Mast compression rust

Status
Not open for further replies.
rhythmsurfer

rhythmsurfer

.
Oct 29, 2010
136
Hunter 36 Pensacola
Anyone else replaced their rusted out compression foundation in the bilge? I am planning on using a bottle jack and placing a 4X4 in place. The 4X4 will fit inside of what is left of the post. Question: Should I use a saws all or hacksaw to cut through what is left of the pipe and glass so that I will have a flush foundation? The boat is a 1981 Hunter 36 that took on rainwater through the engine cover. 8 inches to be exact. The PO lived out of town and could not save it so I got a good deal. Then on days like today I think of selling it. this after a TOTAL rigging job and thousands dollars spen on a new rudder and bottom job. Any thoughts?
Tony
P6130066.jpg

P6130054.jpg

P6130062.jpg

This is what it looks like
 
Last edited:
Ross

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Rake out everything that is bad so that we can see what's left. Doesn't look too bad to me. After you get the mess cleaned out build up a new mast step with pressure treated lumber. Turn a new mast base and bond the whole works with PL Premium polyurethane adhesive.
 
rhythmsurfer

rhythmsurfer

.
Oct 29, 2010
136
Hunter 36 Pensacola
Should I saw this flush?

Ross,
Should I saw this flush? i.e. the part where the glass meets the leftover rusted tube.
 

Attachments

S

Steve Dion

.
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
I would not use treated lumber in the bilge. I think you best best is to get some measurements from another H'36 owner and have a new step made from a proper metal. If the material is NOT aluminum, then it may be wise to isolate the two metals from each other.

Rardi should be able to give you an idea on the size. Also check with the SBO store and see if they have any source for some of the parts.
 
Ross

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
rhythmsurfer said:
Ross,
Should I saw this flush? i.e. the part where the glass meets the leftover rusted tube.
Click to expand
You have a whole bunch of junk to remove before you can start putting thing back together. Work your way back to what looks like boat. The builder put some low alloy steel in a place that called for a whole lot of corrosion reesistance.
 
Ross

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Steve Dion said:
I would not use treated lumber in the bilge. I think you best best is to get some measurements from another H'36 owner and have a new step made from a proper metal. If the material is NOT aluminum, then it may be wise to isolate the two metals from each other.

Rardi should be able to give you an idea on the size. Also check with the SBO store and see if they have any source for some of the parts.
Click to expand
Why wouldn't you use pressure treated lumber in the bilge???
 
Allan12210

Allan12210

.
Jan 22, 2008
1,702
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
And even if it didn't rot, wet wood (its in the bilge) is not as strong as dry wood. Don't try and cast epoxy in the large area. It will get way too hot during cure. You could build a form and fill it with concrete after getting the post out of the way. It will self level at the floor pan or trowel it. That way it takes care of the uneven bottom surface and gives you a new mast step surface (via the compression post). Its as strong as you will ever want in compression and won't rot.
 
Ross

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Pressure treated wood doesn't rot !! that is why it is pressure treated! Trees are very wet for their entire lives and strong enough to stand up in the storms.Almost all seawalls and breakwaters and docks are built of PT wood.
 
RichH

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Ross said:
Why wouldn't you use pressure treated lumber in the bilge???
Click to expand
Because pressure treated lumber eventually also rots, it can take time to do so but pressure treating only 'delays' the rotting.

Better to use a 'filled' (chopped fiber filler) fiberglass if youre going to install a mast butt 'pedestal'. Easy to 'mold up' in the form/shape that you want.
 
Ross

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
RichH said:
Because pressure treated lumber eventually also rots, it can take time to do so but pressure treating only 'delays' the rotting.

Better to use a 'filled' (chopped fiber filler) fiberglass if youre going to install a mast butt 'pedestal'. Easy to 'mold up' in the form/shape that you want.
Click to expand
Kinda makes you wonder how they built wooden boats. Pressure treated lumber costs about 15 dollars per cuft and will stay in servicable condition for thirty years. How much does filled resin cost per cuft?
 
