The teak and holly are turning to topsoil and humus--I'm falling into the bilges through my H40's rotten floor. But...big pieces of cardboard taped together as templates, traced onto practice sheets of 3/4 plywood which I then cut with a little jig saw (the new teak/holly stuff is 360$/sheet) don't seem to do the trick. The practice panels don't fit well, the corners aren't sharp to the fiberglas. Has anyone done this job? Can you give me some pointers before I destroy the good sheets? Thanks. Scott Haig
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Just a thought
Have you contacted Hunter. You might be able to purchase new pre-cut floor boards from them for a reasonable added price to what you will pay for the raw teak and holly plywood. PAT
Have you contacted Hunter. You might be able to purchase new pre-cut floor boards from them for a reasonable added price to what you will pay for the raw teak and holly plywood. PAT
Floorboard thoughts
I have never been able to cut a straight line with a hand jig saw. you can get a table saw for about a hundred bucks, maybe less if you find a used one or borrow one. Either way you can make nice straight cuts and sharp corners. One approach is leave about an eigth of an inch and check it then cut to fit taking a hair at a time. Another trick might be to get a belt sander and do the final fitting by sanding the edges. The belt sander will take stock off pretty quickly and allow you to control the final fit
I have never been able to cut a straight line with a hand jig saw. you can get a table saw for about a hundred bucks, maybe less if you find a used one or borrow one. Either way you can make nice straight cuts and sharp corners. One approach is leave about an eigth of an inch and check it then cut to fit taking a hair at a time. Another trick might be to get a belt sander and do the final fitting by sanding the edges. The belt sander will take stock off pretty quickly and allow you to control the final fit
Router?
If the old pieces are solid enough you can use a router with a flush trim bit. Simply clamp the old and new together and cut new piece to match old piece. The bearing on the end of the bit rides along the edge of the old piece giving you a near perfect cut. Use a high quality carbide bit with a roller bearing; not a cheap Black and Decker. However, be aware that any defects in the old piece (broken corners etc.) will be transfered to th new piece unless they are first repaired.
If the old pieces are solid enough you can use a router with a flush trim bit. Simply clamp the old and new together and cut new piece to match old piece. The bearing on the end of the bit rides along the edge of the old piece giving you a near perfect cut. Use a high quality carbide bit with a roller bearing; not a cheap Black and Decker. However, be aware that any defects in the old piece (broken corners etc.) will be transfered to th new piece unless they are first repaired.
Teak and Holly
Being a retired contractor and basiclly a carpenter,I would leave the trade to the tradesmen. Do what you do well.There are a lot of things to be known before attemting this sort of a project.Dont forget you have to install edging on all the pieces or youwill go nuts. Sounds like a Rube Golberg project to me.After 45 yre at it, I would not try it without the proper tools,a jig saw is for circumsizing black people.I hope no one takes that as a predgudical remark,that is a term used throughout the industry.A jig saw is like tits on a broom stick
Being a retired contractor and basiclly a carpenter,I would leave the trade to the tradesmen. Do what you do well.There are a lot of things to be known before attemting this sort of a project.Dont forget you have to install edging on all the pieces or youwill go nuts. Sounds like a Rube Golberg project to me.After 45 yre at it, I would not try it without the proper tools,a jig saw is for circumsizing black people.I hope no one takes that as a predgudical remark,that is a term used throughout the industry.A jig saw is like tits on a broom stick
Yes we are offended
Tommy Let me be the first of many to take you to task. Your remark regarding the use of jigsaws for elective surgery was not only in very poor taste but supports a sense of bigotry that is no longer tolerated in our society. Simply because it is a common term among a small group of people is no excuse. It is wrong and you should have known better than to share it with the board. Regarding cutting new floor board, I agree with the post regarding using a router and pattern bit. It will enable you to exactly match the shape of the exiting floor. Some notes: 1. Use a router that takes ½” bits (not ¼”) The router should be at least 2 hp and variable speed. You need to slow down the router for these types of cuts (should cost approximately $250) 2. Use a large diameter bit for the best cut. Whitestone make a great carbide bit with an 1-1.5” diameter. (Used this to put a radius on a 1” thick mahogany table I built, cut like butter) 3. You will need to fill in the edges of your pattern (old flooring) where they are damaged. Drywall spackel works well and dries fast. ANY defects on the edge will show up. 4. Be sure to clamp the pattern and new floor securely to prevent movement. RREgge S/V Allie Kat
Tommy Let me be the first of many to take you to task. Your remark regarding the use of jigsaws for elective surgery was not only in very poor taste but supports a sense of bigotry that is no longer tolerated in our society. Simply because it is a common term among a small group of people is no excuse. It is wrong and you should have known better than to share it with the board. Regarding cutting new floor board, I agree with the post regarding using a router and pattern bit. It will enable you to exactly match the shape of the exiting floor. Some notes: 1. Use a router that takes ½” bits (not ¼”) The router should be at least 2 hp and variable speed. You need to slow down the router for these types of cuts (should cost approximately $250) 2. Use a large diameter bit for the best cut. Whitestone make a great carbide bit with an 1-1.5” diameter. (Used this to put a radius on a 1” thick mahogany table I built, cut like butter) 3. You will need to fill in the edges of your pattern (old flooring) where they are damaged. Drywall spackel works well and dries fast. ANY defects on the edge will show up. 4. Be sure to clamp the pattern and new floor securely to prevent movement. RREgge S/V Allie Kat
Cut cost......
