I seek the wisdom of all those that have gone before me. I think that most would agree that nothing looks better than an older boat with its teak rich with color and a deep gloss finish. But how do you keep it that way? I have a 1982 Catalina 30. Last season I stripped the boat of all the teak, took it home sanded, varnished 6 coats(both sides)replaced it and 8 months later its peeled. I used Z-spar varnish. Is there a longer lasting product or a way to touch up the areas where the finish has lifted. Would appreciate any guidence in this matter. Thanks, Joe
- Status
I seek the wisdom of all those that have gone before me. I think that most would agree that nothing looks better than an older boat with its teak rich with color and a deep gloss finish. But how do you keep it that way? I have a 1982 Catalina 30. Last season I stripped the boat of all the teak, took it home sanded, varnished 6 coats(both sides)replaced it and 8 months later its peeled. I used Z-spar varnish. Is there a longer lasting product or a way to touch up the areas where the finish has lifted. Would appreciate any guidence in this matter. Thanks, Joe
Rub
with Acetone before finishing. This takes the surface oils off allowing the varnish to adhere somewhat better. The only other tip is that the teak MUST be clean before the Acetone and finish. Best of luck -- Paul
with Acetone before finishing. This takes the surface oils off allowing the varnish to adhere somewhat better. The only other tip is that the teak MUST be clean before the Acetone and finish. Best of luck -- Paul
Rub
with Acetone before finishing. This takes the surface oils off allowing the varnish to adhere somewhat better. The only other tip is that the teak MUST be clean before the Acetone and finish. Best of luck -- Paul
with Acetone before finishing. This takes the surface oils off allowing the varnish to adhere somewhat better. The only other tip is that the teak MUST be clean before the Acetone and finish. Best of luck -- Paul
For the loce of CETOL
I have a 1986 Bayfield with more teak on the outside anyone can ask for. From the previuos owner i inherited it in a gray state of neglect. It took a lot of sanding and cleaning. When this was done, I brightened the teak with acid based teak cleaner (of your choice), than thoroughly rinsed it with fresh water and dipped my good quality paint brush in Cetol Marine. I painted a total of 3 coats with at least a day aloowed for drying. You cant paint when it is dump outside and have to make sure all wood is really dry between coats (no morning dew). So far it is been 2 years and I did not have to touch it. Incidently, Cetol does not peel, so if you want to "frreshen it up", just sand it a lightly and put on another coat. Hope this helps.
I have a 1986 Bayfield with more teak on the outside anyone can ask for. From the previuos owner i inherited it in a gray state of neglect. It took a lot of sanding and cleaning. When this was done, I brightened the teak with acid based teak cleaner (of your choice), than thoroughly rinsed it with fresh water and dipped my good quality paint brush in Cetol Marine. I painted a total of 3 coats with at least a day aloowed for drying. You cant paint when it is dump outside and have to make sure all wood is really dry between coats (no morning dew). So far it is been 2 years and I did not have to touch it. Incidently, Cetol does not peel, so if you want to "frreshen it up", just sand it a lightly and put on another coat. Hope this helps.
For the love of CETOL
I have a 1986 Bayfield with more teak on the outside anyone can ask for. From the previuos owner i inherited it in a gray state of neglect. It took a lot of sanding and cleaning. When this was done, I brightened the teak with acid based teak cleaner (of your choice), than thoroughly rinsed it with fresh water and dipped my good quality paint brush in Cetol Marine. I painted a total of 3 coats with at least a day aloowed for drying. You cant paint when it is dump outside and have to make sure all wood is really dry between coats (no morning dew). So far it is been 2 years and I did not have to touch it. Incidently, Cetol does not peel, so if you want to "frreshen it up", just sand it a lightly and put on another coat. Hope this helps.
I have a 1986 Bayfield with more teak on the outside anyone can ask for. From the previuos owner i inherited it in a gray state of neglect. It took a lot of sanding and cleaning. When this was done, I brightened the teak with acid based teak cleaner (of your choice), than thoroughly rinsed it with fresh water and dipped my good quality paint brush in Cetol Marine. I painted a total of 3 coats with at least a day aloowed for drying. You cant paint when it is dump outside and have to make sure all wood is really dry between coats (no morning dew). So far it is been 2 years and I did not have to touch it. Incidently, Cetol does not peel, so if you want to "frreshen it up", just sand it a lightly and put on another coat. Hope this helps.
Teak Oil
I have the same problem with my teak. I gave up on the varnish game. I swear it is a conspiracy to sell varnish. In the end, it's a losing game...no matter how much you prep clean and varnish, the elements will eventually win. Clean the teak with a diluted 2 part cleaner. Rinse and rinse again. Allow the wood to dry out and then apply the oil. It is best to do 3 coats but allow it to sink in and absorb before putting the second and third coat. The oil drys out over time so put another coat on every 3rd week. It may seem like alot of work but varnishing and sanding it off every year is worse. Have Fun!
