Has anyone bought the add on weight torpedo from mars metal in canada? I have been emailing them and they propose a 650 pound addon for our 34ft hunter with shoal draft. These are made out of lead and are predrilled and attached with four one half inch stainless bolts. My big concern is the drilling of 5/8 inch holes in the keel that in the middle is about a foot thick. Has anyone gone thru this and if you have exactly what type of drill and how difficult was it? The whole idea is kindof interesting. We wouldnt mind adding some weight but that drilling HAS to be more difficult than one might think. thoughts? thanks. craig by the way cost would be about 2200 and that includes 300 for shipping.
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Thought about the same thing.
Craig: I have thought about the same thing. I do not think that drilling through cast iron is really that difficult. You would want a large/ powerful drill if you do this yourself, the yard can probably handle this much easier too. There is a post on the Photo Forum of exactly what you are describing. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Oshinski73118430019&fno=17
Craig: I have thought about the same thing. I do not think that drilling through cast iron is really that difficult. You would want a large/ powerful drill if you do this yourself, the yard can probably handle this much easier too. There is a post on the Photo Forum of exactly what you are describing. http://www.sailboatowners.com/upload/display.tpl?folder=Oshinski73118430019&fno=17
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Craig
Shoal vs Deep Draft
Steve Thanks for the link. That addon was on the deep draft version. Where the weight is located, the keel is not very thick. On our shoal draft, the keel is 4ft 3 and seems about a foot thick in the middle part of the bottom and this is what is bothering me. How on earth would a guy drill thru a foot of cast? And keeping the hole straight for that length seems to be another issue. He said it would attach with four bolts. The back one would be short but the others would be a different issue. If anyone has done this please chime in. thanks. craig.
Steve Thanks for the link. That addon was on the deep draft version. Where the weight is located, the keel is not very thick. On our shoal draft, the keel is 4ft 3 and seems about a foot thick in the middle part of the bottom and this is what is bothering me. How on earth would a guy drill thru a foot of cast? And keeping the hole straight for that length seems to be another issue. He said it would attach with four bolts. The back one would be short but the others would be a different issue. If anyone has done this please chime in. thanks. craig.
Turn the job over to a pro!
Craig: I think that this would be a job for a professional. They would need some type of a jig to make the holes level and parallel. I really do not think that the cast iron is that difficult to drill (but I have not done it either). I know that cast iron is sort of a brittle metal. We used to cut cast iron pipe with a chain cutter (for sewer pipes) and it snapped quite easily, but is very durable. I will be interested in hearing what you find out and others have to say.
Craig: I think that this would be a job for a professional. They would need some type of a jig to make the holes level and parallel. I really do not think that the cast iron is that difficult to drill (but I have not done it either). I know that cast iron is sort of a brittle metal. We used to cut cast iron pipe with a chain cutter (for sewer pipes) and it snapped quite easily, but is very durable. I will be interested in hearing what you find out and others have to say.
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Craig
Drill Possibility
One possibility per his email is to use a milwaukee "magnetic drill". He says others have used it with success but makes a comment about iron does not have alot of magnetic properties whatever that means. anyway i looked at the milwaukee website and it looks like a drill press. the bottom is one big magnet and would attach to the side of the keel and the drill is adjustable. The biggest and most important question is "Does this make a differnce"
One possibility per his email is to use a milwaukee "magnetic drill". He says others have used it with success but makes a comment about iron does not have alot of magnetic properties whatever that means. anyway i looked at the milwaukee website and it looks like a drill press. the bottom is one big magnet and would attach to the side of the keel and the drill is adjustable. The biggest and most important question is "Does this make a differnce"
It makes sense that it SHOULD help.
Craig: It only makes sense that it is going to make the boat sail a little flatter (maybe faster). The wings SHOULD give a slight lift too. Joe O had made some posts regarding the effects and was not sure that it made a difference. You really need two boats with identical sails to test the real effects of this mod. I would like to do it but have had the same delema.
Craig: It only makes sense that it is going to make the boat sail a little flatter (maybe faster). The wings SHOULD give a slight lift too. Joe O had made some posts regarding the effects and was not sure that it made a difference. You really need two boats with identical sails to test the real effects of this mod. I would like to do it but have had the same delema.
