Need To Know If The Sales Person Was Pulling My Leg The Mast And Boom Had All Sorts Of Paint Bubbling Aroung Any Hardware On Them He Said A little Sanding And Paint Is All Thats Needed Is This The Norm The Boat Is A 1981 37ft Hunter And They Want 35k For Her It Realy Looks Bad And What Would Replaceing These Things Might Cost Thanks Happy Hollidays
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Bob Howie
Could be serious; but, then again, maybe not
I've seen this before and sometimes it's caused by a serious problem, sometimes it's not so serious, but in both cases, what you most likely have going on here is corrosion beneath the paint that is causing the paint to flake off. Corrosion is a problem that needs to be tended to or it's only going to get worst and result in some kind of failure at some point. Corrosion to aluminum is what rust is to steel and iron; principally the same process, just different manifestations of oxidations. If it is just simple corrosion at the attachments, then, yes, it's like that a good wire-brushing, some anti-oxidant treatment and quality paint will cure the problem. If that is the case, I would recommend making sure the metal is perfectly clean, treat with a product known as Ospho, shoot some zinc chromate on it as a primer and then paint it. It could also be electrolysis between disimilar metals, i.e., the mast/boom are aluminum and the fittings are a different metal, i.e., stainless steel or even different alloys of the same base metal. This is a more serious problem than simple oxidation in that electrolysis eats away more rapidly at the lesser metal in the mix, i.e., aluminum is attacked by stainless. There is a natural galvanic process that takes place between dissimilar metals and this flaking of the paint only at specific points where different metals metal would be evidence of that. Electrolysis promotes rapid corrosion and electrolysis can seriously weaken and even destroy or cause to fail various types structures. In some cases, particularly with aluminum, you sometimes get what's referred to as "filligree" or bunches of tiny holes. Certainly, you have a corrosion problem and I would suspect you have some electrolysis figuring in there somewhere too. You could face some fairly pricey fixes for these problems. Now, your question was semi-general and I've given a semi-general opinion. What I would do is go ahead and carefully flake some of this loose paint off with say the tip of a pocket knife and see what's under it. Then, I would take a point object like an ice pick or a scratch-awl and kinda gently whang away in the areas where this problem is occurring. If the corrosion problem is bad, the point end of the pick or awl is going to penetrate. If that happens, you got problems...or you're gonna get some reduction in price so you can fix this. Another thought...if you have some chaffed wiring to your masthead lights, spreader lights, instruments, whatever inside the mast and you are getting some DC leak, this could be causing an electrolysis problem, too, and that would certainly show up where dissimilar metals meet. You might want to haul the boat and take a hard look at the shaft, cutless bearings, rudder posts, strut and prop, too, in order to inspect for corrosion. If you have a DC leak, it won't be just on your boom and mast that you are having a problem. Oh, and if the broker howls at you whanging gently away on the corrosion and objects, go find another boat. Hope this helps.
I've seen this before and sometimes it's caused by a serious problem, sometimes it's not so serious, but in both cases, what you most likely have going on here is corrosion beneath the paint that is causing the paint to flake off. Corrosion is a problem that needs to be tended to or it's only going to get worst and result in some kind of failure at some point. Corrosion to aluminum is what rust is to steel and iron; principally the same process, just different manifestations of oxidations. If it is just simple corrosion at the attachments, then, yes, it's like that a good wire-brushing, some anti-oxidant treatment and quality paint will cure the problem. If that is the case, I would recommend making sure the metal is perfectly clean, treat with a product known as Ospho, shoot some zinc chromate on it as a primer and then paint it. It could also be electrolysis between disimilar metals, i.e., the mast/boom are aluminum and the fittings are a different metal, i.e., stainless steel or even different alloys of the same base metal. This is a more serious problem than simple oxidation in that electrolysis eats away more rapidly at the lesser metal in the mix, i.e., aluminum is attacked by stainless. There is a natural galvanic process that takes place between dissimilar metals and this flaking of the paint only at specific points where different metals metal would be evidence of that. Electrolysis promotes rapid corrosion and electrolysis can seriously weaken and even destroy or cause to fail various types structures. In some cases, particularly with aluminum, you sometimes get what's referred to as "filligree" or bunches of tiny holes. Certainly, you have a corrosion problem and I would suspect you have some electrolysis figuring in there somewhere too. You could face some fairly pricey fixes for these problems. Now, your question was semi-general and I've given a semi-general opinion. What I would do is go ahead and carefully flake some of this loose paint off with say the tip of a pocket knife and see what's under it. Then, I would take a point object like an ice pick or a scratch-awl and kinda gently whang away in the areas where this problem is occurring. If the corrosion problem is bad, the point end of the pick or awl is going to penetrate. If that happens, you got problems...or you're gonna get some reduction in price so you can fix this. Another thought...if you have some chaffed wiring to your masthead lights, spreader lights, instruments, whatever inside the mast and you are getting some DC leak, this could be causing an electrolysis problem, too, and that would certainly show up where dissimilar metals meet. You might want to haul the boat and take a hard look at the shaft, cutless bearings, rudder posts, strut and prop, too, in order to inspect for corrosion. If you have a DC leak, it won't be just on your boom and mast that you are having a problem. Oh, and if the broker howls at you whanging gently away on the corrosion and objects, go find another boat. Hope this helps.
