The endstops on my '89 Hunter 35 Schaefer mainsheet traveler are literally falling apart (chunks falling off) and Schaefer's website offers replacement units. Although Schaefer say that the 1- 1/2" track was used after 1988, Hunter must have been using up old stock when they built my boat in 1989, because my track is only 1-1/4" wide. The 1- 1/2" endstops units are $24 each and the almost identical (old style) 1- 1/4" endstops are $50 each!! Go figure. Being of Scottish blood, my inclination is to use the much less expensive 1- 1/2" endstops units and a little epoxy to fill the gap between the endstop jaw and the 1- 1/4" rail to stop them "rattling" on this smaller track! Its really only a nice little molding to stop the car from banging on the big retaining screw that does all the real structural work! Anyone know of a good reason why this money saving will not work well?
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Call Schaefer...
..they can custom grind them for you. They did for me on my '88 L37. You may have to remove the traveller to replace them. Contact me thru this site if you go that route.
..they can custom grind them for you. They did for me on my '88 L37. You may have to remove the traveller to replace them. Contact me thru this site if you go that route.
me to
I have a 1989 30 and I have the same problem with my schaefer traveler, last Monday I removed the port end stop and it crumbled apart. Please let me know how this works out for you, I will need to do the same this winter. Good luck.
I have a 1989 30 and I have the same problem with my schaefer traveler, last Monday I removed the port end stop and it crumbled apart. Please let me know how this works out for you, I will need to do the same this winter. Good luck.
Did a couple of months ago
I did this a couple of months ago on my H29.5 w/ the traveler at the helm...what a mess.....In my case the end bolt that holds the traveler end on the endstop snapped off. Since I had to replace the bolt I figured that the endstops were in pretty bad shap so I would replace them too....well, removing the track was a nightmare. It took me almost the entire day. Not one bolt thru the track would back out. I had to drill everyone. I make this job easier in the future, I thru bolted every bolt with washers and locking nuts thru the backing plate.
I did this a couple of months ago on my H29.5 w/ the traveler at the helm...what a mess.....In my case the end bolt that holds the traveler end on the endstop snapped off. Since I had to replace the bolt I figured that the endstops were in pretty bad shap so I would replace them too....well, removing the track was a nightmare. It took me almost the entire day. Not one bolt thru the track would back out. I had to drill everyone. I make this job easier in the future, I thru bolted every bolt with washers and locking nuts thru the backing plate.
endstops.....
these things are pretty cheap from defender.com. They mount at the end of the track and are not adjustable. The adjustable ones are stainless, pretty pricey and probably unnecessary for your application. http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|118&id=312064&start=31&results=10&sort=products Hmmm... I just took a look at your link and realized you have the old high rise type track. You might give Minney's a call in SoCal.. they are a salvage place...and they may have those parts. Or you might try fabricating something out of hardwood. Or just get the basic adjustable stainless trackstop and clamp it on the rail... If it was me I'd try the block method first, basing it on the original plastic design. You can use the same bolt.
these things are pretty cheap from defender.com. They mount at the end of the track and are not adjustable. The adjustable ones are stainless, pretty pricey and probably unnecessary for your application. http://www.defender.com/category.jsp?path=-1|118&id=312064&start=31&results=10&sort=products Hmmm... I just took a look at your link and realized you have the old high rise type track. You might give Minney's a call in SoCal.. they are a salvage place...and they may have those parts. Or you might try fabricating something out of hardwood. Or just get the basic adjustable stainless trackstop and clamp it on the rail... If it was me I'd try the block method first, basing it on the original plastic design. You can use the same bolt.
Low Cost Schaefer Endstops
I was stunned by the low cost ($4.0) Schaefer 1- 1/4" endstops that Joe identified. The difference seems to be that the ones that I now have fitted are much taller and also wrap around the sides of the rail...... while the ones from Defender have sides that are flush with the rail and would need some sort of pedestal fabricated to bring the unit up to the right height on my boat. I am tempted by this idea and need to mull over my options! The rail seems to be an "I" section - like a structural steel beam. Do the effective heights of these traveler rails vary as well as the widths? I am also concerned about the suggestion that I might also have to remove the track to replace the endstop. I had assumed that I would only need to remove the one large set screw that runs vertically though the endstop and it would then be free. Any comments?
I was stunned by the low cost ($4.0) Schaefer 1- 1/4" endstops that Joe identified. The difference seems to be that the ones that I now have fitted are much taller and also wrap around the sides of the rail...... while the ones from Defender have sides that are flush with the rail and would need some sort of pedestal fabricated to bring the unit up to the right height on my boat. I am tempted by this idea and need to mull over my options! The rail seems to be an "I" section - like a structural steel beam. Do the effective heights of these traveler rails vary as well as the widths? I am also concerned about the suggestion that I might also have to remove the track to replace the endstop. I had assumed that I would only need to remove the one large set screw that runs vertically though the endstop and it would then be free. Any comments?
Low Cost Schaefer Endstops
I was stunned by the low cost ($4.0) Schaefer 1- 1/4" endstops that Joe identified. The difference seems to be that the ones that I now have fitted are much taller and also wrap around the sides of the rail...... while the ones from Defender have sides that are flush with the rail and would need some sort of pedestal fabricated to bring the unit up to the right height on my boat. I am tempted by this idea and need to mull over my options! The rail seems to be an "I" section - like a structural steel beam. Do the effective heights of these traveler rails vary as well as the widths? I am also concerned about the suggestion that I might also have to remove the track to replace the endstop. I had assumed that I would only need to remove the one large set screw that runs vertically though the endstop and it would then be free. Any comments?
I was stunned by the low cost ($4.0) Schaefer 1- 1/4" endstops that Joe identified. The difference seems to be that the ones that I now have fitted are much taller and also wrap around the sides of the rail...... while the ones from Defender have sides that are flush with the rail and would need some sort of pedestal fabricated to bring the unit up to the right height on my boat. I am tempted by this idea and need to mull over my options! The rail seems to be an "I" section - like a structural steel beam. Do the effective heights of these traveler rails vary as well as the widths? I am also concerned about the suggestion that I might also have to remove the track to replace the endstop. I had assumed that I would only need to remove the one large set screw that runs vertically though the endstop and it would then be free. Any comments?
Removing the screw
I knew replacing teh screw that lost its head was go8ing to be difficult....but I had no idea backing out the other screws would cause each and every screw to twist the head right off. Hopefully yours will back right out for you and you'll be done...I never seem to have that kind of luck.
I knew replacing teh screw that lost its head was go8ing to be difficult....but I had no idea backing out the other screws would cause each and every screw to twist the head right off. Hopefully yours will back right out for you and you'll be done...I never seem to have that kind of luck.
Not What You Want
What Niel mentions in his post are SS stops that are used on the Genoa Tracks. From what you are describing the stops are hard, compressed, black rubber endcaps that are on each end of the traveller.
What Niel mentions in his post are SS stops that are used on the Genoa Tracks. From what you are describing the stops are hard, compressed, black rubber endcaps that are on each end of the traveller.
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