RichH

RichH

.
Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
Not any more, Ross.

When creosote and arsenic compounds were used, pressure treating was effective for very long periods of time.
The example I give is simple pressure treated 'garden ties' which now only last 10-12 years ... the old arsenic/creosote treated ties from 40 years ago will still be there 40 years from now.

The currently available 'pressure treated' uses Alkaline Copper Quaternary (ACQ), Copper Azole (CA), Micronized Copper Quaternary (MCQ) ... and the best 'guarantee' you can get is 20 years.
If you cut or drill, etc. into it you'll be very lucky to have it intact for more than 'just a few' years, as these 'new' preservatives simply dont penetrate thoroughly beyond the surface and into the depth of the wood. Fiberglass on the other hand will still be there hundreds of years from now.

As Tommays puts it .... do it only ONCE and done.
 
robertsapp

robertsapp

.
May 28, 2009
764
Hunter 376 Pensacola, FL
I've seen the concrete used before like Allan mentioned. It works really well. Not a traditional solution, but a bag of non-shrink precision grout will run you ten or twelve bucks, and will never rot, rust, or delaminate.
 
rhythmsurfer

rhythmsurfer

.
Oct 29, 2010
136
Hunter 36 Pensacola
Tommays,
I am VERY impressed. I am a perfectionist and ashamed at the pictures that I am about to post. Today I realized that in order to do the job right I must get the mast pulled. I used a bottle jack with a small piece of wood to evenly distribute the load. Here is what happened today in order: 1. I loosened the rigging. 2. Vacuumed all the left over rust 3. placed the bottle jack and raised the sole/floor. 3. cut a 4X4 to fit in what was left of the the base compression post and cut a second piece to fit between the bottom 4X4 and the flat piece of glass underneath the sole ( fiberglass between the compression post and the piece of metal that rotted away in the bilge) 4. I pulled out the jack 5. I tightened the rigging Before I tightened the rigging there was maybe a 2-3 mm gap between the two pieces of wood. After tightening the rigging there was no gap. This is a temporary solution and I would like to stress to all: The bilge is dry where this is located. This probably wouldn't have rusted/given away if it wasn't for the 8" of rain water (seeped in due to the cockpit drains being stopped up with oysters/barnacles, engine cover gasket gave way, float switch failed) that sat in the boat for a month. That is when I found the boat and offered a the PO a good deal. I feel like selling the boat now...?????? Any takers???? Nah tomorrow is a new day and the beer eased the frustration so that I may have a little more time to think things through. Thanks all I will keep you posted.
 
rhythmsurfer

rhythmsurfer

.
Oct 29, 2010
136
Hunter 36 Pensacola
Tommays,
I am VERY impressed. I am a perfectionist and ashamed at the pictures that I am about to post. Today I realized that in order to do the job right I must get the mast pulled. I used a bottle jack with a small piece of wood to evenly distribute the load. Here is what happened today in order: 1. I loosened the rigging. 2. Vacuumed all the left over rust 3. placed the bottle jack and raised the sole/floor. 3. cut a 4X4 to fit in what was left of the the base compression post and cut a second piece to fit between the bottom 4X4 and the flat piece of glass underneath the sole ( fiberglass between the compression post and the piece of metal that rotted away in the bilge) 4. I pulled out the jack 5. I tightened the rigging Before I tightened the rigging there was maybe a 2-3 mm gap between the two pieces of wood. After tightening the rigging there was no gap. This is a temporary solution and I would like to stress to all: The bilge is dry where this is located. This probably wouldn't have rusted/given away if it wasn't for the 8" of rain water (seeped in due to the cockpit drains being stopped up with oysters/barnacles, engine cover gasket gave way, float switch failed) that sat in the boat for a month. That is when I found the boat and offered a the PO a good deal. I feel like selling the boat now...?????? Any takers???? Nah tomorrow is a new day and the beer eased the frustration so that I may have a little more time to think things through. Thanks all I will keep you posted.
 

Attachments

Status
Not open for further replies.

Top Bottom