My buddy and I were sailing on Lake Erie today (Oct 30th) and the day was going great. 15 knot winds out of the south, waves 2 feet or less. We were probably doing about 5 or 6 knots and we got a bit of a gust and the mast just snapped clean off where it connects to the deck!!! I have some pics, so go to the website I posted and let me know what you all think I can do to fix the boat up. I looked at D and R's website and I really dont have that kind of money to spend. I was thinking about mounting a metal sleeve or boot like contraption that the base of the mast would fit in, or maybe fabricated a piece to fit inside the mast and to be fastned to it. Luckily nobody was hurt and we had a full tank of gas in the outboard cause we were a few miles out, but man what a way to end the season. I look foward to hearing what you all have to say.
MAST BROKE WHILE SAILING!!!!!
- Thread starter David ONeill
- Start date
- Status
David, there is a lot you are not telling us!
David, for this to happen, your rigging must have been extremely loose. As for the repair, I would cut 1/2" or less off the end of the mast and remount the mast foot. You can drill through the mast into the foot and retap the threads in the foot then slightly oversize the holes in the mast so that the new stailess bolt/ screw will not bind in the mast. Remember that your rigging is only tuneable until the turnbuckles bottom out. But something more has caused this and my only thought is that your rigging was dangerously loose. r.w.landau
David, for this to happen, your rigging must have been extremely loose. As for the repair, I would cut 1/2" or less off the end of the mast and remount the mast foot. You can drill through the mast into the foot and retap the threads in the foot then slightly oversize the holes in the mast so that the new stailess bolt/ screw will not bind in the mast. Remember that your rigging is only tuneable until the turnbuckles bottom out. But something more has caused this and my only thought is that your rigging was dangerously loose. r.w.landau
Repair Before Cutting
I'll repeat the email I sent you on the mail list, just in case folks here (that aren't on the list) want to agree, disagree, or add to it: First of all, your damage is not as extensive as you may think. Your mast didn't really break, the holes for the mast hinge ripped out, but that's not a major problem. However, I suspect you have more problems than the mast hinge. First, on the mast: The mast hinge assembly is the thing that's in your hand. You can buy both parts of the hinge (the part that attaches to the deck, and the part that attaches to the plug), the plug (it's the soft aluminum part that fits in the mast), and new pins for a little less than $100. Were that my problem, I would do one of two things. The FIRST thing I would try is to mix two part epoxy with aluminum filler to fill in the holes and torn out area. I would then smooth it out with a Dremel, sander, whatever, and redrill the holes. Then I would attach it all to a new mast hinge. West Systems has a link that describes the type of aluminum filler that I'm talking about. While this link describes a different project, you can see the information about aluminum filler, and apply it here. Here's the link: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/14/Stardustwindows.html If that didn't work, I'd simply saw off the portion that's ripped out, making that the new bottom of the mast, but I'd really only do that as a last resort. You'd have to remember from that point on that your shrouds and stays are "non-standard" and would need to be cut shorter. The mast is really not broken. That portion of the mast is only used to keep the base from sliding around, so it doesn't really have to be extremely stout. In its original configuration, it's only got 4 small screws holding it in place. Which brings us to the REAL problem: What caused the mast to come down? This is NOT the "root problem". This hinge giving way is because either a shroud broke, was WAY too loose, or a chainplate or fitting gave way. That is your real issue. If it's a chainplate, you probably would have mentioned it. That would be a pretty big job (I know, I just finished replacing mine, which is why I know how much the mast hinge costs). My stronger suspicion is that a shroud gave way, or a stay. If that's the case, that would definitely need to be replaced. My strong suggestion would be to replace ALL of the shrouds and stays. While this is a bit of a financial bite, it's something that MUST be done from time to time anyway. A new set of shrouds will cost $480 from D&R marine. No matter the reason for the mast coming down, the shrouds are almost certainly damaged now. I would replace all of them. I strongly suspect that was the primary cause for the dismasting. New mast hinge - $100 Materials to repair mast base - $50-$75 New shrouds and stays - $480 Total cost of repair - $630 Peace of mind while sailing the next 10 years - Priceless