I have the same problem with my teak. I gave up on the varnish game. I swear it is a conspiracy to sell varnish. In the end, it's a losing game...no matter how much you prep clean and varnish, the elements will eventually win. Clean the teak with a diluted 2 part cleaner. Rinse and rinse again. Allow the wood to dry out and then apply the oil. It is best to do 3 coats but allow it to sink in and absorb before putting the second and third coat. The oil drys out over time so put another coat on every 3rd week. It may seem like alot of work but varnishing and sanding it off every year is worse. Have Fun!
Cetol is Wonderful!
Don't have a lot of teak, thank God. Sanding and varnishing lasted 4 or 5 months in the hot sun of Galveston Bay. Then I sanded and used 4 coats of Cetol over a year ago, and it still looks great. Unlike some folks, I even like the color. Jon McClain
Don't have a lot of teak, thank God. Sanding and varnishing lasted 4 or 5 months in the hot sun of Galveston Bay. Then I sanded and used 4 coats of Cetol over a year ago, and it still looks great. Unlike some folks, I even like the color. Jon McClain
Varnishing Teak
Joe, I have used Cetol and varnish over the years on different boats and personally, I like the look of varnish better. The Cetol holds up well but I didn’t care for the orange tone even though I used the light variety. When I varnish teak I sand the teak first and then rinse with water and let dry thoroughly. Don’t use a solvent after you sand as it will soak into the teak and prevent the varnish from soaking into the teak. The first coat I dilute 50/50 with thinner, the second coat 75/25, and then straight varnish for the next four coats. Lightly sand between coats with a fine grit sandpaper like a 220 grit. I know it is a little more work, but I think it is definitely worth the results and it lasts.
Joe, I have used Cetol and varnish over the years on different boats and personally, I like the look of varnish better. The Cetol holds up well but I didn’t care for the orange tone even though I used the light variety. When I varnish teak I sand the teak first and then rinse with water and let dry thoroughly. Don’t use a solvent after you sand as it will soak into the teak and prevent the varnish from soaking into the teak. The first coat I dilute 50/50 with thinner, the second coat 75/25, and then straight varnish for the next four coats. Lightly sand between coats with a fine grit sandpaper like a 220 grit. I know it is a little more work, but I think it is definitely worth the results and it lasts.
varmish looks better, takes more
My previous owner did a wonderful job and the brightwork looked great. Three elements: 1. He put from 10 to 12 coats on all exposed surfaces; 2. He did a quick coat touch-up every three to four months. (This could be stretched or eliminated by covers over exposed brightwork) 3. He never let it get away from him. (I did, and regret it.) I've looked and and discussed options to varnish, but did not like the results. If you want the gem-like look, it takes lots of varnish and work. I'm still debating with myself over what to do next... Good luck.
My previous owner did a wonderful job and the brightwork looked great. Three elements: 1. He put from 10 to 12 coats on all exposed surfaces; 2. He did a quick coat touch-up every three to four months. (This could be stretched or eliminated by covers over exposed brightwork) 3. He never let it get away from him. (I did, and regret it.) I've looked and and discussed options to varnish, but did not like the results. If you want the gem-like look, it takes lots of varnish and work. I'm still debating with myself over what to do next... Good luck.
Cetol
If you follow the directions and put on three coats, Cetol will last at least two years. It is the toughest stuff available.
If you follow the directions and put on three coats, Cetol will last at least two years. It is the toughest stuff available.
WEST system 205-207 special hardner
I have very little brightwork on my boat, my tiller, and the hatch rails. I coated them with WEST System 205 resin and 207 special hardner. This is the same stuff I used on my cedarstrip canoe. I then covered this with spar varnish. The sailboat and canoe are exposed to the elements year round, and the brightwork only requires a light sand and revarnish every three or four years. The spar varnish is to UV protect the epoxy which will otherwise cloud if not protected. The 207 special hardner is formulated to dry super clear, so I have used it on my sailboat brightwork, and even though it is a costly solution, it only has to be done once, with a 20 minute light sand and touch up every few years with a $10 can of spar varnish. That I can handle!
I have very little brightwork on my boat, my tiller, and the hatch rails. I coated them with WEST System 205 resin and 207 special hardner. This is the same stuff I used on my cedarstrip canoe. I then covered this with spar varnish. The sailboat and canoe are exposed to the elements year round, and the brightwork only requires a light sand and revarnish every three or four years. The spar varnish is to UV protect the epoxy which will otherwise cloud if not protected. The 207 special hardner is formulated to dry super clear, so I have used it on my sailboat brightwork, and even though it is a costly solution, it only has to be done once, with a 20 minute light sand and touch up every few years with a $10 can of spar varnish. That I can handle!
- Status