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Kate
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Don Alexander
De lema
It is french for of the wing. Do you want one or do you need one. ok delema (sp) aka dilemma
It is french for of the wing. Do you want one or do you need one. ok delema (sp) aka dilemma
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Sam Lust
It's just not that tough!
Calling in the so called "professionals" is not the method of choice for those of us who assume true ownership of our vessels. How many cast iron keels do you think the average yard ape has drilled holes into? For that matter, how many of the Mercury Marine engine mechanics you'll find in the yard can figure out what a keel IS? Drilling cast iron is not that difficult. Moderate to low speed, properly sharpened drill bit, in this case a fairly long one, good cutting oil, and as someone already mentioned, a durable, and hopefully, light weight drill - you'll be holding it for quite some time. The magnetic base drill is not a bad idea, although it might not be able to hold to the rough surface very well. If that washes out a simple guide used properly can do the job. All it has to do is show the angle(s) at which the drill must go in. As far as tapping the holes? Sounds tempting. whack in a hole an inch or so deep, spin a tap into it and voila!Below the water line, and in an application like this I think it would make me nervous. Through-bolting always works well. One thing to keepp in mind is that extreme precision will certainly not be required here. In my recollection of the process epoxy adhesive is sandwiched in between the pieces so the bolts won't be alone in supporting the weight. If you end up a wee bit off things can be "adjusted" to fit. (The stuff they don't show you on This old house or Home time!) And speaking of weight, when the time comes to lift it into place, don't call me, I'll be otherwise engaged!
Calling in the so called "professionals" is not the method of choice for those of us who assume true ownership of our vessels. How many cast iron keels do you think the average yard ape has drilled holes into? For that matter, how many of the Mercury Marine engine mechanics you'll find in the yard can figure out what a keel IS? Drilling cast iron is not that difficult. Moderate to low speed, properly sharpened drill bit, in this case a fairly long one, good cutting oil, and as someone already mentioned, a durable, and hopefully, light weight drill - you'll be holding it for quite some time. The magnetic base drill is not a bad idea, although it might not be able to hold to the rough surface very well. If that washes out a simple guide used properly can do the job. All it has to do is show the angle(s) at which the drill must go in. As far as tapping the holes? Sounds tempting. whack in a hole an inch or so deep, spin a tap into it and voila!Below the water line, and in an application like this I think it would make me nervous. Through-bolting always works well. One thing to keepp in mind is that extreme precision will certainly not be required here. In my recollection of the process epoxy adhesive is sandwiched in between the pieces so the bolts won't be alone in supporting the weight. If you end up a wee bit off things can be "adjusted" to fit. (The stuff they don't show you on This old house or Home time!) And speaking of weight, when the time comes to lift it into place, don't call me, I'll be otherwise engaged!
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Craig
I talked to my metal man
I called my metal man. He is the most talented guy i know. his background is sheet metal for about 30yrs. He now builds streetrods from the ground up. I gave him a 1933 buick original car and i got it back with a 455 buick, ac, pw, ps pb cdplayer power seats, independent front on and on. He built the radiator himself with stainless tanks and sewed all of the carpets and interior also. he paints to perfection too. this guy is amazing. anyway he says the cast isnt all that difficult to drill. he has a drill for me to use and says it will spin me around like a whirlybird if it gets caught. two handles. i love it. i am now very interested and see the bulbs under my christmas tree. sam lust will haul them in from the garage. craig
I called my metal man. He is the most talented guy i know. his background is sheet metal for about 30yrs. He now builds streetrods from the ground up. I gave him a 1933 buick original car and i got it back with a 455 buick, ac, pw, ps pb cdplayer power seats, independent front on and on. He built the radiator himself with stainless tanks and sewed all of the carpets and interior also. he paints to perfection too. this guy is amazing. anyway he says the cast isnt all that difficult to drill. he has a drill for me to use and says it will spin me around like a whirlybird if it gets caught. two handles. i love it. i am now very interested and see the bulbs under my christmas tree. sam lust will haul them in from the garage. craig
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Sam Lust
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