I'll repeat the email I sent you on the mail list, just in case folks here (that aren't on the list) want to agree, disagree, or add to it: First of all, your damage is not as extensive as you may think. Your mast didn't really break, the holes for the mast hinge ripped out, but that's not a major problem. However, I suspect you have more problems than the mast hinge. First, on the mast: The mast hinge assembly is the thing that's in your hand. You can buy both parts of the hinge (the part that attaches to the deck, and the part that attaches to the plug), the plug (it's the soft aluminum part that fits in the mast), and new pins for a little less than $100. Were that my problem, I would do one of two things. The FIRST thing I would try is to mix two part epoxy with aluminum filler to fill in the holes and torn out area. I would then smooth it out with a Dremel, sander, whatever, and redrill the holes. Then I would attach it all to a new mast hinge. West Systems has a link that describes the type of aluminum filler that I'm talking about. While this link describes a different project, you can see the information about aluminum filler, and apply it here. Here's the link: http://www.westsystem.com/ewmag/14/Stardustwindows.html If that didn't work, I'd simply saw off the portion that's ripped out, making that the new bottom of the mast, but I'd really only do that as a last resort. You'd have to remember from that point on that your shrouds and stays are "non-standard" and would need to be cut shorter. The mast is really not broken. That portion of the mast is only used to keep the base from sliding around, so it doesn't really have to be extremely stout. In its original configuration, it's only got 4 small screws holding it in place. Which brings us to the REAL problem: What caused the mast to come down? This is NOT the "root problem". This hinge giving way is because either a shroud broke, was WAY too loose, or a chainplate or fitting gave way. That is your real issue. If it's a chainplate, you probably would have mentioned it. That would be a pretty big job (I know, I just finished replacing mine, which is why I know how much the mast hinge costs). My stronger suspicion is that a shroud gave way, or a stay. If that's the case, that would definitely need to be replaced. My strong suggestion would be to replace ALL of the shrouds and stays. While this is a bit of a financial bite, it's something that MUST be done from time to time anyway. A new set of shrouds will cost $480 from D&R marine. No matter the reason for the mast coming down, the shrouds are almost certainly damaged now. I would replace all of them. I strongly suspect that was the primary cause for the dismasting. New mast hinge - $100 Materials to repair mast base - $50-$75 New shrouds and stays - $480 Total cost of repair - $630 Peace of mind while sailing the next 10 years - Priceless
Herb, TheTabernackle did not ripe out of the deck.
The mast riped off the foot. The repair to the mast would not be of adequate strength to hold. I believe that product is to fill non structural aluminum damage. If the mast is not deformed at the foot I would just reattach with new holes and tap the foot. If it is deformed, I would trim it. r.w.landau
The mast riped off the foot. The repair to the mast would not be of adequate strength to hold. I believe that product is to fill non structural aluminum damage. If the mast is not deformed at the foot I would just reattach with new holes and tap the foot. If it is deformed, I would trim it. r.w.landau
cut your losses
Cut your losses by a few inches. Trim off the bottom of your mast, reinstall the step onto the tabernacle, shorten your NEW stays, reattach all and go. The same thing happened to the PO of my boat, so when I got it, it did not have the correct size shrouds, and the forstay was in 2 parts. I renewed all three stays. The PO had repaired the mast, but it was shorter now by about 6 inches. He used aluminum weld to beef up the new joint. When tuning your new rig, the leeward shroud should be just slack (not sloppy)when on a reach.
Cut your losses by a few inches. Trim off the bottom of your mast, reinstall the step onto the tabernacle, shorten your NEW stays, reattach all and go. The same thing happened to the PO of my boat, so when I got it, it did not have the correct size shrouds, and the forstay was in 2 parts. I renewed all three stays. The PO had repaired the mast, but it was shorter now by about 6 inches. He used aluminum weld to beef up the new joint. When tuning your new rig, the leeward shroud should be just slack (not sloppy)when on a reach.
