Mast Down - getting to the wires

[Alex B.]

I have taken on the project of re-wiring the mast, since it is down. I have read other posts and realize that to gain access to the wires run in the compression post, i need to remove the access panel which the head door hangs on. Problem is, i have done that and the wall/bulkhead of the head is still obscuring any access to the wires in the post. Do i have to remove that wall? Which also means removing the shelves, etc in the head.Also, on the topic of compression. I don't see any change in the beam which could compare to some photos i have seen on this sight, however, i do have some compression in the cieling where there is a ridge just forward of the compression post. The wood in the post what little i can see, looks fine, except for the very bottom which appears to have some water damage (from shower?). Should i call in a yard "expert" to tell me if there is damage, or is there a sure fire way to tell, that is easier that cutting into the fibreglass to see the beam.Thanks!

 

[Barry]

h34 Wiring / Compression Post

Don't feel bad Alex I couldn't see my wiring when I removed that panel either. I think the early production models were different in 1983. I was going to rewire mine this year but my yard didn't have enough room to store the mast during winter. I may end up doing it in June.I recommend you remove the entire teak cover from the compression post for inspection. In addition to helping you find the wires you can verify the integrity of the post. It could be rotted inside where you can't see. I don't think removeal of the wall is necessary. On mine the Hunter craftsmen notched a large area out of the bottom right side of the post base to allow wires to pass up from the fiberglass below. This left very little support area on the original beam. I'll likely replace mine with stainless steel even if it looks OK. If you're concerned about the integrity of the wood inside the top beam I'd drill a small test hole and see if you can detect wet or rotten wood there.I'm launching this weekend after a few weeks of keel sand blasting and epxoy work. I'll stop by your yard this weekend if I get time.Barry (bolsen34@aol.com)

 

[Brian]

H34 wiring and compression post

I repaired the compression post on my 1985 H34 about 15 months ago. If the 83's are similar to the 85's, you should be able to get to the compression post wiring by removing the teak panel on the port side of the post. The 2x4's inside the teak will have a substantial portion cut away to allow the wiring to pass into the overhead beam (the 2x4s are glued together with a big section of the center cut away forming a u-shaped configuration with the open end of the "u" facing port).If you have gotten this far, I suggest you go ahead and replace the post. I did not have any signs of water damage, but I did see some of the compression you mentioned. I cut into the fiberglass cross beam and found that a significant portion of the cross beam cut away to allow the wiring to pass into the mast. This caused the remaining fiberglass to carry a substantial load and therefore buckle. I followed the basic steps shown in the photo forum to do the repair except for the following.- I used a 2.5" extra strong stainless steel pipe as a column. I removed most of old 2x4s from the existing post using a table saw leaving about 1/2" towards the bow side and the teak cover as is on the starboard and stern sides. The 2.5" ss pipe will fit inside the resulting "u" shape.- I used aluminum plates at the top and bottom of the post to distribute the load. The top plate is 4.75x6.75x 3/4". The 6.75" length was sufficient to span the notch cut in the cross beam. A 1' dia. hole is cut in the top plate to allow the wiring to pass through. The bottom plate is 3/4" thick and cut to fit inside the teak post covering. As a result, I had to shorten the teak covering 3/4.- The ss post has a hole drilled near the floor to allow the wiring to pass into the post. The wiring then runs through the post to the mast.- I was going to cover the top plate with teak, but decided to just polish up the aluminum instead.I removed the bulk head wall to do all this but I think you might be able to avoid that if you remove the seat and holding tank next to the post. I hope this helps. Good luck.  You can email me at bramsey833@aol.com if you have any questions.

 

[jim oursler]

hold it./.. don't remove the teak

The compression post is held to the bulkhead by screws in the head side of the bulkhead. I believe that you have to remove the head door and/or frame... Don't remove the teak around the post.. You will also have to remove the top of the forward seat in the cabin I think to get to all the wiring.. and perhaps a screw or two.. You can call me at +1 214 244 5239Regards,Jim