Manual sanitation pump outlet

[DinghySailor]

Greetings,
The PO of our C&C supplied a new, uninstalled Whale Mk5 manual sanitation pump. The installation instructions and diagram on the box appear to disagree in where the outlet hose should terminate.

• Instructions: “the outlet pipe should be terminated at a skin fitting well above the waterline”
• Box diagram shows the outlet terminating via seacock below the waterline.

The diagram loosely matches the arrangement in the boat, and I'd of course prefer to have it terminate via thru-hull seacock.

I fully understand that I'll need to install an anti-siphon device in the hose above the waterline. Just seeking confirmation that the diagram method is acceptable for this pump. Whale is not responding to email or calls.

 

[dlochner]

I think the fitting your are referring to is actually the vent to the holding tank.

Operationally, the seacock and the diverter valve need to be operated. The sea cock opened and the diverter switched to then pump inlet. The seacock could remain open, however, if the pump bellows should develop a leak water will pour in through the pump.

Be sure to install the pump in the correct orientation or you will be pumping seawater into the tank.

 

[DinghySailor]

The instructions for bulkhead mounting are specific to the “outlet pipe” not a tank vent. Thanks for the reminder on mounting and operation.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I fully understand that I'll need to install an anti-siphon device in the hose above the waterline

The anti-siphon device should be a vented loop that needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT MAX HEEL, not just when the boat is at rest. On most sailboats that puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl. The discharge thru-hull can be above or below the waterline...below is not only more considerate of others seeing it, but eliminates brown streaks on the hull below it.
You should also have a vented loop in the intake--NOT in the intake line, but between the pump and the bowl, which requires replacing the short piece of hose the toilet mfr used to connect them with enough hose put it at the same height as the discharge thru-hull. This one is needed on any manual toilet whether flushing overboard or only into a tank, to prevent sea water OUTSIDE the boat from seeking its own level INSIDE the boat via the toilet intake line, which can easily happen if the thru-hull is open and the toilet is left in wet mode.

--Peggie

 

[DinghySailor]

Thanks Peg, et al. Project complete. New lines throughout with vented loop, Y-valve, and Whale pump properly positioned (finally). Amazed at the amount of waste line needed—about 30’. Planning on routine treatments with Sew Clean, but nice to have easy access to pump for servicing. Happy not having to worry about a macerator

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Weekly 1-cup doses of distilled white vinegar flushed all the way to the tank will prevent mineral buildup...a 12-15% dilution of muriatic acid--available from any decent hardware store-- will remove it for a lot less $ than Sew-Clean. Flush all the way to the tank...follow with plenty of clean fresh water after 45-60 minutes. May require more than one application if buildup really serious.

--Peggie

 

[DinghySailor]

Thx. Already have the Sew, but good info.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Prevention is almost always cheaper and easier than cure...weekly doses of distilled white vinegar--just a cupful, 2 cups at most-- will reduce the need for SewClean (or muriatic acid) considerably.

--Peggie

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

The seacock could remain open, however, if the pump bellows should develop a leak water will pour in through the pump.
The seacock should always be closed except when actually in use to dump the tank, no matter what type of discharge pump. Macerator pumps can only slow incoming water, they cannot block it completely.

--Peggie

 

[DinghySailor]

water will pour in through the pump.
The seacock should always be closed except when actually in use to dump the tank.

--Peggie

Copy that!