mast base for H23

[billleathen]

Has anyone removed the mast base on a H23. I am planning to run the halyards aft and I want to add a metal plate to attach some new blocks. I would like to find out what people found when they removed the base, and what problems if any when re-installing the base. Any comments will be welcome.
Thanks,
Bill Leathen

 

[Jim Kolstoe]

It sounds like unnecessary work to me. I ran the halyards back to the cockpit on my h23 by leading both halyards out the same side of the mast (starboard), popriviting a set of turning blocks (ganged side by side) about 6" up from the mast base, running the lines to the ouside of the cabin top through another set of turning blocks and back to a ganged pair of rope clutches with a winch behind them. It works fine.Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo

 

[billleathen@aol.com]

thanks

Jim,
This is what I am trying to do. Any chance you could send a picture of your set up?
Thanks,
Bill Leathen

 

[fleetswell]

Has anyone removed the mast base on a H23. I am planning to run the halyards aft and I want to add a metal plate to attach some new blocks. I would like to find out what people found when they removed the base, and what problems if any when re-installing the base. Any comments will be welcome.
Thanks,
Bill Leathen

I removed mine about a week ago. I was tolde that there were perhaps 2-3 manufacturers for H23 masts. The one I have has five (5) 10-24 x5/8 inch SS slot head screws that go through the aluminum wall of the mast and thread into the aluminum mast base. We used quite a bit of penetrating oil over several days prior to screw removal. Using an impact driver and a light hammer we tapped on each screw to get it loose. The bad news was that 4 of the 5 screws broke off below the screw head. The good news was that the residual broken end of the screws were short enough to allow the mast to slide off the base. We did end up drilling out the 4 screws and re-tapping the base back to the 10-24 thread. we used button head socket cap screws as replacements. These use an allen wrench to tighten/loosen rather than the slot head. They are available from Fastenal.com in both 18-8 and 316 stainless steel. We also used Loctite #262 on the screw threads prior to assembly. Loctite #262 (also from Fastenal) "gives medium to high holding strength and prevention of corrosion in extreme environmental conditions" We removed the base to replace wiring for steaming and anchor lights, and it madd the job a lot easier.

 

[Brian M H23]

There is actually a casting for the Kenyon mast that has turning blocks in the bottom. Rig Rite has it for a few hundred.

On my boat, The metal plate that my turning blocks are attached to, is bolted to the deck under the mast step. Much simpler! And, it probably need to be re-bedded anyway!

 

[Jim Kolstoe]

pic of halyard run

I'll attempt to attach a picture showing the halyards coming down on the starboard side of the mast. Unfortunately, this was the only picture I could find in the house that showed that at all, and it was taken for a different purpose. I hope to get out to the boat on Saturday, and I'll try to borrow my son's camera phone and get a clearer shot. Assuming the picture attaches, I led both halyards down the starboard side (remember, original is one on each side) to a set of fairleads about six inches above the deck, then to another set of fairleads, these arranged on the flat, to turn the corner and run back to the cockpit. Look for the dark lump on the side of the mast, and the (barely visible) dark lump at the forward corner of the seahood.
Sorry to take so long.
Jim Kolstoe, h23 Kara's Boo