you can rent a good router for about $10 to $30 a day. You will still have to buy the bit, but now you can afford to buy a better quilty bit with the savings. Good Luck, Bob S/V Lady Di II
you can rent a good router for about $10 to $30 a day. You will still have to buy the bit, but now you can afford to buy a better quilty bit with the savings. Good Luck, Bob S/V Lady Di II
been there done that
scott, I had to do the same thing to my hunter. First thing I did was contact hunter about a replancement floor. After I recovered I decided on the plywood. But regardless of wood you go with this technique will work. I had only a circular saw and a block plane for tools. Like you I made a template. I used file folders taped together. This allowed me to get close fit using an exacto knife. I transfered the pattern to the plywood. I cut the plywood 1/8 inch bigger than the template. The trick was to set my saw blade to a 45 degree angle. This way when I dropped the wood in place there was less wood butting up to the floor edge and less wood to trim. A couple passes with a block plane and the plywood fits like a glove. Ted
scott, I had to do the same thing to my hunter. First thing I did was contact hunter about a replancement floor. After I recovered I decided on the plywood. But regardless of wood you go with this technique will work. I had only a circular saw and a block plane for tools. Like you I made a template. I used file folders taped together. This allowed me to get close fit using an exacto knife. I transfered the pattern to the plywood. I cut the plywood 1/8 inch bigger than the template. The trick was to set my saw blade to a 45 degree angle. This way when I dropped the wood in place there was less wood butting up to the floor edge and less wood to trim. A couple passes with a block plane and the plywood fits like a glove. Ted
just did mine
I have a Hunter 27, 1982, the glue gave up along the ply edges and the teak trim, dropped off, one pc 36"Wx34"L, second pc. 28&1/4"Wx 34"L, a 3/4"x 48"x96" Finished oak ply sheet at home depot=$47.00, including the cutting, 2 yds of fine weave glass cloth= $12.65, resen and hardener I had, acetone @ H.D.=$7.00, 3 brushes $3.20, I also had 2 8" dia. locking roud hatches, after the pc's fit, I used a candle around the edges 2" wide, and around the hatch hole, soaked the bottom and edge surface with resin 15% acetone, and hardener, then laid the glass down, positioned it with staples, and glassed the bottom and all edges, when dried, removed excess glass, and wax, stained and varnished the top surfaceand installed theittle access hatch, no holly stripes both for under $70.00, I used the access hatches for viewing, I secured both boards to the floor with s/s wood screws. good luck
I have a Hunter 27, 1982, the glue gave up along the ply edges and the teak trim, dropped off, one pc 36"Wx34"L, second pc. 28&1/4"Wx 34"L, a 3/4"x 48"x96" Finished oak ply sheet at home depot=$47.00, including the cutting, 2 yds of fine weave glass cloth= $12.65, resen and hardener I had, acetone @ H.D.=$7.00, 3 brushes $3.20, I also had 2 8" dia. locking roud hatches, after the pc's fit, I used a candle around the edges 2" wide, and around the hatch hole, soaked the bottom and edge surface with resin 15% acetone, and hardener, then laid the glass down, positioned it with staples, and glassed the bottom and all edges, when dried, removed excess glass, and wax, stained and varnished the top surfaceand installed theittle access hatch, no holly stripes both for under $70.00, I used the access hatches for viewing, I secured both boards to the floor with s/s wood screws. good luck
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