Forgot to Mention Possible Corrosion
There is one thing I forgot to mention. When my mast came down, I examined all of the parts of the hinge closely. the bottom part of the hinge is attached to the deck with stainless steel boats. The top part of the hinge is attached to plug by two sheet metal type scres, and the plug is attached to the mast with 4 small screws (my boat's an O'Day 25, the 22 appears to be slightly different). One thing that kept striking me when I looked over the assembly is how soft they made the plug in the aluminum. I also thought long and hard about how I dodged a bullet by the $100 hinge breaking instead of the $2100 mast. Something finally hit me, I believe the mast hinge and plug are deliberatly designed to fail in order to prevent the mast from breaking in case of a shroud failure. I don't know that I'd bet my life on it, but I'm pretty sure this is the case. If so, then we'd have to wonder why your stronger aluminum mast ripped out through the holes instead of the plug. I'd have to add to this that you should inspect the bottom of the mast for corrosion. It's a comman area for water (sea water?) to collect. If it's corroded, then that would definitely indicate you should trim the base instead of trying to repair it.
There is one thing I forgot to mention. When my mast came down, I examined all of the parts of the hinge closely. the bottom part of the hinge is attached to the deck with stainless steel boats. The top part of the hinge is attached to plug by two sheet metal type scres, and the plug is attached to the mast with 4 small screws (my boat's an O'Day 25, the 22 appears to be slightly different). One thing that kept striking me when I looked over the assembly is how soft they made the plug in the aluminum. I also thought long and hard about how I dodged a bullet by the $100 hinge breaking instead of the $2100 mast. Something finally hit me, I believe the mast hinge and plug are deliberatly designed to fail in order to prevent the mast from breaking in case of a shroud failure. I don't know that I'd bet my life on it, but I'm pretty sure this is the case. If so, then we'd have to wonder why your stronger aluminum mast ripped out through the holes instead of the plug. I'd have to add to this that you should inspect the bottom of the mast for corrosion. It's a comman area for water (sea water?) to collect. If it's corroded, then that would definitely indicate you should trim the base instead of trying to repair it.
Simple solution!
There is a simple and inexpensive solution to your problem. Your mast had been modified! They replaced the aluminum rivets with stainless steel screws. This caused calvanic corrosion and allowed the mast to pull off the plug. The corrosion is only around the holes in your mast, and not anywhere else. If you file down the sharp edges, and re-form the mast around the plug, all you need to do is to drill new holes - away from the corroded holes - into the mast and the plug, then tap the plug. Go to West Marine and ask for a tube of compound which will reduce galvanic corrosion when using stainless bolts and aluminum. The tube may cost about $12.00. put this on the screws before you screw them in. Or, if you feel lucky, you can get some aluminum rivets and rivet the plugs back in. I would then put some rigging tape around my handy work, just for looks. You probably had your rigging too loose. Check it out before you do additonal damage! The standing rigging may also be damaged and should be inspected and replaced as needed along with your speaders. Keep the wind in your sails! Paul "Fine As Frog's Hair"
There is a simple and inexpensive solution to your problem. Your mast had been modified! They replaced the aluminum rivets with stainless steel screws. This caused calvanic corrosion and allowed the mast to pull off the plug. The corrosion is only around the holes in your mast, and not anywhere else. If you file down the sharp edges, and re-form the mast around the plug, all you need to do is to drill new holes - away from the corroded holes - into the mast and the plug, then tap the plug. Go to West Marine and ask for a tube of compound which will reduce galvanic corrosion when using stainless bolts and aluminum. The tube may cost about $12.00. put this on the screws before you screw them in. Or, if you feel lucky, you can get some aluminum rivets and rivet the plugs back in. I would then put some rigging tape around my handy work, just for looks. You probably had your rigging too loose. Check it out before you do additonal damage! The standing rigging may also be damaged and should be inspected and replaced as needed along with your speaders. Keep the wind in your sails! Paul "Fine As Frog's Hair"
Corrosion
Can't say for sure on the O'Day 22, but on my 25, the mast plug didn't use rivets. The design really doesn't lend itself to rivets, as the plug is extremely thick at that point. Mine had stainless steel screws screwed into tapped holes in the base. However, Paul's probably on to something on the fact that stainless and aluminum can combine to cause corrosion. That may well be why the holes tore through instead of the base pulling free.
