire inside the mast. If you use the self locking plastic ties (can get them in any hardware store, put 3 or 4 around the wire(s) without cutting off the excess tails, at about 2' intervals (all with their tails pointing in different directions, the wire(s) will be held in the middle of the mast and eliminate noise. It's cheaper than foam tubes. I can't help you withthe cap problem. I'd ask a rigger before I started filing rivets. Fair winds
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Ron Johns
plastic ties?
The tie idea sounds good but how do I get them on. Presumably one would pull the wires out(attaching a string first to re install them) add the ties and pull back through mast. Is this what you mean?
The tie idea sounds good but how do I get them on. Presumably one would pull the wires out(attaching a string first to re install them) add the ties and pull back through mast. Is this what you mean?
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Hayden Jones
That's the general idea. The problem
comes where the wires pass through the mast. My mast was open onthe bottom. I tied a line to the top ends of the wire, pulled them out the bottom of the mast, secured the ties to the wires and pulled them back up through the hole inthe mast at the top. Hope it helps.
comes where the wires pass through the mast. My mast was open onthe bottom. I tied a line to the top ends of the wire, pulled them out the bottom of the mast, secured the ties to the wires and pulled them back up through the hole inthe mast at the top. Hope it helps.
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Bryan Howell
Pop rivets
Without looking at the actual setup, I can't guarantee they will work, but pop rivets work very well in light to medium duty applications. I have used them with success in many automotive situations, even on a USAF F-4 fighter long ago when I worked on such critters. All you need is a hole to place the rivet in, a pop rivet tool (inexpensive), a pop rivet, insert rivet, squeeze and you're done. No need for access to the back side. The rivets come in a variety of sizes.
Without looking at the actual setup, I can't guarantee they will work, but pop rivets work very well in light to medium duty applications. I have used them with success in many automotive situations, even on a USAF F-4 fighter long ago when I worked on such critters. All you need is a hole to place the rivet in, a pop rivet tool (inexpensive), a pop rivet, insert rivet, squeeze and you're done. No need for access to the back side. The rivets come in a variety of sizes.
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Rick Webb
Done It on Mine
I drilled the rivets out to get at mine. I think they were #8 or #10 SS. All you have to do is drill the head off then you can push the rest of the rivet back throught he other way.
I drilled the rivets out to get at mine. I think they were #8 or #10 SS. All you have to do is drill the head off then you can push the rest of the rivet back throught he other way.
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Ray Bowles
Rivets come in many different metals and combos
You can get stainless steel, aluminium, steel etc, and in combinations such as alum coller/steel shaft etc. There are rivets to fit any size hole, many different depths and metal requirements.
You can get stainless steel, aluminium, steel etc, and in combinations such as alum coller/steel shaft etc. There are rivets to fit any size hole, many different depths and metal requirements.
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Craig Nelson
Tap the holes
On my 23.5, I used a drill to remove the rivets and then when I had the top and bottom castings out, I tapped them and used SS bolts in them. If I ever need to get back in there, it will be a lot easier. I used the foam tubes and it quieted down the wires, but the internal halyards still make some noise. I don't know how to make them be quiet.
On my 23.5, I used a drill to remove the rivets and then when I had the top and bottom castings out, I tapped them and used SS bolts in them. If I ever need to get back in there, it will be a lot easier. I used the foam tubes and it quieted down the wires, but the internal halyards still make some noise. I don't know how to make them be quiet.
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Tom
Quiet Halyards...
I attach the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, the Main to a stancion base, then pull them tight and tie them off at the cleats. This keeps them quiet. My 1999 H260 has mast light wiring and added antenna cable running through a conduit that was factory installed so they don't bang around. The only noise I get occasionally is humming from the rigging when the wind is just the right velocity. Fair winds... Tom
I attach the jib halyard to the bow pulpit, the Main to a stancion base, then pull them tight and tie them off at the cleats. This keeps them quiet. My 1999 H260 has mast light wiring and added antenna cable running through a conduit that was factory installed so they don't bang around. The only noise I get occasionally is humming from the rigging when the wind is just the right velocity. Fair winds... Tom
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Susan Hopkins
The cable ties work great!
All of the noise in our mast was from slapping antenna and mast light wires, so we did the cable-tie thing about a month ago since the mast was convenient to work on in our basement. We disconnected the wires from the masthead fittings and attached a fish line to each. Leaving the wires intact at their exits at the base of the mast and with the halyards pulled tight, we hooked the wires through the hole for the mast-raising pole and pulled them out. We used three 6" cables ties in a spoke configuration every three feet, tying the two electrical wires together. Getting the whole thing back up the mast was time-consuming because of the added friction of the cable ties and run-ins with two big wasp nests in the mast, but it was worth it--silence at last!
All of the noise in our mast was from slapping antenna and mast light wires, so we did the cable-tie thing about a month ago since the mast was convenient to work on in our basement. We disconnected the wires from the masthead fittings and attached a fish line to each. Leaving the wires intact at their exits at the base of the mast and with the halyards pulled tight, we hooked the wires through the hole for the mast-raising pole and pulled them out. We used three 6" cables ties in a spoke configuration every three feet, tying the two electrical wires together. Getting the whole thing back up the mast was time-consuming because of the added friction of the cable ties and run-ins with two big wasp nests in the mast, but it was worth it--silence at last!
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