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Peter Albright
Boat Value
Yachtworld is listing 13 Hunter 37's, between 1980 and 1982. The asking range is $32,000 to $48,000. Spend time using search, there islots about buying boats, the 37' cutter, and surveys. Good Luck Pete Albright s/v Nancy Ross '71 H30
Yachtworld is listing 13 Hunter 37's, between 1980 and 1982. The asking range is $32,000 to $48,000. Spend time using search, there islots about buying boats, the 37' cutter, and surveys. Good Luck Pete Albright s/v Nancy Ross '71 H30
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Jim
Sounds a little more than high
Sounds like an awful lot for a boat of that vintage. West Marine has a " Blue Book". Check it out. Condition and equipment will have a large play in the price of an older boat. If you are serious, offer 29K and you might just get it. If it is not in reasonably good condition, leave it alone no matter what the price is. You want enjoyment not a headache.
Sounds like an awful lot for a boat of that vintage. West Marine has a " Blue Book". Check it out. Condition and equipment will have a large play in the price of an older boat. If you are serious, offer 29K and you might just get it. If it is not in reasonably good condition, leave it alone no matter what the price is. You want enjoyment not a headache.
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Jim
P.S.
It is a buyer's market, use it to your advantage. What they ask and what they get is a big difference. Take your time and shop around.
It is a buyer's market, use it to your advantage. What they ask and what they get is a big difference. Take your time and shop around.
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David Undewood
I hear 37 owners love their boats!
Hey, I do hear lots of happy owners with this design, my 33 (1982) I love. Would not sell her for all the tea in china, well, maybe ... na, would not sell her for any amount of money.. well, maybe... na, hey, had her for 20 years.. we would be lost without each other, besides.. she knows all my faults and I know hers and neither of us is going to spill the beans on each other. Personally, if I were shopping.. 1982-1983 Cherubini designed Hunter is exactly what I would be after. Good Luck. David Underwood "Freebird" Hunter 33, 1982
Hey, I do hear lots of happy owners with this design, my 33 (1982) I love. Would not sell her for all the tea in china, well, maybe ... na, would not sell her for any amount of money.. well, maybe... na, hey, had her for 20 years.. we would be lost without each other, besides.. she knows all my faults and I know hers and neither of us is going to spill the beans on each other. Personally, if I were shopping.. 1982-1983 Cherubini designed Hunter is exactly what I would be after. Good Luck. David Underwood "Freebird" Hunter 33, 1982
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Ray Bowles
Bruce, I'd look alot more and harder before
making any committment on this boat. Let them fix all these types of problems before offering the boat for sail. We have been looking for 3 months on the "net" for a blue water boat in the 37 to 40 foot range and have found many, many better boats for the same price. If you look at the owner responses on this site about this exact size Hunter you might want to look further. Be absolutly solid in insisting that a survey be done and be there when it is out of the water while being done. You might find a lack of interest in doing this and that would speak volumns. Look at the boat offered on this site this week, it's in the same price range and will give you an idea of what is available in this price range. Ray S/V Speedy
making any committment on this boat. Let them fix all these types of problems before offering the boat for sail. We have been looking for 3 months on the "net" for a blue water boat in the 37 to 40 foot range and have found many, many better boats for the same price. If you look at the owner responses on this site about this exact size Hunter you might want to look further. Be absolutly solid in insisting that a survey be done and be there when it is out of the water while being done. You might find a lack of interest in doing this and that would speak volumns. Look at the boat offered on this site this week, it's in the same price range and will give you an idea of what is available in this price range. Ray S/V Speedy
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Ed Schenck
Corrosion?
You really do not want to consider buying a boat that has mast/boom corrosion. Can you scrape away some bubbles and see if there is corrosion under there? Even if it is just blistering paint it's a devil of a job to fix, and very costly. A new mast is about $45. a foot and that's without any hardware. That mast is 52 foot. There is way too much to do on a 20-year old boat to start that way. There are many nice H37Cs out there although you will pay more than $35K, closer to $40K. My 1979 H37C has a few scratches and scrapes but no corrosion. Not sure what Ray floats but be assured that there are not many dissatisfied H37C owners.
You really do not want to consider buying a boat that has mast/boom corrosion. Can you scrape away some bubbles and see if there is corrosion under there? Even if it is just blistering paint it's a devil of a job to fix, and very costly. A new mast is about $45. a foot and that's without any hardware. That mast is 52 foot. There is way too much to do on a 20-year old boat to start that way. There are many nice H37Cs out there although you will pay more than $35K, closer to $40K. My 1979 H37C has a few scratches and scrapes but no corrosion. Not sure what Ray floats but be assured that there are not many dissatisfied H37C owners.
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