Can't say for sure on the O'Day 22, but on my 25, the mast plug didn't use rivets. The design really doesn't lend itself to rivets, as the plug is extremely thick at that point. Mine had stainless steel screws screwed into tapped holes in the base. However, Paul's probably on to something on the fact that stainless and aluminum can combine to cause corrosion. That may well be why the holes tore through instead of the base pulling free.
O'Day used stainless screws to make
the connection and installed a zinc under the mast foot. That is what those two large round things are that you can see underneath in the second picture. r.w.landau
the connection and installed a zinc under the mast foot. That is what those two large round things are that you can see underneath in the second picture. r.w.landau
After Market Mast
I have an aftermarket Mast! It is rivetted, unfortunately. I was going to drill it out to put conduit in it when I ran the lights. I purchased the boat used with the mast already attached. IT HAD NO LIGHTS WHAT EVER! I had to put a masthead light and anchor light because I do run at night under power much of the time. As far as corrosion, the boom-vang attachment is stainless steel, so is the through bolt. I noticed a little white flaking around the bail so I took it apart. The boom had a 1/2" hole in it from the corrosion of the 3/16" through bolt. I ended up stuffing a 3/16" wall 3-1/2ft long aluminum tube in the boom so I would feel secure about the boom-vang attachment. May be a bit of an "overkill", but better be safe then sorry. This stuff I got at West Marine works great to keep galvanic corrosion down on stainless steel bolts. I wish I could remember the name of it. Sorry, but I am 150 miles from the boat as a result of Hurricane Wilma. We have no roof, no phones, and no power. My power may be turned back on in two to three weeks. The boat is, however, fine. The storm did rip off the forward hatch, but it did not tear it of completely. I made emergency repairs and it is fine. I did get some water in the cabin, but it was only two or 3 gallons, not much when you consider the hatch was 1/2 open and there was a hurricane blowing rain sideways. We clocked one gust at 133 miles an hour, and steady winds of 121 miles an hour for over 1 and 1/2 hours, while the south eye-wall of the storm went over our house. NOT MUCH FUN TRUST ME! Paul "Fine As Frog's Hair"
I have an aftermarket Mast! It is rivetted, unfortunately. I was going to drill it out to put conduit in it when I ran the lights. I purchased the boat used with the mast already attached. IT HAD NO LIGHTS WHAT EVER! I had to put a masthead light and anchor light because I do run at night under power much of the time. As far as corrosion, the boom-vang attachment is stainless steel, so is the through bolt. I noticed a little white flaking around the bail so I took it apart. The boom had a 1/2" hole in it from the corrosion of the 3/16" through bolt. I ended up stuffing a 3/16" wall 3-1/2ft long aluminum tube in the boom so I would feel secure about the boom-vang attachment. May be a bit of an "overkill", but better be safe then sorry. This stuff I got at West Marine works great to keep galvanic corrosion down on stainless steel bolts. I wish I could remember the name of it. Sorry, but I am 150 miles from the boat as a result of Hurricane Wilma. We have no roof, no phones, and no power. My power may be turned back on in two to three weeks. The boat is, however, fine. The storm did rip off the forward hatch, but it did not tear it of completely. I made emergency repairs and it is fine. I did get some water in the cabin, but it was only two or 3 gallons, not much when you consider the hatch was 1/2 open and there was a hurricane blowing rain sideways. We clocked one gust at 133 miles an hour, and steady winds of 121 miles an hour for over 1 and 1/2 hours, while the south eye-wall of the storm went over our house. NOT MUCH FUN TRUST ME! Paul "Fine As Frog's Hair"
- Status