Making it simple
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I leave all my stays connected save the forestay which I later attach with the same press button quick pin as Cayguy has pictured.
I also use a Johnson Handy-Lock on my backstay but on my O'Day 222 which has a Z-Spar mast, I needed to move my open turnbuckle up on my back stay and install the Johnson Handy-Lock right under it. Otherwise I would not be able to remove the backstay from the mast head at the end of the season.
At any rate, with a back stay adjuster to loosen the forestay to be able to connect and disconnect it, you never need to mess with the side stay turnbuckles on the O'Day 222.
I also use a Johnson Handy-Lock on my backstay but on my O'Day 222 which has a Z-Spar mast, I needed to move my open turnbuckle up on my back stay and install the Johnson Handy-Lock right under it. Otherwise I would not be able to remove the backstay from the mast head at the end of the season.
At any rate, with a back stay adjuster to loosen the forestay to be able to connect and disconnect it, you never need to mess with the side stay turnbuckles on the O'Day 222.
Finally got some pics, sorry it took so long. The handy lever will only work at the bottom of the backstay. It would work better if I shortened the bottom end however. It has three pin holes, and if I cut off the two end ones and smoothed it, it would leave more adjustability in the turnbuckle.
The lower turnbuckle T-stud looks bent, as seen in the pics. I know some of these have a curve in them at the T for some reason I dont fully understand, if thats normal then I will accept it. But it also has a bend perpendicularly to that curve. Sorry the pick is fuzzy, but you can clearly see it is not straight, and I think it should be replaced. Do I use a straight one, or a curved one?
The lower turnbuckle T-stud looks bent, as seen in the pics. I know some of these have a curve in them at the T for some reason I dont fully understand, if thats normal then I will accept it. But it also has a bend perpendicularly to that curve. Sorry the pick is fuzzy, but you can clearly see it is not straight, and I think it should be replaced. Do I use a straight one, or a curved one?
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Oh, and I found a spare toggle pin I can put at the bottom of the back stay. I only need to find one for the headstay.
Ours doesn't (normally) have a backstay. For normal trailering I just disconnect the forestay, the sidestays don't get disconnected or touched. We currently raise the mast with the jib halyard, and it can be tensioned enough to attach the forestay. So we don't need a quick-release or tensioner. We still use cotter-pins and rings. (Yes we keep spares)
I've bent my share of turnbuckles. In our case, the sidestay turnbuckles connect to U-bolts on the deck, and the turnbuckle fork will often jam on them. Proper chainplates would fix that; for now we just bungee the turnbuckles vertical while raising.
If the turnbuckle is only slightly bent, it's probably still stronger than the shroud wire and you can keep using it. I have...
Most industrial rigging shops can make up or shorten SS stays using SS thimbles and hydraulically-pressed sleeves. Ugly but cheap and reliable. (Just like me.
) I had one new end done for $10.
I've bent my share of turnbuckles. In our case, the sidestay turnbuckles connect to U-bolts on the deck, and the turnbuckle fork will often jam on them. Proper chainplates would fix that; for now we just bungee the turnbuckles vertical while raising.
If the turnbuckle is only slightly bent, it's probably still stronger than the shroud wire and you can keep using it. I have...
Most industrial rigging shops can make up or shorten SS stays using SS thimbles and hydraulically-pressed sleeves. Ugly but cheap and reliable. (Just like me.
) I had one new end done for $10.
Its not the turnbuckle thats bent, its the "T" stud. I believe it was originally curved, but it is also bent perpendicularly and I cant believe it came that way.
I don't think the T stud is supposed to be bent, but you do see a lot of them that are. It normally happens when the mast is going up and the T-shackle-pin get jammed and can't swivel. I bent three in one day on my old trailer sailor..Much easier to do than you'd imagine. Replace it, they are pretty cheap and readily available .. some are left threads and some right.. I always carried a couple of spares when I had that boat.
EDIT: That one is not too bad to use as a spare, but do check the threads in the bent area for cracking before keeping it.
EDIT: That one is not too bad to use as a spare, but do check the threads in the bent area for cracking before keeping it.
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Thanks Kloudie, thats what ill do then. But they are cheap so ill buy two and have a spare. Probably a few toggle pins, and maybe a swageless coupler or two to shorten the stays a tad.
On the subject of cable ends, I currently have 1/8 inch stays. Is that adequate cable for this boat should I want to cruise the coastline or wander out a ways someday? May not happen, might get a bigger boat, but if I start buying parts I may as well by what I need/want to begin with.
On the subject of cable ends, I currently have 1/8 inch stays. Is that adequate cable for this boat should I want to cruise the coastline or wander out a ways someday? May not happen, might get a bigger boat, but if I start buying parts I may as well by what I need/want to begin with.
That size rope in stainless has a breaking strength of about 1800 pounds.I would suspect that O'Day did some engineering and the size is adequate.. The righting moment of the boat is actually what loads the shrouds.. more righting moment ;wide body, lots of keel weight= more righting moment and larger wire size. I have never seen a shroud wire fail from overload..I have seen a bunch failed from corrosion, bending, fatigue, and general abuse.. obviously, things like preload, shroud mounting footprint and spreader geometry affect loading as well, but on a typical rig, the wire size is mostly determined by the hull's righting moment
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