I have just broken two Marlone ball valves on my 1994 Catalina. I have never had a problem before this year. Questions: Does the Marlone deteriorate? Has anyone replaced with bronze or stainless? I keep my boat in fresh water so corrosion is not a big problem. Other than corrosion is there a nother problem with replacing with a metal vs. Marlone? Anyone else break these? Mike
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Fred Ficarra
Mine are fine, after 16years.
I greased them once last year. I don't think they can be over tightend but then you didn't say what part broke.
I greased them once last year. I don't think they can be over tightend but then you didn't say what part broke.
I don't care for them.
Mike: A friend of mine has a C'34 with the Marelon valves and I do not care for the feel when opening and closing the valves. We have had bronze ball valves on our H'31 for about 12 years and they still work like new. Our boat is in fresh or mostly fresh water year round. There is not that much difference in price so I would go with whatever makes you feel comfortable.
Mike: A friend of mine has a C'34 with the Marelon valves and I do not care for the feel when opening and closing the valves. We have had bronze ball valves on our H'31 for about 12 years and they still work like new. Our boat is in fresh or mostly fresh water year round. There is not that much difference in price so I would go with whatever makes you feel comfortable.
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Brad
Broken valves
I just had the handle break off of my engine water intake valve on my 1994. I had noticed that it was turning hard last year so I made sure it was greased well before launching last spring. It did not make a big difference on how well it turned this spring. About 2 weeks ago I turned the handle and it turned really easy and then I had the handle in my hand. It looked like the plastic handle itself had broken where the handle joined the ball valve. After I had hauled the boat last week I discovered that the valve itself was well lubed with only some sea weed in the valve. So either there was an obstruction in the valve itself-possibly a zebra muscle- or the valve may have collected moisture over the winter and froze and hence it weakened the handle. I went to the neighborhood West Marine store and purchased another valve. Of course the top of the valve was not the exact size of the old one. But they did carry an adapting piece so I could reinstall my strainer. I know that my thru hull is in a place where it will not get hit or bumped. I believe the plastic just fatigued over time. I think 10 years is not too bad for a plastic valve. Fortunately it staye din the open position when it broke off so I didn't have to tear everything apart while in the water. If you install metal you still have to lube the valve. Good luck either way you decide.
I just had the handle break off of my engine water intake valve on my 1994. I had noticed that it was turning hard last year so I made sure it was greased well before launching last spring. It did not make a big difference on how well it turned this spring. About 2 weeks ago I turned the handle and it turned really easy and then I had the handle in my hand. It looked like the plastic handle itself had broken where the handle joined the ball valve. After I had hauled the boat last week I discovered that the valve itself was well lubed with only some sea weed in the valve. So either there was an obstruction in the valve itself-possibly a zebra muscle- or the valve may have collected moisture over the winter and froze and hence it weakened the handle. I went to the neighborhood West Marine store and purchased another valve. Of course the top of the valve was not the exact size of the old one. But they did carry an adapting piece so I could reinstall my strainer. I know that my thru hull is in a place where it will not get hit or bumped. I believe the plastic just fatigued over time. I think 10 years is not too bad for a plastic valve. Fortunately it staye din the open position when it broke off so I didn't have to tear everything apart while in the water. If you install metal you still have to lube the valve. Good luck either way you decide.
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Jim Wolfgram
An opinion
My bias is twards the Marelon product. I get piece of mind knowing that this is an area where I don't have to worry about electrolis problems. On my previous boat, I was in a slip that was picking up transient current from somewhere (suspect a local liveaboard). I know it wasn't my boat, I never hooked up on shore power, went batteries off when out of the boat, batteries out in the winter. In that location, I was burning through two zinks per 3 months on the shaft. It took me a while to get moved, and the problem abated after moving. During that time, I was concerned about the thruholes and seacocks, knowing that the boat I had did not have a good bonding system. With the Marelon, it is one less item to worry about. Additionally, I believe Don Casey's book gives them a pretty good recommendation. just a thought
My bias is twards the Marelon product. I get piece of mind knowing that this is an area where I don't have to worry about electrolis problems. On my previous boat, I was in a slip that was picking up transient current from somewhere (suspect a local liveaboard). I know it wasn't my boat, I never hooked up on shore power, went batteries off when out of the boat, batteries out in the winter. In that location, I was burning through two zinks per 3 months on the shaft. It took me a while to get moved, and the problem abated after moving. During that time, I was concerned about the thruholes and seacocks, knowing that the boat I had did not have a good bonding system. With the Marelon, it is one less item to worry about. Additionally, I believe Don Casey's book gives them a pretty good recommendation. just a thought
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Tom S.
Mike, What broke? The handles or the whole ball
valve? I think Forespar had a older design on the handles and have since redesigned them. I would call them, I think you can get a kit to fix and upgrade them.
valve? I think Forespar had a older design on the handles and have since redesigned them. I would call them, I think you can get a kit to fix and upgrade them.
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S. Sauer
Marlon Handles
I've had bad experiences with two Marlon ball valves and feel that they can be tightened in such a way that they bind the ball, then the handle breaks. Since then, I've used only bronze with a stainless ball in a teflon seat. I also use two zincs on my prop shaft and check them every month for stray current electrolysis, as protection for my folding prop.
I've had bad experiences with two Marlon ball valves and feel that they can be tightened in such a way that they bind the ball, then the handle breaks. Since then, I've used only bronze with a stainless ball in a teflon seat. I also use two zincs on my prop shaft and check them every month for stray current electrolysis, as protection for my folding prop.
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